Jump to content
SAU Community

R32 gtr won't boost past 9psi


BoostisBliss
 Share

Recommended Posts

  • 2 weeks later...

Try another manual boost controler
Off a car that you know boosts fine just to test.

The only thing a broken or blocked T will do is over boost past the presently set limit.

It musnt be bleeding or restricting the flow as the waste gates see what they need to open and should see less to raise boost.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Try another manual boost controler
Off a car that you know boosts fine just to test.

The only thing a broken or blocked T will do is over boost past the presently set limit.

It musnt be bleeding or restricting the flow as the waste gates see what they need to open and should see less to raise boost.
Your right about this it happened to my evo9 a few years back, ball got fused to the spring somehow and it made infinite boost scared the crap outta me, probably hit 40 psi on a WOT pull before I noticed. And yes i have set it up backwards and it just makes infinite boost like the wastegates are staying closed. I'm really confused about why this is happening. Not a huge deal and honestly it's probably a good thing until I can afford to rebuild my oem stockies to r34 spec with the steel impellers or some other reasonable turbos, I'd rather them underboost then overboost. I was only planning on running 10 to 11psi anyhow because of how easily I blew up my stock turbos after hitting 18psi on highway wot. Very strange though and kinda annoying me a bit but maybe it's the turbo gods trying to save me from blowing up my motor lol. The car is not in mint condition and I'm sure it had a rough 85k miles before I got my hands around the steering wheel. I think I'm going to tear down the whole vacuum line setup and set it up again. I've always had more luck the 2nd and 3rd time around with fixing things. I just changed the oil and put in mobile1 10w30 but have been reading that alot of people run a much thicker oil. Do you guys run 10w40/50/60 in your cars? I've seen weights all over the place. But 10w30 seems like a bad decision. Lmk thanks for all the support fellas!!!!
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yep stockies wont last over 12psi very long. But 12psi is better than 9psi.
Good luck.

The oil numbers are the opperating temperature of the oil and are relative to its thickness.
The higher the first number the thicker it usualy is. Which isn't what you want with turbos.
The higher the second number the more temps the oil can handle opperating at.


I use 10 w 40 semi syn.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yep stockies wont last over 12psi very long. But 12psi is better than 9psi.
Good luck.

The oil numbers are the opperating temperature of the oil and are relative to its thickness.
The higher the first number the thicker it usualy is. Which isn't what you want with turbos.
The higher the second number the more temps the oil can handle opperating at.


I use 10 w 40 semi syn.


I did it. I'm not sure what exactly I did but I ran a larger guage vacuum line connector to my pressure source and took the MBC apart, cleaned it with solvent and bam. I also mounted it in a more direct location. I'm happy to report that my car is happily making 12 psi all the way to redline with the slightest spike to 13 when really nailing it. I might turn it down slightly but man does 4 psi make a difference! I'm f**king pumped lol. The first thing I tried was removing the ball and spring from the MBC but that was just making infinite boost but after the above procedure the turbo gods are smiling down on me. Thanks for the advice. Now to start saving for an ecu and big boy turbskis.20190316_185045.jpeg
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The two diagrams are equivalent. The R32 one is just one sheet out of about 3 showing everything in the whole car all at once. And without knowing the functionality that occurs in the modules, they are both equally opaque.
    • 8v - 2.48ms 9v - 2.15ms 10v - 1.74ms 11v - 1.41ms 12v - 1.15ms 13v - 0.99ms 14v - 0.89ms 15v - 0.82ms 16v - 0.81ms I'm running these values on my RB20 Neo with 570cc Denso R35 stock jets and it's great. Also bought a set for my Legnum VR4, love these injectors!
    • Thanks for your reply,  Those blue/green wires running to the actuator aren't attached to anything, so I'm not sure how the central locking is still working. I will have to take a good look tomorrow, I don't have the car with me. After googling it seems like a pretty common aftermarket actuator which even uses the same green/blue wires the immobiliser required. i'll test everything tomorrow and if it's working i'll melt the solder, strip it, resolder and neaten it all up with some heat shrink. I don't have to understand it if it works hahaha I just don't want a fire/ short circuit. That R32 diagram looks more like a continuity chart? Can you make sense of this form the R34 manual? 10V is probably due to very flat battery, i'll recheck as well tomorrow, I did have to jump start it haha. Thanks again!  
    • So, COM doesn't mean comms. It means common. What common itself means will depend on the type of device. For a two directional actuator (ie, one that can push and pull on the same output rod) then the common will typically just be the earth connection. There will be at least 2 other wires. If you put 12V on one of the other wires, then the actuator will push. On the other 12V wire, it will pull. Can't quite make out what is going on with the wiring of your actuator. It appears to have several wires at the actuator plug, but there only appears to be 2 wires where its loom approaches the door control module, with at least one of the others cut off. I don't know these actuators off by heart. I'd have to look at a wiring diagram for one before knowing what the wires were about, and that's despite me having to replace one in my car not all that long ago. Just not interesting enough to have dedicated memory set aside for trivia like that any more. That actuator is an aftermarket one, not the original one, which probably died and was replaced. That might require some sort of bodge job on wiring to make it work. Although nothing should justify the bodginess of the bodge job done. As to the soldering job on the door module's loom plug. Ahhahhahaha. Yes, very nasty. Again, I cant tell you what any of those wires do. You'd need to study the R34 wiring diagram (if you can find one that shows the door module). I don't think I have any. I'd have to study the R32 diagram to start to understand what mine is doing, and again, even though I've had a problem with mine for the last 25 years (where it locks the passenger door when the driver's window reaches top or bottom of travel) I'm just not interested enough to try to to work it out. So long as it's not burning down, it's fine with me. Here's the R32 GTR diagram, which, confusingly, has rear door lock actuators and window motors on it!! As you can see, unless you understand the functions of the door lock timer and the power window amplifier, you'll never be able to work out how it works just from the diagram. I don't imagine that the R34 one is any better. Hopefully an R34 aware bod can help. FWIW, the two wires that are cut and joined look like they are both power supply - so hopefully it is not fatal to join them. The 10V you measured on the cut off free end of one of them is concerning. You'd expect 12V, and it might be the reason for the bodge job joining them together.
×
×
  • Create New...