Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

18 hours ago, tridentt150v said:

So...is it on the road yet?

 

2 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

But does your car even work? Lol

Oi! I can start the car and move it out of the garage :P

 

But in all seriousness, the price of new Nissan coils are much cheaper than when I bought the Yellowjackets, so better off going for them. I think I got lucky with them, they held up fine at track days. But I haven't driven my car hard in a long time. Ignition is probably breaking down and I'm not noticing it haha. My car is also standard engine (standard ECU and ceramic turbos), so if you plan on running more turbo pressure, listen to these lot.

 

tl;dr buy Splitfire or genuine, unless you are poor and/or desperate.

  • Like 1
21 hours ago, TheKenso said:

Cant leave the car running when u have to get the kid from kindergarden, somone migtj be jelly.

 

 

Focus! Do the test properly. Start the car from cold when you don't have a kid to pick up 5 minutes later and drive it until it has fully warmed up. If the fault does not happen then you know it needs a new sensor. If it does happen you have not spent a lot of time and money eliminating a possible cause.

On 3/22/2019 at 10:17 AM, KiwiRS4T said:

Focus! Do the test properly. Start the car from cold when you don't have a kid to pick up 5 minutes later and drive it until it has fully warmed up. If the fault does not happen then you know it needs a new sensor. If it does happen you have not spent a lot of time and money eliminating a possible cause.

Was the lambda that caused the isues, chabhed it and the isue resolved itself, still have som missfire isues at hige rpm, but stock coils do the same so think my harnes migth be bad.

 

55 minutes ago, TheKenso said:

Was the lambda that caused the isues, chabhed it and the isue resolved itself, still have som missfire isues at hige rpm, but stock coils do the same so think my harnes migth be bad.

 

What is the lambda? You mean o2 sensor?

21 minutes ago, Ben C34 said:

Oh ok. That's like calling a dyno a horsepower but words are weird! Where are you? Not in Aus?

He's in Norway.

Highly doubt the O2 sensor was the cause of your problems.. What gap are you running on your plugs (or sparks as you call them over there)?

9 hours ago, KiwiRS4T said:

He's in Norway.

Highly doubt the O2 sensor was the cause of your problems.. What gap are you running on your plugs (or sparks as you call them over there)?

We call them spark plugs ?

after i changed out the o2 sensor the car started acring bormal exept for the missfire at hige rpm and full throtle

 

running 0.8mm on a bitt colde rplugs then original, dont remeber more then they are NGK, shoud be mlre then enouf for a stock engien as far as i know.

 

10 hours ago, Ben C34 said:

Oh ok. That's like calling a dyno a horsepower but words are weird! Where are you? Not in Aus?

Yhea im from norway ?

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This was a huge help.  We followed the steps,  although shifting into 2nd was actually into 3rd for us,  and 1st was into 2nd ( steps 9 and 11) .  The long flash was the 4th flash.  So shift solenoid A is possibly the culprit.  Is this inside the transmission itself? Or is it accessible by just front the pan? Or is it bolted to the outside of the transmission?  Thanos for your help everyone
    • Can you enlighten me on your best practice regarding these hoses? I don't wanna make the same mistake if you already got a better solution.
    • I have some silicon hoses already, for example engine to watercooler. But yeah, I get the sentiment. The lower intercooler silicon hose is drippy too, despite not being very old. Does anyone except Nismo make these same lines out of rubber? Long term I think they'd be the better replacement, especially since the car won't live as hard a life anymore as in the past nor be driven as often.
    • I know most issues are just age related. But for example the turbo oil drains, there is dash adapters for these and you can just make a braided teflon line for them and (probably) never have them leak again. Also not terribly expensive. Can you even get the factory hardlines from new? Or are they repairable if they break?
    • I know it'd be much much easier with the tool. I hope I can find one that won't take 3 weeks to get to me an isn't a "Asian models kit" that has tons of (to me) useless adapters for a load of cash.   It's a summer project/fun car. I do wanna enjoy it, without endless downtime over and over. So yeah I would even go and buy an engine crane + stand to save myself the trouble of hard to reach or unreachable places going bad later on. Would also be a good opportunity to put on a Fluidamper, renew the mains seals and stuff like that. I have some money on the side that I can use for that, what I wouldn't want to or be able to do is let everything be done by a shop or have my engine completely rebuild right now. I intend to do most of the "doable" jobs myself. Pulling an engine can't be that hard, can it?
×
×
  • Create New...