Long time listener first time caller ER34

[TKUSHI_ER34]

Hello everybody ☺️

 

First time skyline owner, but owned plenty of other imports e.g GTIR, 180sx, s13,1jz Cressida. 

Finally after years of wanting one I purchased a basic ER34 4 door RB25det NEO auto. Funnily enough I’ve been around SAU for almost 10 years ago when I purchased my first car (4age ke70)  from back in the day hanging out at fountain plaza in erina on a Thursday night with some old school members. Haha

since moved to Melbourne a few years ago. 

The new car is going great but I do have a few little questions and issues that I want to resolve ASAP. 

1. My oil temp seems to be quite high (actually unsure tbh) I took this picture this morning after my 25min commute up the Monash, I purposely tried to keep it out of boost to see how the temp ended up.  Just wondering if that is normal or nah? Water temp seems fine. Unsure of cars history I grabbed some nulon full synthetic 10w40 and a filter to see if any changes occur 

 

2. The second issue I have so far is the car pops on hard acceleration as in WOT, being around RB’s enough I’m well aware of the coil packs and loom being an issue. Will eventually order spitfires. I changed the plugs the other day and gapped to 1.1 car is only running stock boost and solenoid. Grabbed a fuel filter this morning and will change that tonight as well while I wait for the new pump I ordered to arrive. 

 

 

Glad to be here and finally call myself a skyline owner 

 

cheers Lucas 

[TKUSHI_ER34]

Should probably post some photos of the car hahaha *idiot* 

-1998 r34 sedan 

-3inch xforce catback 

-turbo smart dual port recirculating BOV 

-cusco zero coilovers 

-some no name brand 17’s haha 

[GTSBoy]

If that oil temp gauge is correct, then, yes it is a bit hot.  Mine runs just over 90°C (real, on an aftermarket gauge), which is very similar to the water thermostat temp.  Given that the oil and water exchange with each other under the oil filter, that's to be expected.  It only gets as hot as your photo shows when crawling along in traffic and it is 40+°C outside.  Your gauge or sender could be crook, so it might be nothing.  Well worth investigating though.  You would most easily do that by hooking up something temporary.  You could also put the factory sender into some near boiling water and see what it and the gauge say.  The service manual should have info on what the sender resistance and voltage should be at various temperatures.  (Read that to say that I'm not going to be bothered looking it up at this point).

If it is popping and carrying on, the ignition timing could be retarded, which would also cause it to run hot.  You'd expect the coolant to get hot too, but the problem with factory water temp gauges is that they have an enormous deadband in the centre.  The real temp can vary wildly and the gauge won't move, to stop the feebleminded from panicing - OMG! It's getting too hot!

it would be worth putting the car onto a dyno with a Consult hooked up and just looking at what timing it's running, water temp, etc etc.  Could do that on the road with 2 people, but dyno makes it easier and safer plus you can put a timing light on it at the same time and see whether the CAS is set right.

[TKUSHI_ER34]

Alrighty, so just got done with the fuel filter, wanted to do it earlier but didn’t finish work till 11pm. 

 

The crap that was inside the fuel filter is atrocious, put the new one in and fired it up, took the car for a drive and gave her a hiding and didn’t miss once *winning* 

will do the oil change over the weekend, and see if this 10w40 full synth makes any difference to oil Temps and oil pressure. If not I’ll go from there and work something out

Thanks for the info GTSBOY, I’ll speak to my tuner and get the ball rolling ☺️

 

 

[Slap]

Lean pop hey!

Thatl heat shid up![emoji3455][emoji95]

Do you have a wideband o2?
Any more mods you missed?

If it pops some more maybe close the plug gap a lil more.

I run .07~.08 it helped me when i had my spark blowing out at 17psi (stock ecu)
^
????????????????
Mwahahahahaha. Cause i did!

[Steve85]

20 hours ago, TKUSHI_ER34 said:

post some photos of the car

This is literally all i come here to say to people. You beat me to it!!!
Congrats on your 34. It looks sweet.

[TKUSHI_ER34]

So still getting a little bit of popping, which I have no realised the car looks as though it’s overboosting. Looked up how the stock boost gauge works and mine goes to Max every time. 

Everything is stock boost related. So unsure what could be causing it (should be running stock boost). 

 

Top vac line is going to intake pipe, bottom hose going to factory T piece 

Bottom vac line going to wastegate 

middle hose going to compressor housing.. how is it making so much boost of this stock setup? 

 

As mentioned mods are turbosmart BOV

3inch xforce catback, which I have just realised they have gutted the cat as well. Other then that this thing is dead stock engine wise 

 

any ideas? Done heaps of searching but everyone seems to be modified when having this issue. Not completely stock like mine 

 

scared to get on boost because i don’t want to break a turbo wheel or possibly Lean this thing out 

 

cheers everyone ☺️☺️

[GTSBoy]

The standard mod for standard GTRs was to remove a little restrictor from one of the boost hoses.  Instant 14 psi IIRC.  Shouldn't qualify as "overboost" but should be enough to max the gauge.  It's also easily enough boost to show up a weak ignition system.

[niZmO_Man]

Gapped your spark plugs to 0.8mm?

[TKUSHI_ER34]

1 hour ago, GTSBoy said:

The standard mod for standard GTRs was to remove a little restrictor from one of the boost hoses.  Instant 14 psi IIRC.  Shouldn't qualify as "overboost" but should be enough to max the gauge.  It's also easily enough boost to show up a weak ignition system.

Yeah I’ve heard of that trick as well which could be the issue. Just spoke to a mate of mine who works for race pace and he said to take off my heat shield and make sure the actuator push rod  isn’t getting stuck or fouled. 

Will gap my plugs down again tonight and see how she’s goes. 

Someone said get it tuned, but I don’t want to do that until I can afford to buy a manifold for the 3076 GTX I have, and obviously buy injectors/nistune. Would like to do the tune once when I have all the supporting parts ready 

 

cheers for the help guys ????

Edited March 29, 2019 by TKUSHI_ER34

[Slap]

I dont know the gtr vac lines stock setup but why does the t piece have top one to inlet, mid to turbo outlet and bottom to wastegate.

I would have thought it needs only one signal feed and used 2 internal waste gate actuators.

[Ben C34]

42 minutes ago, Slap said:

I dont know the gtr vac lines stock setup but why does the t piece have top one to inlet, mid to turbo outlet and bottom to wastegate.

I would have thought it needs only one signal feed and used 2 internal waste gate actuators.

That first picture is a bleed valve, the top line goes back to the in front of the turbo, between AFM and turbos, so as to not bleed air to atmosphere (which is not ok from an emissions point of view). 

[Slap]

Ok kool. Do they use a restrictor type bleed valve stock?
I thought when he said intake he ment post turbo.
Couldnt he get stock boost just goin feed to actuator and bypassing the bleed valve?

[GTSBoy]

24 minutes ago, Slap said:

Do they use a restrictor type bleed valve stock?

All bleed valves are restrictor based.  You need a restriction to give the controlled bleed amount.  Solenoid valves in these systems are either

• simple on-off (Nissan stockers are this) and they change between no bleed and bleed through the restrictor, or
• pulse controlled, making the solenoid a variable restriction in its own right and therefore the restrictor in the bleed.

This all ignores what happens with multiport solenoids and multi-solenoid setups.

[Slap]

Ok kool. Do they use a restrictor type bleed valve stock?
I thought when he said intake he ment post turbo.
Couldnt he get stock boost just goin feed to actuator and bypassing the bleed valve?

??

Still unanswered.

[GTSBoy]

9 minutes ago, Slap said:

Still unanswered.

Um, no.  The bleed valve is STOCK.  That's how you get stock boost.  But in order for it to be stock stock boost, and not the "ahem, secret squirrel stock boost that Mr Nissan actually wanted the cars to have but the gentlemen's agreement limiting them to 206kW meant they had to cripple it stock boost", it also has to have the little restrictor that they hid inside one of the vacuum hoses.  That is usually the first thing that any GTR owner found and removed, because it gave back the power the car was meant to have but wasn't "allowed" to.

Nothing you see in those photos is not as per Mr. Nissan's design, except the possible absence of that restrictor.

[Ben C34]

54 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

simple on-off (Nissan stockers are this) and they change between no bleed and bleed through the restrictor, or

 

32 minutes ago, Slap said:

 

 

[Slap]

"Couldnt he get stock boost just goin feed to actuator and bypassing the bleed valve?"

??

[Ben C34]

36 minutes ago, Slap said:

"Couldnt he get stock boost just goin feed to actuator and bypassing the bleed valve?"

??

No. Because the bleed valve is part of th e stock boost setup. Which gets the turbos to boost to stock boost. Which incorporates a bleed off of the wastegates.

[Slap]

What psi are the waste gates set to stock?

 

Why cant they run a non bled line?