Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Guys, 

What is going on?

Newbie here, check out my post on the Newbie Introductions page. 

So guys I am building this r33 I bought site unseen off the interwebs. The guy told me it has an issue starting amongst other issues.

I will be posting regular updates on here and also posting videos on YouTube of my build progress. 

The first issue I will be tackling is the starting issue, I think it may be electrical or fuel related. 

what do you think the issue could be. Post your comments below. 

Talk soon all

 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/476616-dans-r33-build/
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

Hey Guys, 

Update battery is all charged but having an issue turning it over. It cranks but wont turn over. Got it to turn over Twice but any acceleration and it will die.

I suspect dud battery or alternator.  

Uploaded a video for you guys!

Thoughts?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/476616-dans-r33-build/#findComment-7904814
Share on other sites

Videos not working for me.

Your terminology is confusing.typically cranking and turning over mean the same thing. 

You mean it's not starting?but the engine turns over when cranking?or is the engine locked up.? It won't be the alternator, thy does nothing except for charge the batery

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/476616-dans-r33-build/#findComment-7904832
Share on other sites

Hey, not sure why the videos aren't working. I'll post on YouTube too. Yeah not starting just keeps cranking but wont start. engine is not locked up. thought it may be battery so installed a new one. would start but very lumpy then cut out.

Tried again, started lumpy revved to 4000rpm saw oil pressure gauge on dash rise and battery light on dash turn off. Stalled at 1000rpm

Battery light is lit on dashboard, pointing me to alternator. 

Will try and put a multimeter on the alternator and battery and check. Hopefully it will stay alive long enough. 

Any help would be great. 

 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/476616-dans-r33-build/#findComment-7904834
Share on other sites

Update. Forgot to mention, A couple of weeks ago when the car was sitting I started it and found that the car when idling was fluctuating in revs between 650 to 1000rpm. If anyone can piece together all this information for a diagnosis that would be handy. 

Thanks!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/476616-dans-r33-build/#findComment-7905049
Share on other sites

Hey Ben, 

Yeah, running a Wolf EMS 3D V4, no airflow meter. Strange car was running fine, then had this idle problem, one week later won't start. annoying. 

Changed the battery, cause battery light was lit and other one was old, running a bit low. 

I notice that the oil pressure light is also lit on the dash, got it started once over the last two weeks, ran like a lawnmower, coughing and spluttering. Gave it a bit of rev to 4000rpm battery light and oil pressure light went off but as rev's decreased car stalled. 

Thanks

D

Edited by blitzer31
added more info
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/476616-dans-r33-build/#findComment-7905054
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

Hi All, 

Thought I would post an update. Car has been moved to my apartment where I have been doing some more work in it. 

Completed the following. 

  • Replaced bonnet
  • Replaced drivers side door lock actuator
  • Installed boot carpet and trim
  • Replaced a few bits of interior trim
  • Wired in front bumper indicators
  • Started sanding side skirts, boot, bonnet in prep for paint

To be completed

  • Tune - will be done at Sabbadin
  • Run new vacuum lines
  • Paint intercooler piping satin black
  • Install alarm system
  • Pain side skirts, boot, bonnet
  • Boot leaking
  • Weld boot floor pan (due to rust)
  • Replace exhaust
  • Custom air intake
  • RWC
  • Club Reg

Hopefully she will be on the road by Summer

Will keep you guys updated.

Dan

20190704_163221.jpg

20190704_163228.jpg

20190704_163241.jpg

20190704_163854.jpg

20190704_163917.jpg

20190704_163923.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/476616-dans-r33-build/#findComment-7910486
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I mean, if you were to move the jacking points away from the original location, that is, away from the wheels and closer to the centreline of the car, then it will be more likely to overbalance and tip off the supports. Same as we talked about before. I was talking about moving for-aft. If the sill is bent outward or inward, then the car would obviously look unstraight from the outside. Hopefully that hasn't happened either. Again, you can do comparative measurements from the chassis rails to see if there is much deflection.
    • Can you elaborate what you mean with your first sentence? I meant move as in the bulge kinda seemed like it got pulled "outward" meaning it got pulled down and to the side with the jacking rail itself, so the load bearing bulge now sits lower than usual and is not level with the sill on the other side of the jack point. Either that or the jacking rail just got pushed in a good bit.
    • As well as being risky WRT tipping off anyway. Yeah, I wouldn't expect it to move. Just measure from the rear one to the front one on the good side, then measure that same length on the wrecked side. You will find the notches in the pinchweld, and the jacking pad. Just spray a spot of marker paint or something there.
    • but any other area than the bulge you are talking about will just cave in then? The front driver side is pretty bent so I don't know if that will work the way it is now. I can still kinda make out where that bulge is/was but it looks like the position of it also changed due to all the mistreatment? Hard to tell
    • Absolutely. Look very closely at the photo (of yours) that I took my second snip of. See how the sill is thicker material right behind the pinchweld, where the two notches are? That is the factory reinforced area for lifting. That pad is supposed to carry the weight. The factory jack (go look at it, and how it interfaces with the car at the pinchweld) shows you exactly how the load is carried from the car to the jack to the ground.
×
×
  • Create New...