Jump to content
SAU Community

Head gasket? WTF


admS15
 Share

Recommended Posts

So i had an exhaust manifold leak. I decided to change the manifold the other day and this is what i found when i removed it. Cyl 6 exh port is totally clean, 5 is partially clean also.

 

IMG20190419153405.jpg

 

IMG20190419153420.jpg

 

So i thought head gasket and coolant is getting into cylinder and steam cleaning everything on the way out.

 

(I did also have an episode of the overflow bottle being filled at a track day a few months back, although after changing rad cap it didn't happen again at subsequent track days).

 

Anyway i made the decision to pull the head as i also need to have a couple studs that have broken easy outs in them removed and this is a good opportunity for 2 birds with one stone.

 

 

So head was removed this morning and everything looks perfectly normal including 5 and 6. WTF is going on here, what do you guys think? What has caused the clean exhaust port? If it was running that lean to look like that, I'd think that cylinder would have been toast.

 

 

Only other thing I can think of is that the exhaust manifold leak was in that area but i cant see it causing that.

 

Can anyone make sense of or seen anything like this before?

 

Pics

 

IMG20190421134347.jpg

 

IMG20190421134359.jpg

 

IMG20190421134531.jpg

 

IMG20190421134538.jpg

 

Edit.

 

I didn't get much time to properly look everything over but just looking at the pics i was uploading, the last 2 of the head have a residue on them, not sure if that was some oil that got on there as i pulled the head. Will have to have a closer look and report back.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Head studs back there could have been loose(r than the rest).

I want to agree with you but they where tight as if not tighter than the rest. The passenger side wouldn't budge and rounded the hex, there was some cursing and swearing while i contemplated ringing the thread doctor, then i remembered the torx bits i bought the other day. A T55 fitted snug in the rounded head and managed to get it out. The gods where looking over me. Thanks..

 

I would have thought if water was getting in the cyl, the top of the piston would be clean too.

 

The Nissan has been let out... The magic is gone. RIP

 

New oem gasket, arp studs, timing belt kit, water pump, seals etc are on order. Will drop the head off to a head shop for a skim, extract repair 2 butchered studs and a check over the rest and follow their recommendations. Hopefully i wont have to touch it again for ages.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Valve springs, valve stem seals too [emoji4]
How do the spark plugs look?
Sparkies look good, no variance in colour. All pretty clean. I have been thinking about springs and seals. Going to get the head shop to check them and advise. Still trying to keep it budget build but if they're sketchy ill get it done.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Pic 1 looks like a crack - or did that clean up?
Assuming you're talking about inside the exhaust port, i think that is how they are cast but i will have a better look at it again tomorrow and compare to the rest. Thanks kiwi[emoji106]
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Valve stem seals at the very least!
Valve springs can wait, since you're on stock cams and not silly boost you'll be ok!
I happen to have a set of new valve stem seals in the shed somewhere. Will most likely get done.
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Studs, yokes, washers where replaced not too long ago, except for the ones i couldn't get out. Yes it will be easier now the head is off but since its going to a shop, they can deal with it. The manifold that was on it, was warped badly. I have 2 spare straight ones to choose from.

Anyway, had a good look over everything today, dismantled the head. Cleaned the block surface. Old gasket looks to be in very good condition and there's no evidence of a path where coolant was getting in to the cylinder. Will see what the head shop says tomorrow.
@KiwiRS4T all the exhaust ports look like that, it's like the head is 2 pieces and pressed together although it's not. Lol

IMG20190422161315.jpgIMG20190422161322.jpgIMG20190422161330.jpgIMG20190422161336.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

28 minutes ago, admS15 said:

@Dose Pipe Sutututu are supertech valve stem seals better than oem. Couldn't find the ones i thought i had in the shed, i was looking for oem replacements but came across these.

My opinion is they're the same siet, I used OEM ones that came with my gasket kit. I would also use whatever cylinder head shops use too.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Head went to the shop today. Guy did a pretty detailed visual inspection, commented on how everything looked pretty good and each cylinder was running real nice.

He was thinking it was water that had cleaned the ports but was surprised when he couldn't find any evidence on the gasket and when i showed him the pics of the pistons, he ruled that out.

He's pretty confident the cause is air getting sucked back in from the exhaust manifold leak. That actually makes sense because they where the cylinders where it was leaking and warped.

He reckons the valve stems looked pretty good except for 1 which looked a bit greasy. The head is going to be stripped, cleaned, new valve seals fitted and valves reseated as well as the broken bolts extracted.

In the past someone's drilled one of the studs crooked and actually taken out a fair bit of alloy. That one is going to be filled and then redrilled straight again.

I rang Nissan to try and get some valve seals quickly, they quoted me $23 each, $500 plus for a set. I lol'd hard. Ordered the supertechs, once they arrive i should have the head back within a day or two. Rest of the parts should also be here by then and i can start the shitty process of putting it all back together.

To add insult to injury, i was having a good look at my turbo and the exh housing has developed multiple cracks, so that is getting sent to hypergear tomorrow to have a good 21u housing machined to fit. IMG20190420131949.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

20 minutes ago, admS15 said:

He's pretty confident the cause is air getting sucked back in from the exhaust manifold leak. That actually makes sense because they where the cylinders where it was leaking and warped.

You need to keep the foot down more.  Need boost to create +ve ex mani pressure to prevent those pesky air leaks.

  • Like 1
  • Haha 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The two diagrams are equivalent. The R32 one is just one sheet out of about 3 showing everything in the whole car all at once. And without knowing the functionality that occurs in the modules, they are both equally opaque.
    • 8v - 2.48ms 9v - 2.15ms 10v - 1.74ms 11v - 1.41ms 12v - 1.15ms 13v - 0.99ms 14v - 0.89ms 15v - 0.82ms 16v - 0.81ms I'm running these values on my RB20 Neo with 570cc Denso R35 stock jets and it's great. Also bought a set for my Legnum VR4, love these injectors!
    • Thanks for your reply,  Those blue/green wires running to the actuator aren't attached to anything, so I'm not sure how the central locking is still working. I will have to take a good look tomorrow, I don't have the car with me. After googling it seems like a pretty common aftermarket actuator which even uses the same green/blue wires the immobiliser required. i'll test everything tomorrow and if it's working i'll melt the solder, strip it, resolder and neaten it all up with some heat shrink. I don't have to understand it if it works hahaha I just don't want a fire/ short circuit. That R32 diagram looks more like a continuity chart? Can you make sense of this form the R34 manual? 10V is probably due to very flat battery, i'll recheck as well tomorrow, I did have to jump start it haha. Thanks again!  
    • So, COM doesn't mean comms. It means common. What common itself means will depend on the type of device. For a two directional actuator (ie, one that can push and pull on the same output rod) then the common will typically just be the earth connection. There will be at least 2 other wires. If you put 12V on one of the other wires, then the actuator will push. On the other 12V wire, it will pull. Can't quite make out what is going on with the wiring of your actuator. It appears to have several wires at the actuator plug, but there only appears to be 2 wires where its loom approaches the door control module, with at least one of the others cut off. I don't know these actuators off by heart. I'd have to look at a wiring diagram for one before knowing what the wires were about, and that's despite me having to replace one in my car not all that long ago. Just not interesting enough to have dedicated memory set aside for trivia like that any more. That actuator is an aftermarket one, not the original one, which probably died and was replaced. That might require some sort of bodge job on wiring to make it work. Although nothing should justify the bodginess of the bodge job done. As to the soldering job on the door module's loom plug. Ahhahhahaha. Yes, very nasty. Again, I cant tell you what any of those wires do. You'd need to study the R34 wiring diagram (if you can find one that shows the door module). I don't think I have any. I'd have to study the R32 diagram to start to understand what mine is doing, and again, even though I've had a problem with mine for the last 25 years (where it locks the passenger door when the driver's window reaches top or bottom of travel) I'm just not interested enough to try to to work it out. So long as it's not burning down, it's fine with me. Here's the R32 GTR diagram, which, confusingly, has rear door lock actuators and window motors on it!! As you can see, unless you understand the functions of the door lock timer and the power window amplifier, you'll never be able to work out how it works just from the diagram. I don't imagine that the R34 one is any better. Hopefully an R34 aware bod can help. FWIW, the two wires that are cut and joined look like they are both power supply - so hopefully it is not fatal to join them. The 10V you measured on the cut off free end of one of them is concerning. You'd expect 12V, and it might be the reason for the bodge job joining them together.
×
×
  • Create New...