GTR transfer case mod

[WantGTR]

Hi all.

What exactly does this entail? Is it a diy? If not who does this in nsw and how much will it set you back?

Afaik, you add/rearrange discs in the transfer case?

Drop your knowledge here!

Edited April 21, 2019 by WantGTR

[KiwiRS4T]

Method attached. I haven't done it myself just saved it from another member in case I should need it one day.

Transfer case rebuild or upgrade.doc

[WantGTR]

10 hours ago, KiwiRS4T said:

Method attached. I haven't done it myself just saved it from another member in case I should need it one day.

Transfer case rebuild or upgrade.doc 13.5 kB · 15 downloads

Thank you. 'File appears to be corrupted'  ??

Is there a pdf version? Sorry to be a pain

[KiwiRS4T]

Here is a PDF (hopefully)....

Transfer case rebuild or upgrade.pdf

[Duncan]

here's the thread where Bob reposted that last and the thread that came from

 

 

[BK]

Setting the final clutch pack clearance after plate modification is key and requires doing the plate mod in two steps. Too tight (under 0.2mm) and transfer will drag plates constantly and burn out. Too loose and obviously doesn't fully lock. Proper way to get clearance is to change the front retaining plate thickness (they come in 0.2mm increments from about 4.6 - 7.0mm), so it's not actually "shimming" like adding or removing extra shims to change a clearance.

My old man does them all the time and have noticed a few particular specific things you have to watch out for when doing them, as you can stuff it up fairly easily if you don't know what you're doing. Off the top of my head you need to:

-Setup with the plate clutch pack clearance MUST be done the with Attesa actuator installed. If not the clearance will end up too tight and basically lock transfer up permanently.

-final plate arrangement count can't change ie. has to always start with 5.0mm retaining pressure plate at rear and change clearance with front retaining plate at circlip AND

- excluding the 2 retaining plates has to always end up at combined metal and friction plate count of 19 (from standard 7 friction 12 metal arrangement to 10 friction 9 metal or anywhere in between that)

-plate at each end of the 19 MUST be a friction disc, that contacts each retaining plate

-metal plates have to be carefully reassembled to make sure they don't block oil feed holes into drum (which they can)

-presoak friction discs in ATF before reassembly to embed fluid into material. Can rip off friction disc plate material on new unused plates if not done.

-checking transfer oil pump sealing

[BK]

Some pics modifying a case. Note the final clutch pack clearance.

 

[fletch rb30]

Thanks to the great information above, i have got stuck into my own transfer case upgrade.

I am using an R32 case.

Using the R32 5mm rear plate, i notice the first friction plate will not reach the internal splines.  If i run the plate anyway as a spacer and then chuck in a steel and another friction, the 2nd friction is just off the end of the splines.

Has anybody had any issues with this? I worry that when the 4wd is engaged it will not line up with the splines and will strip the teeth off the friction.

Backing plate installed

1st friction

Any ideas?

Thanks

[BK]

Dont do anything that your talking about regarding spacing - you've just f**ked up 

On 22/04/2019 at 10:45 AM, BK said:

Setup with the plate clutch pack clearance MUST be done the with Attesa actuator installed. If not the clearance will end up too tight and basically lock transfer up permanently.

[BK]

So to elaborate you can't assemble the clutchpack drum outside of the transfer case, that's your problem. It's needs to be fully assembled including on the actuation side before you install any plates as stated above.

[fletch rb30]

On 04/01/2023 at 3:36 AM, BK said:

So to elaborate you can't assemble the clutchpack drum outside of the transfer case, that's your problem. It's needs to be fully assembled including on the actuation side before you install any plates as stated above.

Yes i aware of that. I had pulled it out of the case to try and see why the bottom friction was not engaging on the drum. You can see in the photos that its miles off. I was asking to see if anybody had the same issue as it was the same on the 32 and 33 drum i had.

I pulled it completely apart and found the clips that hold the thrust had fallen out and were stopping the inner hub from going all the way to the bottom of the basket. There was no mention of this in the manual that i could find.

I reassembled it and put a cable tie at the other end to keep the inner hub hard against the half washer clips until the front cover is installed. If it is pulled forward, the outer ring call fall off the half washers and stop the hub going all the way in