Jump to content
SAU Community

RB25DET Neo - bad smell after changing spark plugs


Recommended Posts

Hi all,

recently I changed my spark plugs. Went from heat range 6 to 7 as the previous ones were white (running too hot). Not sure why though, because the engine is stock. 

A days of driving later I noticed a bad smell coming from outside when the window is opened. Only while I drive over 60kmh. If the window is closed there is no smell at all, also not from the A/C. So my guess is that it's either because of the ignition or spark plugs.. or the catalyst. Or maybe both? From what I know is that defect spark plugs can damage the cat. On the other hand the car is running fine, no misfire, etc. Only that bad smell. 

Anyone had this before? Could it also be something else? 

Thanks!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Check nothing came unpluged or disconected when the plugs were done.
It doesnt take much.
A vacum leak, a disconected sensor or plug.

Doughtful but If the old plugs were shagged the long term trims may be out badly. If its a stock ecu do a hard wire reset to see if it helps.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks, I'm gonna have a look that everything is connected.
Could it also be caused by a boost leak? The turbo makes a high pitched sound when boosted but I'm not sure wether it's the old ceramic turbo or a leak. Also on my list of things to check. 

How about the fuel pump?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Arhg! I hope the turbine wheel isnt scraping the housing inlet. Turbo rebuild time if so and i wouldnt drive it like that..
Check if the turbine can pull back to the entry and see if its hitting.
A boost leak usualy causes richer than normal but still possible to throw shit out of wack.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Then that's the first thing I'm gonna do. Just to be sure. The boost noise is there since I bought the car a year ago. So I believe it's just the bearings or a leak. If hitting, then it would be long dead I guess. First time turbo removal for me, that's gonna be fun. 

After that: Check all connections, other leaks, sensor, catalyst, change fuel filter and maybe fuel pump.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You dont need to remove the turbo. Just the intake pipe to it. So you can see the turbine propeller. If the shaft moves to far toward the inlet where the pipe came off it can scrape.
You been on stock boost so it may last a year.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Turbo seems fine. No scraping, shaft play minimal up and down, not horziontal. In and out a very very little. Feels like 0.5 mm. But again, I can't make it scrap by hand. My guess is that the whining  noise is coming from the bearing or some boost leak. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That bolt loose shouldnt cause a boost leak. Maybe a zorst leak.... wich may cause the fuel ratios to be read wrong by the 02 sensor and changing the part throttle fuel trims.

 

On the bright side the turbine prop looks ok. Is that a bit of grease on the fins?

 

Bit of rubber hose is easy to replace dont stress. It may have been perished anyway.

 

Hmmmmm tighten up the bolt and see if it helps.

 

If that turbo is highflowed and on low boost it may be a bit loud from the waste gate working harder to keep boost down.

 

I have never heard of spark plug temps causing such an issue with smell. The way you described it. Could it be wiring? Just maybe load for the plugs is making things hot~???

 

Maybe someone will chime in soon that has had a similar issue

 

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sorry to be a sad sack but.

If a car is pinging badly on boost the noise can be high pitch (not a whistle but similar) and it will eat itself from the inside. If the plugs are white that means lean...lean on boost means pinging due to less timming , heat and pressure is needed to ignite and will have increased temps leading to detonation from heat induced pre ignition.

Id be checking the fuel filter , fuel pressure , flow and regulator.

Were any old plugs different color to the others?

There is so many things that can cause a lean condition and so many driving occasions that things can occur at.
Research a lot.
Asking doesnt always help.
If your mech or tech happy you should be fine to figure this out. Otherwise take it where it can be tested and diagnosed.

From... un metered air - undelivered fuel- incorrect timming.

Un metered air-
breathing post maf pre turbo, unpluged , dirty or dead maf.

Undelivered fuel-
pump (bad flow/dead), ecu(control/tune), injectors(dirty/loose conection/dead) , filter (blocked) ,sender (can cause bad flow not switching 9v idle-12v throttle), maf(dirty/dead/unpluged) ,fuel regulator(should rise 1-1 with boost),
O2 sensor(part throttle and boost transition lean condition)

Timing out-
Tune, incorrect maf/tps/cas sensor readings to ecu.

Ok thats all that i can think of right now that is a possibilty. Im sure theres more.

Goodluck.

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The two diagrams are equivalent. The R32 one is just one sheet out of about 3 showing everything in the whole car all at once. And without knowing the functionality that occurs in the modules, they are both equally opaque.
    • 8v - 2.48ms 9v - 2.15ms 10v - 1.74ms 11v - 1.41ms 12v - 1.15ms 13v - 0.99ms 14v - 0.89ms 15v - 0.82ms 16v - 0.81ms I'm running these values on my RB20 Neo with 570cc Denso R35 stock jets and it's great. Also bought a set for my Legnum VR4, love these injectors!
    • Thanks for your reply,  Those blue/green wires running to the actuator aren't attached to anything, so I'm not sure how the central locking is still working. I will have to take a good look tomorrow, I don't have the car with me. After googling it seems like a pretty common aftermarket actuator which even uses the same green/blue wires the immobiliser required. i'll test everything tomorrow and if it's working i'll melt the solder, strip it, resolder and neaten it all up with some heat shrink. I don't have to understand it if it works hahaha I just don't want a fire/ short circuit. That R32 diagram looks more like a continuity chart? Can you make sense of this form the R34 manual? 10V is probably due to very flat battery, i'll recheck as well tomorrow, I did have to jump start it haha. Thanks again!  
    • So, COM doesn't mean comms. It means common. What common itself means will depend on the type of device. For a two directional actuator (ie, one that can push and pull on the same output rod) then the common will typically just be the earth connection. There will be at least 2 other wires. If you put 12V on one of the other wires, then the actuator will push. On the other 12V wire, it will pull. Can't quite make out what is going on with the wiring of your actuator. It appears to have several wires at the actuator plug, but there only appears to be 2 wires where its loom approaches the door control module, with at least one of the others cut off. I don't know these actuators off by heart. I'd have to look at a wiring diagram for one before knowing what the wires were about, and that's despite me having to replace one in my car not all that long ago. Just not interesting enough to have dedicated memory set aside for trivia like that any more. That actuator is an aftermarket one, not the original one, which probably died and was replaced. That might require some sort of bodge job on wiring to make it work. Although nothing should justify the bodginess of the bodge job done. As to the soldering job on the door module's loom plug. Ahhahhahaha. Yes, very nasty. Again, I cant tell you what any of those wires do. You'd need to study the R34 wiring diagram (if you can find one that shows the door module). I don't think I have any. I'd have to study the R32 diagram to start to understand what mine is doing, and again, even though I've had a problem with mine for the last 25 years (where it locks the passenger door when the driver's window reaches top or bottom of travel) I'm just not interested enough to try to to work it out. So long as it's not burning down, it's fine with me. Here's the R32 GTR diagram, which, confusingly, has rear door lock actuators and window motors on it!! As you can see, unless you understand the functions of the door lock timer and the power window amplifier, you'll never be able to work out how it works just from the diagram. I don't imagine that the R34 one is any better. Hopefully an R34 aware bod can help. FWIW, the two wires that are cut and joined look like they are both power supply - so hopefully it is not fatal to join them. The 10V you measured on the cut off free end of one of them is concerning. You'd expect 12V, and it might be the reason for the bodge job joining them together.
×
×
  • Create New...