Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

As the title says iv been in the market for a manual r34 gtt coupe for a few months now. Watching how the market is going im seriously starting to consider buying an auto r34 gtt and then just paying for the conversion (and mechanic labout cost)

The price range between a manual and an auto is insane. Iv been tracking a fairly clean r34 GTT 2 door for a little bit around 14k, however if i wanted to buy a manual version of the car i would be looking at something around 19-20k 

Is that big of a price range practical or should i just buy a full conversion kit for around 1800 and pay a mecahnic to swap it for me?

The usual answer is "don't take it on unless you are able to do it yourself". Perhaps that's less so for gearbox conversions than turbo engine swaps, but it's been the usual advice.

However, where there are availability issues and the price difference is that wide, sure it's practical. I did it to my R32 many many many years ago.  It's not difficult, just need all the things and enough skills to make the wiring changes, etc.

If you can do it yourself sure, but you want to be sure of what you're getting in that particularly "Conversion Kit" because $1800 won't get you very far if you're buying all parts brand new.

So yes, but just be careful and mindful that extra costs can pop up, especially if you want to do everything 100%

The conversion cost is about ~1k-1500 for a mechanic to do if for you, so think closer to 3500-4K installed and running.

After that your only issue is the auto steering wheel, but you can always use the buttons to trigger something if you want to get fancy. It is worth doing if you find a really nice auto 34 that is unmolested or has the (other) modifications you are looking at.

There are quite a few conversion threads so go through them and make a list of all the things you will need - many conversion kits do not come with e.g. gear lever (c/w knob and boot) centre console, complete clutch including flywheel, clutch pedal and hydraulics, handbrake, speedo drive,  the list goes on so make sure you write everything down (it will be a long list) and compare it with what you get with the kit. Here they are asking 2,500 to 3,500 for a kit and then you don't always get all that you need. Most importantly make sure its a proper RB25 "big box".

I converted my C34 Stagea because manual ones were/are so rare but if I were you I would keep looking for a manual Skyline.

If you can find a decent auto, i say go for it. Mine was auto and i only coverted to manual 'cos it was time' but i see nothing wrong with going that way - as you say, can be a huge price difference when buying the car in the first place. My conversion kit was 1750aud and i wouldnt have spent anymore than that. By the time you buy a decent new clutch kit, 1piece clutch line, new cylinders etc, better off just getting tailshaft, box and pedals unless you get a cheap full conversion kit.

  • 2 years later...
On 5/8/2019 at 11:33 PM, KiwiRS4T said:

There are quite a few conversion threads so go through them and make a list of all the things you will need - many conversion kits do not come with e.g. gear lever (c/w knob and boot) centre console, complete clutch including flywheel, clutch pedal and hydraulics, handbrake, speedo drive,  the list goes on so make sure you write everything down (it will be a long list) and compare it with what you get with the kit. Here they are asking 2,500 to 3,500 for a kit and then you don't always get all that you need. Most importantly make sure its a proper RB25 "big box".

I converted my C34 Stagea because manual ones were/are so rare but if I were you I would keep looking for a manual Skyline.

Do you have links to said parts?  The problem with old forums is there are a bunch a broken links, missing pictures etc. 

On 7/10/2021 at 1:17 AM, walperstyle said:

Do you have links to said parts?  The problem with old forums is there are a bunch a broken links, missing pictures etc. 

I recently did a manual swap on my Stagea - here is the guide I used for that and a lot of it is the same for the skyline. Of course any mention of 4WD doesn't relate to you.

 

I also made a video of the process 

 

  • 4 weeks later...
On 7/10/2021 at 7:59 AM, mosquitocoils said:

I recently did a manual swap on my Stagea - here is the guide I used for that and a lot of it is the same for the skyline. Of course any mention of 4WD doesn't relate to you.

 

Question:   I have a R33 GTS-T RB25 automatic in my R34 GT-T.  I also have on the bench... a pull type AWD staega transmission with bad gears, AND a Z32 TT transmission in great shape.    Is it going to even be possible to swap bellhousings from the AWD pull type transmission over to the Z32 and achieve a manual swap?  A spec clutch just came up for grabs, still in package, but I don't know if I can even use it.

Edited by walperstyle

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I mean, I can confirm the TPS is at 100%.... I can confirm when we installed the TB and setup the cable that the TB was indeed fully open at max pedal travel.. the same 'curve' (WRT MAP vs MAP) existed with the previous setup/TB/manifold as well... No, we did not do a run with no intake connected. I would love to go back in time to do such a run to rule out the intake. It would have also been good to do a run with the airbox lid off. There's a test there where increased IAT vs more available air could be a positive tradeoff. I remember taking the lid off my R34 Turbo setup back in the day and noticing a monster increase, even if IAT's did go up. Could be similar. Hard to test unless I find a very deserted road. 
    • That's actually encouraging to be honest. my motor was rebuild many years ago but it's probably done less than 30,000kms and fucc all limiter or drift, majority street / drag / roll racing. It'll be fine 馃挭馃徏 I don't even have lines or a can for the cam breathers installed yet, there is zero oil residue or splatter on or around them, it drives beautifully so it seems healthy. Just a ticky lifter, yet they're almost brand new oem genuine Nissan and haven't done many kms at all...
    • Have you confirmed the throttle body goes to WOT (and stays there) during the run?
    • I'm having a problem. I think it was mentioned above somewhere but can't see it.  I'm stuck in the cycle of, sand, filler, low spot again, put filler, sand, low spot again, now i put filler again and a thicker portion which seems to have helped but I got low spots in other areas. In the image. Circled in red thats where the original low spot was and the shape is the same as the red out line. I've more or less fixed that (still low spot up the top but now I have low spots where the green circled part is.  Is likely the issue that I didn't start with a course sand paper? I sanded the filler with 240 to reduce the risk of not going to far but maybe the issue is that I'm only taking off enough material to remove some of the filler but not the high spots. I now started sanding with 120 and I think I'm seeing a difference. I did fix one dent the other 2 are f**ked and seems like I made another low spot which is indicated by the furthest green circle on the left handside. Any thoughts and solutions?   Also second image. All of these rock chips, can they be filled in with primer or do i need to fill them all with filler/putty? So many rock chips on mine lol.
    • Well, I had an Edward Lee's special edition odo windback car/motor with a RB25DET S2 and I put down 372kW with a good amount of track abuse for 1.5 years before the ring lands decided it didn't want to stick around anymore 馃ゲ But probably didn't help I kept on smashing try limiter on the track and a few skid pans.
  • Create New...