Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I know I know I know, this topic has been covered before, but not in enough detail I reckon. 

I have a crazy idea, grabbing all the turbo bits off the vq25det engine and whacking them on my vq35de. 

Some have said the turbo would be too small, but does that mean it just wouldn't make huge power or would actually just get blown to bits? And would a high flow turbo work better then?

I'm not interested in huge power, just a nice little boost up from stock. 

Seems silly to spend 10k on a turbo kit, when vq25det setups are right there... 

Tell me I'm dreaming 

The 25 turbo would be too small, I have turbos from my vq30dets and even those would be too small for a 35 and I would guess the 30 turbo is bigger than the 25.  You can get high flowed vq30det turbos though that are so called rated for 400hp on a 30.  Could still use the rest of the turbo exhaust piping.

Got a mate selling his HKS turbo kit with Stillen exhaust which should bolt up on a PM35. Nowhere near $10k.

 

VQ25det plenum has very small runner holes compared to the VQ35. Not even close to matching up.

An inline VH45de from a Fuga or something like the below would give you some grunt:

https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/nissan/engines/listing-2154613139.htm?rsqid=b1d4fc303ef64319b70facb103b34613-001

It's not just the turbo kit. I've done about 4 or 5 of the VQ35DE turbo conversions ranging from 240AWKW to 660RWKW. Your supporting mods will be just as expensive as a HKS turbo kit to do it properly. If you do it yourself you will save big $$$.

 

IMO the best bag for buck on the street if you want approx 200RWK on a VQ35DE is a firstly a very well sorted and flowing exhaust with H/F CAT's(use Z34 headers and cat's), a Z33 manual diff(3.538) for those of you with the PM35 only as the PNM is already 3.538, fuel pump and good catch can setup. With those mods you should be able to get 180-190RWKW with good plug and play ECU like a LINK.

If you want more for a street car a supercharger is your next best bet. The supporting mods to make it work well and get you reliability. power will be about 220 - 240RWK.

Once you go turbo its a major game changer as everything needs to be adapted especially if your in the PNM35.

P.S. I am only talking figures with 98 Octane fuel for the boosted setups as E85 is another setup and power change. IMO is you have $20K put an LSA in it and say goodbye

 

7 hours ago, NicPM35 said:

Latest plan: give wife the car and just buy a faster car. Problem solved. 

Good idea. I was going to suggest selling it and getting the best RS6 you could afford.

1 minute ago, KiwiRS4T said:

Good idea. I was going to suggest selling it and getting the best RS6 you could afford.

Oof $$$$. I'm looking at importing a jzx110, still not the best bang for buck, but hard to beat a nice 4 door 1jz!

2 hours ago, NicPM35 said:

Oof $$$$. I'm looking at importing a jzx110, still not the best bang for buck, but hard to beat a nice 4 door 1jz!

Yep I had a nice Cressida 2.8  many years ago. I was just about to change my Skoda Superb 2.7 for an Audi Allroad 2.7TT when I got to the bit where it said to service the turbos first remove the engine so for now I have settled for a boring but reliable (almost beige) 2005 Camry V6

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Would it not be cheaper to just spray nitrous?
    • I've got cash, it's the NA LOLS I'm after now Plus, I've had a few boosted cars, and it is soooo easy to turn a reliable car into a unreliable drivetrain eating money pit monster by just paging up and chasing more My power goal for the NC is to try for a reliable naturally aspirated 150kw or 200hp atw (I'm old, and the old naturally aspirated cherry of 100hp per litre is a goal that I would like to hit), no more is really needed for what I use the car for,  so a additional 5kw is what I'm chasing now,  that 5kw is about $3k away, I think....
    • I dunno. I just go off what I know works. On RB20, the idle switch meant something to the ECU and the potentiometer was ignored. In Nistune, with the switch unplugged, you could bridge the terminals in the loom connector and see IDLE come on and off. Not so by moving the pot. The R32 RB20 ECU and the 26 ECU both look like this. Sure there is the "throttle sensor" (pot) on pin 38, and also sure, the idle switch is also directly wired to the TCU, whereas the pot is only directly conected to the ECU. But I am sure that the throttle position from the pot is passed to the TCU across the data bus on pins 21, 22 & 31. Maybe the ECU likes to know throttle position, but it sure as hell doesn't use it to determine the idle condition. Meanwhile, on the later engines, like the 33 25DET and my Neo, you remove the TPS and move the pot to-from the 0.45V position, and IDLE comes and goes in Nistune. No throttle switch on the ECU diagram. Just the pot.
    • So, good news and bad news Bad news first: The intake plenum is lost in the mail apparently, I haven't paid for it yet, and MX5 Mania are still chasing it up, farking 'Merica postal service  Good news: Any retune will be free if and when it turns up,  I'm still keen for them to throw it on The car goes noticeably better, with only the typical initial take off thingie from a choppy cam and manual transmission, but giving it just a little more RPM than before gives it a smooth take off (and hour or so of peak hour traffic sorted that little skill out) Car made around 145kwatw & 225Nm (Intake may get me to 150kw, maybe....🤣) Weirdly, 145kwatw is the same max power that my standard 2015 WRX STI made a few years ago The cam really comes alive from around 3.5k and keeps making power and holds it flatish all the way to 7k, whereas before torque would drop hard around at 4.5k Drive home was sadly in peak hour, although I did get a little clean air here and there to wind out 1st and 2nd a little bit, and whilst the gains aren't anything for the "boosted boys" to be impressed at, the thing is a blast to drive The sound in the vid is poor, as it is in a undercover yard at work, but, outside, in the wild, it sounds awesomeballs to my ears with all the choppyness I consider it money very well spent for the outcome  Cam specs for reference (Basically the biggest you can fit with stock pistons) 20250417_171807.mp4   LOL, I don't think I will ever grow up  
    • Swap the injectors around and see what happens. If the misfire follows the injectors then that's a signal, if it doesn't it's probably not the injectors.
×
×
  • Create New...