Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Experision of Interest
Looking at selling all my S Chassis parts.
A R35 GTR has come up for sale that I would like to purchase

Selling all my S Chassis parts including :
Work Meister S1 2Pc 18x8 +18 & 18X9 +22

Volk TE37 white17X9 +22 Brand New in Box 

SIL80 with built RB25

engine:
rb25 s2
mahle pistons, spool rods
balanced & grub screwed crank
grout filled
nitto oil pump
ross metal jacket balancer
n1 water pump
oil restricters
head to sump oil drain
greddy plenum with q45 TB- ceramic coated silver
gt3076r ex/w .82- coated black
Turbosmart 45mm wastegate
tomei poncams
tomei valve springs
heavily ported head
rb26 engine covers- powder coated silica breath metallic
mines cam cover baffles
link G4+ xtreme

xspurt 1000cc top feeds
Aeroflow fuel
nismo fuel reg
Walbro 460L e85 pump
splitfire coil packs
3inch stainless exhaust
40mm radiator
air/water seperator
setrab oil cooler with themostat
blitz fmic

Turbosmart 45mmlubmback BOV
lots of braided hose

driveline:
rb25 g/box
r33 master cyclinder
exedy ceramic button clutch
1 piece 3inch tailshaft

wheels:
18x8 +18 work meister s1
18x9 +22 work meister s1
17x9 +22 TE37 in boxes

exterior:
silvia front
type x tail lights
aero front bar and skirts
gtr grill
bomex bonneville rear lip
hand flared guards
Factory S13  indicators & park lights in Box
electric bomex/east bear mirrors
respray in custom grey

interior:
R33 gtr seats
nismo gear knob
powertune 7.1 inch touch screen
 

180sx sr20

53352533_2099646290118288_6143280203813617664_o.thumb.jpg.7c92ea7a336557159fd49d5ea3a17acc.jpg53429858_2099645990118318_6674446943977996288_o.thumb.jpg.517f03604b4a494e60d9b5abe49aff18.jpg53435092_2099644926785091_4720704258473721856_o.thumb.jpg.9819226996096b40165b61b17515a275.jpg53732597_2099644486785135_1978835714103574528_o.thumb.jpg.a7f6ee17814d23838c845446513a4111.jpg


180sx current spec list 24 March 2019

Engine:
Standard sr20 with mls headgasket
standard intake

gtx gen 2867 .82 rear
standard manifold
3 inch exhaust
Link G4+ ecu
taarks fuel rail 1650cc injectors
Walbro460L fuel pump
mid mount intercooler piping & intercooler

Handling:
MCA Purple coilovers
Kazama adjustable Camber, Traction & Toe arms
GKtech front castor arms
S15 front LCA & knuckles
R33 GTR diff, shafs & hubs
Urethane Bushes
R33 GTR Brembo Brakes & master cylinder
dba 4000 front rotors & project Mu Rear
Project Mu Brake pads
GKtech tie rods & ends & rack bushes
Whiteline sway bars front & rear
R33 GTR wheels with Hankook 255/40/17 RS3

Inside:
Cobra Suzuka seat
Defi water & Oil Temp, Oil Pressure, Boost
Keys racing steering wheel

Outside:
Hektic 2000's era styling
Tiger mica paint
clear tail lights

DSC_2422.JPG

Edited by robbo_rb180
  • Sad 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/477097-eoisil80-with-rb25-180sx-track-car/
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As strange as this sounds (as they are fixed back), my Bride Xero CS seats are the most comfortable seats I've used.  I vote go genuine.  The only downside I've found is on very long drives, you can't reposition your body while driving. So even though its comfy, being locked in the same position eventually becomes uncomfortable. I find myself stopping every 3 or so hours to stretch my legs on long drives. 
    • You don't have to be bored driving a Camry. Not based on the way that a couple of f**king Ubereats/Didi/othersortofmethaddlednightshiftattheservicestationrecentimmmigrants were piloting them on the way to work this morning. f**k me dead!
    • FWIW, the Bride reps are really nice to sit in. The only complaint I have, other than the tear in my bolster, is that the velcro used to hold the backrest cushion in place, up under the headrest, is a little obvious and intrusive and could probably be done better. I don't know if that is a "feature" on the genuine ones also though. I haven't looked at a genuine one like the ones I have, only some of the older models. The other thing is, even though I bought the CF ones, I think the CF is really just decorative, over the top of the same FG as the normal seats. And so they really aren't light. Between the solidly built CF/FG seat, the steel frame in the recliner mechanism, and the solid-arse seat rail, they are probably heavier than even the stock seat. They are a serious lift to get in and out of the car.
    • Yes, and so the barest minimum power target is the one that makes the most sense. Massive power is fun, but you can only use it for 1.5s at a time, and only every now and then. Medium power levels allow you to enjoy the car far more often and for longer. 500 engine HP is just below 300 rwkW which is about the maximum that is sensible for any street car really. And for a 2.6L six, it will still leave you with a decent boost response and some sort of linearity of power delivery. As you get up towards 400rwkW the onset of power tends to be increasingly like a cliff and you need drag radials to keep the ground in proper contact with the car, and.... it's just not a car for driving around any more.
    • I already reached that conclusion myself after reading up a whole bunch and watching various videos from multiple sources. Don't know yet how I'd best manage that with the least amount of headache. Probably pulling the sump and just welding on a AN10 adapter or something. I also think it's healthy to take most opinions with a grain of salt, because experiences differ wildly and especially Aussies - when talking about RBs - don't know a world below 600whp drag builds. Personally I doubt I will ever take my R33 racing, so it's going to be a street car with the occasional spirited drive. Hence why I am (so far) under the impression that I'm going to be fine with a stock-ish engine for a while.
×
×
  • Create New...