Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey fam :))

Just brought my r32 v spec 6months ago, done compression test it was all good n healthy.

test drive it seems like a nugget boost gauge only showing the needle just under 7+psi

and stock gtr are a nugget lol slow n boring so didn’t think anything of it. Coz before I brought this drove another v spec and it was same thing slow  

so I thought the boost was just turn down so I took it to my mechanic for a tune so turn it up  getting bad news it’s not making boost over 8psi

so his stripping and see what’s the problems  

i wanna go single but I don’t want crazy power so don’t seems no point  and I want the car to still have the factory look 

so gonna go with twins but not sure what I want was having dash 5s in mind I’ll b happy with 300kw 

so wanna see what u guys have out with twins n what power it’s making  

 

thanks a lot in advance 

 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/477147-single-or-twins/
Share on other sites

I'd do a search on the forum before you get flammed here.

Basically, from the other times I've seen this question. Keeping the twins is convenient and cheap, but you'll run out of ability to make power past a certain point.

Converting to single is expensive and time consuming in comparision now, but will yield greater results down the track when you are trying to crack big power.

I think...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/477147-single-or-twins/#findComment-7906155
Share on other sites

Stock the R32 GT-R made 10 PSI of boost with the restrictor, 14 psi without. If you aren't making 10 psi definitely start asking why.

While we're on the subject of turbo selection, is there anything out there that replicates the response of the stock ceramic turbos but with an inconel exhaust wheel? -7s and -9s seem to be about on par or slightly better than ceramic turbos rebuilt with inconel exhaust turbines which means boost comes in a little later. I'm shooting for high 200 to low 300 kW.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/477147-single-or-twins/#findComment-7906174
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, joshuaho96 said:

While we're on the subject of turbo selection, is there anything out there that replicates the response of the stock ceramic turbos but with an inconel exhaust wheel? -7s and -9s seem to be about on par or slightly better than ceramic turbos rebuilt with inconel exhaust turbines which means boost comes in a little later. I'm shooting for high 200 to low 300 kW.

Not sure why you want to specify inconel. If I were spending money on a GTR's turbos, I'd be going EFR, 100%.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/477147-single-or-twins/#findComment-7906180
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, GTSBoy said:

Not sure why you want to specify inconel. If I were spending money on a GTR's turbos, I'd be going EFR, 100%.

I guess they're normally referred to as steel turbines, but regardless the point is my power goals are basically maxing out stock turbos rebuilt with steel. Another option would be -7s or -9s but whatever the case this is primarily a street car, it needs to be well mannered and pass California's emissions testing every 2 years. Good turbo response in that high 2000 to low 3000 RPM range is important to me.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/477147-single-or-twins/#findComment-7906198
Share on other sites

Only reason I don’t want to go single is want the car to have the factory look. 

And just incase in the future I want to sell it don’t want it to lose value since it’s a v spec. 

 

Andrew from motive DVD got 383kw with the -7 turbos. 

 

So so I’ll be going with them 383kw is plenty for a weekend car. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/477147-single-or-twins/#findComment-7906256
Share on other sites

7 hours ago, Andrew Le said:

Only reason I don’t want to go single is want the car to have the factory look. 

And just incase in the future I want to sell it don’t want it to lose value since it’s a v spec. 

 

Andrew from motive DVD got 383kw with the -7 turbos. 

 

So so I’ll be going with them 383kw is plenty for a weekend car. 

-7s are going to just barely break 300kw at the wheels, probably high 200s if you have exhaust restriction/wastegate control isn't ideal. They're a good street turbo though. If you want more power -9s will get you there without too much difference in turbo lag, mostly at that 3000-4000 rpm region where you'll notice the difference back to back. 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/477147-single-or-twins/#findComment-7906262
Share on other sites

Once the car is modified its modified, regardless of singles or twins. Andrew made the high figures with high flowed -7's, e85 and cams not just standard -7's.

If you are worried about value then I would rebuild the stock turbos or just add regular -7's and remove the boost restrictor.

modding a GTR is a deep rabbit hole to dive down so decide early if want to "eventually" go big it is way more affordable to go big from the start. 

Up-Garage in the states look like they do some great work so maybe connect with them to get some ideas or if you are looking for big numbers then there is about 5,000,000 post on this site and an entire internet with options for that.

 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/477147-single-or-twins/#findComment-7906266
Share on other sites

If you are going down that "stock" look, just take out your ticking time bombs aka your stock turbos and get them high flowed by Tao at @hypergear turbo.

Get a Nistune board (I can supply and have it fitted/sent back to you), bump up the fuel pressure (if you don't want to install new injectors) a little and just tune it.

The car will look incredibly stock.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/477147-single-or-twins/#findComment-7906275
Share on other sites

Get a PWR 600x300x81mm cooler or Aero flow to save few coins, General pod filters, Tomei dump pipes, 3 inches front pipe,  3.5 inches 100 cell cat with 3.5 inches cat back exhaust. Turbos I would high flow them to -9 specs with 14psi actuators. I'm not sure about stock R32 ECU, but R33 ECU supported just under 300awkws on that setup on 98 fuel.       

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/477147-single-or-twins/#findComment-7906277
Share on other sites

Look if want to retain twins, but upgrade, and have as close to factory response -9 / hks gt-ss is the only option. I have that on the 33 and makes between 310 -330kw in 98 with around 22psi stock cams. 360 - 380kw might be achievable on E85 upped cams but that would be it. Max.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/477147-single-or-twins/#findComment-7906298
Share on other sites

The GT-SS might be the best balance, I've noticed the compressor efficiency seems to be better in the expected regime of operation vs R34 N1, but it definitely gives something up in response compared to stock turbos. I waffle regularly on what is the best turbo for a 2.6 street car with driveability as a primary concern.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/477147-single-or-twins/#findComment-7906304
Share on other sites

1 minute ago, GTSBoy said:

And the answer is never twins.

I think the problem there is more like I've never seen a single turbo build where they targeted a power goal of something like 290-300 kW at the wheels. I believe Hypergear tried with the sst thread but I wasn't too impressed with the results. High mount manifolds that I usually see on single turbo RB26s also greatly increases the amount of heat radiating into the engine bay instead of out the exhaust. Not a fan of the extra volume from exhaust valve to turbine inlet either.

It's all relative to though, to me -9s are as big as I'd go. Street manners are a very big deal to me, it's definitely never going to be a V8 but I want the powerband to start as close to 3000 RPM as possible and hold out until ~7000-7500 RPM if I can help it. 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/477147-single-or-twins/#findComment-7906308
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Stock equivalent turbo replacement is a bit of a nightmare. The old Hitachi ceramic things were pretty good for their time, but they have primitive, vintage aerodynamics. The only thing they have going for them is a light turbine**, and there are plenty of other light turbine options these days, in both materials and CNC manufacturing methods. So, the old stocker makes absolutely no power at all compared to its physical size and its (not very low) boost threshold and response. ** and the ONLY thing that was good about the ceramic turbine was that it was light. In all other respects it is a nightmare. To get a turbo that is anywhere near equivalent in terms of power capacity (ie, to avoid it being "bigger" and needing tuning/fuelling/etc) you have to physically downsize. And that is not a "stockish" replacement. Doesn't just fit where the old one did. At least a frame size down, probably need a new dump, probably need new inlet and outlet piping made on the compressor side, new hose connections as D said above. I say, if you have to suffer that much work, you might as well do the same work to fit an even bigger (than stock) turbo, have more power (and hence have to do injectors, ECU, etc), and love life, instead of suffering with stock power levels. Or, you get a light highflow from someone like Hypergear. A highflow that has not been pushed too far from stock. There are still modification consequences here though. HG's cores are smaller than the massive Hitachi core, so it is shorter, moves the compressor housing backwards and requires mods to the air side piping. Plus new hoses. Looks stock, mostly fits where the stock one did (with the previous caveats mentioned), makes a bit more power but can be run at stock boost levels and not cause too many ECU problems. But, seriously. It's 2024. Like - 25 years since the R33 came out. It's time to put an ECU in it. I Nistuned my car (on RB20 ECU then later again on the Neo ECU) and it was the single best thing possible for minimal money. Dial out the R&R bullshit, fix up the fuelling and timing to make it more efficient for normal driving (cut fuel consumption by >10%). Nistune is not an option for you unless you change the ECU, so you might as well just do a standalone. it will be worth it. And then you can tune it up to the limits of the injectors and AFM, which is pushing 200rwkW and enjoy some actual squirt, instead of the lazy barge-like motion you get from a stock engine, turbo and management.
    • He can't post pics until he's at 10 post count.
    • Welcome James.....will be interesting to see how much fun there is in the project. .....where's the pics?
    • Your profile doesn't say where you are, but you can get your current turbo rebuilt by any competent turbo shop, places like Precision Turbos or GCG They can replace the core with a modern ball bearing unit and should be able to source same or slightly larger wheels to fit in you housing. Note if you change the core you may need new oil and water lines too
×
×
  • Create New...