Jump to content
SAU Community

want to buy a turbo kit for my N/A R34


Recommended Posts

so i have been thinking.
would it be best to save a bit of extra cash and sell what i have but instead of buying a GTT id just buy something else.
i would love to get a r32 gtr or evo 8/9
anyone know of any good import companies i hear iron chef imports are good.
anyone got any other suggestions on which import company they trust that are good?
I was replying to this!
Link to comment
Share on other sites

My views of not buying a turbo car, and then putting a turbo on a non-turbo'd car, but also not using a half cut, from the same model of car of your non-turbo'd car, that came with a turbo, is like "I can only tell you what i did not tell you what or where you wanna buy."
That should clear things up nicely.......
[emoji90]
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 10/06/2019 at 6:31 PM, Slap said:

I can only tell you what i did not tell you what or where you wanna buy

Excellent, That's excellent. We knew you'd agree... the companies will be very pleased

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

My views of not buying a turbo car, and then putting a turbo on a non-turbo'd car, but also not using a half cut, from the same model of car of your non-turbo'd car, that came with a turbo, is like "I can only tell you what i did not tell you what or where you wanna buy."
That should clear things up nicely.......
To clarify, my car is factory turbo with a manual conversion.

Heaps of people turbo n/a rb and more like building rb25/30. Why be so negative when people show intrest in a similar thing.

Sau isn't ment for people to get on here and try make others feel shid.

And as my post basicaly stated and some just cant fathom... the poster has there own decision to make and my experience buying an R32 is the best influence i can give

What im wondering is how many
assh[emoji95]les will read this , get offended , not take any of it aboard and be a heroe to them selves by replying some more spirit breaking BS.

[emoji106][emoji122][emoji122][emoji122][emoji122][emoji122][emoji122][emoji122][emoji122][emoji122][emoji122][emoji106]
Round of applause for giving my post your time!
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Um, ok.

The first paragraph was to the OP IRT doing it the easy and cost effective way, and ending up with some form of reliability, but, written in a confusing and disjointed manner, as per a previous post.

Gt to Gtt = buy a Gtt or get a halfcut or wrecked car.

I've known some people who have knocked together a kit to turbo a NA 34.

After the dust had cleared they stated that it would have been better to:

A. Sell GT and buy GTT

Or

B. Sell GT and buy GTT

Resale will also take a hit, personally I wouldn't touch a NA to a turbo swap, registration and insurance could also be problematic.

The last bit was a quote out of your post which I though was the most confusing statement in the whole thread.

In the end I don't care what people do, hell, I constantly do stupid shit, but, as I get older, wasting money on stupid shit has lost its luster.

I concider turbocharging a NA 34 as wasting money on stupid shit.

The outlay to do the job right, will have you at GTT money anyway.

What's a GT worth? $10-15k, GTT,s go for what, $15-35k?

So, sell GT for $10k ish, add $15-20k ish and buy GTT.

How much is it going to cost to turbo a GT, register it, and have some form of reliability.

Me, I would buy a R32 and drop a RB25 in it, see, now where is the logic in that......and here's me, with all my experience in wasting money on stupid shit. 

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

^ This, and all the this. It's amazing how much coke'n'hookers people are willing to go without just to do something that that others have already done and pronounced to be the hard way to achieve the goal. It's like rooting the ugly best friend to get to the hot chick. Some would boast about getting 2x roots. Some would want to keep the first one quiet. Some would just go around the ugly chick.

5 minutes ago, mlr said:

Me, I would buy a R32 and drop a RB25 in it, see, now where is the logic in that......and here's me, with all my experience in wasting money on stupid shit. 

And this especially. I have done it all. Manual conversion on R32, followed years later by 25 conversions. Money spent probably far exceeds what it would have cost to dispose of the 32 early on and replace with a 34. By the same token.....if you average out what the car has cost me over the last 20 years, my wife's various SUVs have probably cost 3x as much. So I consider it to be a hung jury decision on value.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Sell GT, buy GT-t and spend the free time and excess cash on piles of coke and endless weekends with hookers.

Or buy a F30 335i

Put a Barra in and spend the rest on bogan hookers and ice.......or not...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Arhg! So many inactualaties.

34 gt 10-15k bahahaha no way. Try 3-7k.

What if hes already registered?

So what if they wanna learn the long way and spend the bux like many have.

12-20k for an immaclulate pimp gtt is most ive seen em at. Unless very special.

Turbo 32s are more preferred now days than 34 why they fetch similar figures.

Ect... ect.... barras [emoji86] not a true skyline fan hey. Seems to be alot on SAU
talkin up there rollas and golf gtis omg Sau isnt FB.


So many people tinker on there skidlines. Maybe its not worth the bang for buck anymore unless you love your car, it is beside the point , if someone wants to do what you dont let em.
Advice can be taken or left.
Good advice doesnt come in the form of a back hand , thats bad advice because ya put em off the good shid and make bad advice seem good.

Do the conversion OP if that what you want

Link to comment
Share on other sites

@slap Ect... ect.... barras [emoji86] not a true skyline fan hey. Seems to be alot on SAU

talkin up there rollas and golf gtis omg Sau isnt FB.

 

Once you have a really clean or high powered build and have achieved your Skyline goals, your focus will shift too!

There's only so many 10s of thousands you can throw at Skylines before other factors come into it.

 

Cars are cool.

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 6/10/2019 at 6:01 PM, Slap said:

Follow your heart , sacrifice the essential.

Nah, food and housing is more important than a turbo. Your making bad advise seem good which is bad.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

You read good advice as bad.

'Sacrifice the essentials.' means what is essential to get where you want.
Not the essentials you need to live... thats foolish.

@ steve85. True cept i believe OP isnt there.
But i dont get how it justifies saying on a skyline forrum that a golf a rolla or a ford is un upgrade to a skyline.
Its SAU not CAU.
And yes cars are good.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I had a NA+T Skyline that I bought when I knew very little, then put a GTT motor in it (not a NA+T) which was the smart decision. I did RB28 stroker kit, EFR Turbo and a Manual conversion. Now it has a 5.7L V8 in it and a T56.


So skip all the lines and yourself a V8, OP. I will testify as a package it beats the everliving shit out of any other Skyline or engine combination, you could give me the keys to a R34 GTR and I would hand them right back as that car is nowhere near the same level of comfort or fun or performance or reliability or peace of mind or cost.

So yeah, stay NA is what I am saying obviously.


There's two types of people in the world, one who will stop, listen and think and benefit from other people's experience (both good and bad) and actual, genuine idiots. Threads like this help define what kind of person someone actually is.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

@ kinkstaah Nice build.
Did you get the wrong advice on the way or
Did you ignore some.
Or were you a ledgend that got none and learned it all by yourself the hard way.


@dosepipe
A bmw
Y not just buy a fatter c[emoji51]ck

Where are the true skyline fans?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Clearly you haven't driven a refined performance car. 

A BMW M4 in stock form will happily do sub 1m10s around Wakefield Park. Throw on some semis and you'll see a sub 7 or even 6. For a GTS-t / GT-t to do those times you need to throw some serious coin at it.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Would be nice to have a chance.
What im getting at is its not Bau.
Anyone who is lookin @ gt +t is lookin to do it skimp, avoid rwc compliances and engenering needs usualy because there car is still a registered skyline and they like there car. Why they came to Sau.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The two diagrams are equivalent. The R32 one is just one sheet out of about 3 showing everything in the whole car all at once. And without knowing the functionality that occurs in the modules, they are both equally opaque.
    • 8v - 2.48ms 9v - 2.15ms 10v - 1.74ms 11v - 1.41ms 12v - 1.15ms 13v - 0.99ms 14v - 0.89ms 15v - 0.82ms 16v - 0.81ms I'm running these values on my RB20 Neo with 570cc Denso R35 stock jets and it's great. Also bought a set for my Legnum VR4, love these injectors!
    • Thanks for your reply,  Those blue/green wires running to the actuator aren't attached to anything, so I'm not sure how the central locking is still working. I will have to take a good look tomorrow, I don't have the car with me. After googling it seems like a pretty common aftermarket actuator which even uses the same green/blue wires the immobiliser required. i'll test everything tomorrow and if it's working i'll melt the solder, strip it, resolder and neaten it all up with some heat shrink. I don't have to understand it if it works hahaha I just don't want a fire/ short circuit. That R32 diagram looks more like a continuity chart? Can you make sense of this form the R34 manual? 10V is probably due to very flat battery, i'll recheck as well tomorrow, I did have to jump start it haha. Thanks again!  
    • So, COM doesn't mean comms. It means common. What common itself means will depend on the type of device. For a two directional actuator (ie, one that can push and pull on the same output rod) then the common will typically just be the earth connection. There will be at least 2 other wires. If you put 12V on one of the other wires, then the actuator will push. On the other 12V wire, it will pull. Can't quite make out what is going on with the wiring of your actuator. It appears to have several wires at the actuator plug, but there only appears to be 2 wires where its loom approaches the door control module, with at least one of the others cut off. I don't know these actuators off by heart. I'd have to look at a wiring diagram for one before knowing what the wires were about, and that's despite me having to replace one in my car not all that long ago. Just not interesting enough to have dedicated memory set aside for trivia like that any more. That actuator is an aftermarket one, not the original one, which probably died and was replaced. That might require some sort of bodge job on wiring to make it work. Although nothing should justify the bodginess of the bodge job done. As to the soldering job on the door module's loom plug. Ahhahhahaha. Yes, very nasty. Again, I cant tell you what any of those wires do. You'd need to study the R34 wiring diagram (if you can find one that shows the door module). I don't think I have any. I'd have to study the R32 diagram to start to understand what mine is doing, and again, even though I've had a problem with mine for the last 25 years (where it locks the passenger door when the driver's window reaches top or bottom of travel) I'm just not interested enough to try to to work it out. So long as it's not burning down, it's fine with me. Here's the R32 GTR diagram, which, confusingly, has rear door lock actuators and window motors on it!! As you can see, unless you understand the functions of the door lock timer and the power window amplifier, you'll never be able to work out how it works just from the diagram. I don't imagine that the R34 one is any better. Hopefully an R34 aware bod can help. FWIW, the two wires that are cut and joined look like they are both power supply - so hopefully it is not fatal to join them. The 10V you measured on the cut off free end of one of them is concerning. You'd expect 12V, and it might be the reason for the bodge job joining them together.
×
×
  • Create New...