Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

On 12/06/2019 at 4:28 PM, mlr said:

Um, ok.

The first paragraph was to the OP IRT doing it the easy and cost effective way, and ending up with some form of reliability, but, written in a confusing and disjointed manner, as per a previous post.

Gt to Gtt = buy a Gtt or get a halfcut or wrecked car.

I've known some people who have knocked together a kit to turbo a NA 34.

After the dust had cleared they stated that it would have been better to:

A. Sell GT and buy GTT

Or

B. Sell GT and buy GTT

Resale will also take a hit, personally I wouldn't touch a NA to a turbo swap, registration and insurance could also be problematic.

The last bit was a quote out of your post which I though was the most confusing statement in the whole thread.

In the end I don't care what people do, hell, I constantly do stupid shit, but, as I get older, wasting money on stupid shit has lost its luster.

I concider turbocharging a NA 34 as wasting money on stupid shit.

The outlay to do the job right, will have you at GTT money anyway.

What's a GT worth? $10-15k, GTT,s go for what, $15-35k?

So, sell GT for $10k ish, add $15-20k ish and buy GTT.

How much is it going to cost to turbo a GT, register it, and have some form of reliability.

Me, I would buy a R32 and drop a RB25 in it, see, now where is the logic in that......and here's me, with all my experience in wasting money on stupid shit. 

 

if i were to sell what i have now id really like to try something else like a 32 gtr or an evo but you make a good point with the price and wasting money on stupid things, everything is expensive these days and its only gotten worse. but if i were to save up money it might be a while before i buy a new car considering what the gtr and evo's are price wise

  • Like 1
20 hours ago, Slap said:

Arhg! So many inactualaties.

34 gt 10-15k bahahaha no way. Try 3-7k.

What if hes already registered?

So what if they wanna learn the long way and spend the bux like many have.

12-20k for an immaclulate pimp gtt is most ive seen em at. Unless very special.

Turbo 32s are more preferred now days than 34 why they fetch similar figures.

Ect... ect.... barras emoji86.png not a true skyline fan hey. Seems to be alot on SAU
talkin up there rollas and golf gtis omg Sau isnt FB.


So many people tinker on there skidlines. Maybe its not worth the bang for buck anymore unless you love your car, it is beside the point , if someone wants to do what you dont let em.
Advice can be taken or left.
Good advice doesnt come in the form of a back hand , thats bad advice because ya put em off the good shid and make bad advice seem good.

Do the conversion OP if that what you want

a r34 gt can and does usually go for around 10k. i bought mine for 11k and that was 4 years ago. so id assume the price wouldnt have dropped heaps. also i dont have much kilometres done anyway so i reckon i could catch a decent figure for it. i am already registered. but yeh you're totally right its up to me whether to take the advice or not and do whatever i so choose lol

 

but im always open for anyones advice or tips as it can persuade me on what to do next

  • Like 1
8 hours ago, Kinkstaah said:

I had a NA+T Skyline that I bought when I knew very little, then put a GTT motor in it (not a NA+T) which was the smart decision. I did RB28 stroker kit, EFR Turbo and a Manual conversion. Now it has a 5.7L V8 in it and a T56.


So skip all the lines and yourself a V8, OP. I will testify as a package it beats the everliving shit out of any other Skyline or engine combination, you could give me the keys to a R34 GTR and I would hand them right back as that car is nowhere near the same level of comfort or fun or performance or reliability or peace of mind or cost.

So yeah, stay NA is what I am saying obviously.


There's two types of people in the world, one who will stop, listen and think and benefit from other people's experience (both good and bad) and actual, genuine idiots. Threads like this help define what kind of person someone actually is.

ultimately id like to keep it RB. but i get your point, i know of people who have added turbo's to NA cars and while they said it caused some headaches at first its all worth it in the end because of what they wanted in the first place which is to have a turbo and have some fun lol

but i havent made up my mind yet not in a total rush just want to see other peoples opinions were and try to decide then.

  • Like 1
7 hours ago, Slap said:

Would be nice to have a chance.
What im getting at is its not Bau.
Anyone who is lookin @ gt +t is lookin to do it skimp, avoid rwc compliances and engenering needs usualy because there car is still a registered skyline and they like there car. Why they came to Sau.

yes that was my idea lol 

  • Like 1
5 minutes ago, Jase_r34 said:

not interested in euro, im always a JDM guy lol

Funny enough in my 20s I said exactly the same thing, now in my mid 30s, I've dropped that mindset after driving a few and also owning one, my perspective has changed.

Don't get me wrong, I still have a soft spot for JDMs but if i could turn back time I would just tell myself to go buy a fast, stock, European car.

I am speaking from experience, after going through a few JDM cars, from mild to wild (180kW to 400kW+) I can safely say that they were just a total waste of money. You spend more time spannering, fixing them than actually enjoying them.

  • Like 1
6 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

And realistically, we should not be supporting this "do it skimp" mentality. Shitty modified cars are bad for all of us. You live in f**king Victoria for f**k's sake. You should understand more than anyone else what it is to try live in a nazi control freak environment if you happen to like modded cars. If you want to help and encourage people to modify vehicles on the skimp, please do it to another make and model, so the cops don't associate our cars with flatbrim toothless single pegger fuctards.

the only blame should go to the so called Victorian "government" 

modifications are illegal but stealing someones pride and joy or committing an actual crime like murder gets you absolutely nothing

sometimes i feel like moving states lol

  • Like 1
5 hours ago, Kinkstaah said:

Yourself and Mat Wooten's R34 had actual supportable, reliable data behind how the engine was driven, how it lasted, how long it lasted etc which is what people should be looking for instead of "I've owned the car with 600kw for years bro no probs" that can sometimes befound.

Definitely seems exponential in terms of power vs longevity (as you'd expect). A lot of things start to go pear shaped in Skylines as you go over 300-320kw, Clutches get shit, grip gets hard, lag becomes a problem, gearboxes let go, diffs can't hang on, NVH increases exponentially, engines explode more often, etc.

But yeah with a NA+T this all happens at 220kw instead of 320kw. If OP wants to have a 220kw car honestly and won't want more, then sure, NA+T and it may suit him really well.

Statistically improbable, though, hence all the well informed advise that gets repeated time and time again. Rare is the guy who is OK to drop down on power, usually same guy who has had reliability issues at higher power and the joy of cars hasn't been brutally snuffed out by them lol.

your 100% right i only want a decent amount of power around 200-250kw on safe boost i dont want to go crazy. again this would only be for street use im not planning to put this out on the track where i would need over 300kw

You'll need 300kW in a Skyline to move unfortunately. These days modern cars are quick!

A 250kW R32~34 will lose to a Golf GTI MK7 with just an exhaust, intake, FMIC and a reflash at a set of lights.

Where I'm getting at is, 300kW on a NA NEO with a turbo strapped to it won't last, nor will the NA gearbox.

36 minutes ago, Steve85 said:

Sorry, i think i've misled you there a bit. 

You asked at the beginning which importers would be best if you wanted to bring in a different car. 
 

I was pointing you to the thread where most people have given their feedback. 

sorry my bad! all good will take a look at it now thanks!

  • Like 1
13 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Funny enough in my 20s I said exactly the same thing, now in my mid 30s, I've dropped that mindset after driving a few and also owning one, my perspective has changed.

Don't get me wrong, I still have a soft spot for JDMs but if i could turn back time I would just tell myself to go buy a fast, stock, European car.

I am speaking from experience, after going through a few JDM cars, from mild to wild (180kW to 400kW+) I can safely say that they were just a total waste of money. You spend more time spannering, fixing them than actually enjoying them.

hahaha i dont think ill ever change my mindset i can be pretty stubborn at times lol my cousin was the same, back in 2001 he brought a brand new s15 sold it and now owns a 2014 holden maloo R8 and he loves it. he said the same thing he always likes jdm's but will from now on buy holden/ford V8's or something euro like a bmw or merc

7 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

You'll need 300kW in a Skyline to move unfortunately. These days modern cars are quick!

A 250kW R32~34 will lose to a Golf GTI MK7 with just an exhaust, intake, FMIC and a reflash at a set of lights.

Where I'm getting at is, 300kW on a NA NEO with a turbo strapped to it won't last, nor will the NA gearbox.

what are the golf gti mk7 stock power? 

they are quick but there relatively new so they should be quick lol

as much as id like to burn someone at a set of lights, unfortunately cant race anywhere these days without the chance of being pulled over by the cops

but in saying that id like something decent not too overboard just looking for a bit more power, you get sick of driving a NA your whole life its why i want to turbo it and not to mention the sound!

I think being seen in a golf is sad when you could be seen in a skidline.

 

Most turbo skidline owners know to do rolling starts only and just put off at lights.

 

Ive blown a golf or 2 off the road.

Actualy the only car that gave my hack tuned skidline a run was a 2015 xr8 supercharged 370kw.

I only had max 200kw.

His traction control was holding him back as he pulled away low rpm and id wind em in at high rpm. 17psi highflow rb20det safc hacked and the usuals.

 

Good thing if ya keep it n/a it will last a lifetime.

 

Watever ya do dont buy cheap bits.

 

 

Funny story, I'm pushing a massive 145kwatw in a NA 86.

The only other car that was this much fun on the street was my MX5.

This includes my old  1995 380kwatw R33 GTST, my 2015 215kwatw WRX STI, and a plethora of V8 Holdens and Fords, oh, and and a Mazda RX2 bridgeport .

I looked into boosting my 86, both turbo and supercharged, the issue was, to have any form of reliability over 200kwatw, I would need to build the engine, get a stronger gearbox, axles, temp control for the oil, and then, to be legal, engineering cert, insurance...... well that was another story.

You really don't want to crash a heavily modified car without it being insured, for the mods, the insurance company will laugh at you, even if it's not your fault, because your car is "unroadworthy" in the eyes of the law, and rightly so.

My hasty calcs had me at around $50k to boost the 86 the right way, it really adds up if you want to do things right.

So, the 86 ended up with suspension and some breathing mods and a tune.

Good thing is I can thrash its guts out every day and it doesn't break, it handles like a go kart and costs nothing to run, it is a perfect daily driver street car for a old hoon, and all within the speed limits.

Disclaimer: I do want to build something stupid again though, but something special, steel bumper, something with a stupid motor, yes it will be a waste of money, and yes it will spend 99% of its time in the garage.

Finding a cheap clean base is the fun bit.

Keeping it hidden from the Mrs is the hard bit.

I keep looking at 1970's Toyota Crowns, and wondering how a boosted Barra would fit in the engine bay, now that would be stupid, stupid fun.

TL;DR. If you are going to the trouble of building something, build something unique.

  • Like 4

I believe the rb20 to be the most reliable dohc and 2wd less to go wrong.


I think jase may want a turbo v8 but realisticly the cheapest option is a transplant and to be stealth the same original block numbers on a low mount manifold with a heat sheild.
Changing motors in excess of a certain power level needs compliance and a v8 would also be very distinguishable.

R32s are rare in general now. Everyone drifted them to death.
Gtr the best obviously... Y i gots a visual mock up with an impul grill. But the grill went rusty and im gonna fit an s14 s2 grill cause it looks like it will be similar.

Thanks jase. I wanted a darker christmas ball green but my mate made this paint at the hi-chem factory in hallam.. its called maxs green and has 9 different shades of green with green metalics and more gold metalic flakes.

Just buy a cheap ss and save for a gtt. If ya crash theres the donor ahaha.

On 13/06/2019 at 11:38 PM, Slap said:

I believe the rb20 to be the most reliable dohc and 2wd less to go wrong.


I think jase may want a turbo v8 but realisticly the cheapest option is a transplant and to be stealth the same original block numbers on a low mount manifold with a heat sheild.
Changing motors in excess of a certain power level needs compliance and a v8 would also be very distinguishable.

R32s are rare in general now. Everyone drifted them to death.
Gtr the best obviously... Y i gots a visual mock up with an impul grill. But the grill went rusty and im gonna fit an s14 s2 grill cause it looks like it will be similar.

Thanks jase. I wanted a darker christmas ball green but my mate made this paint at the hi-chem factory in hallam.. its called maxs green and has 9 different shades of green with green metalics and more gold metalic flakes.

Just buy a cheap ss and save for a gtt. If ya crash theres the donor ahaha.

hahaha 

yeah youre right its hard to find a r32 especially to get it registered most of them are used for track nowadays and the gtr's are getting expensive by the minute it seems. 

my cousin has a VE ss and hes just chucked in a massive pod filter thats not even covered. he doesn't really care if hes pulled over by the cops lol

  • Like 1
On 13/06/2019 at 10:01 PM, mlr said:

Funny story, I'm pushing a massive 145kwatw in a NA 86.

The only other car that was this much fun on the street was my MX5.

This includes my old  1995 380kwatw R33 GTST, my 2015 215kwatw WRX STI, and a plethora of V8 Holdens and Fords, oh, and and a Mazda RX2 bridgeport .

I looked into boosting my 86, both turbo and supercharged, the issue was, to have any form of reliability over 200kwatw, I would need to build the engine, get a stronger gearbox, axles, temp control for the oil, and then, to be legal, engineering cert, insurance...... well that was another story.

You really don't want to crash a heavily modified car without it being insured, for the mods, the insurance company will laugh at you, even if it's not your fault, because your car is "unroadworthy" in the eyes of the law, and rightly so.

My hasty calcs had me at around $50k to boost the 86 the right way, it really adds up if you want to do things right.

So, the 86 ended up with suspension and some breathing mods and a tune.

Good thing is I can thrash its guts out every day and it doesn't break, it handles like a go kart and costs nothing to run, it is a perfect daily driver street car for a old hoon, and all within the speed limits.

Disclaimer: I do want to build something stupid again though, but something special, steel bumper, something with a stupid motor, yes it will be a waste of money, and yes it will spend 99% of its time in the garage.

Finding a cheap clean base is the fun bit.

Keeping it hidden from the Mrs is the hard bit.

I keep looking at 1970's Toyota Crowns, and wondering how a boosted Barra would fit in the engine bay, now that would be stupid, stupid fun.

TL;DR. If you are going to the trouble of building something, build something unique.

my mate recently bought an 86 he wants to do a lot of work to it too but ive told him to build an 86 will be expensive, now hes just interested in the aesthetics of it by lowering it and putting a rocket bunny kit on too lol

i wouldnt mind building something unique but im thinking of doing that sort of thing when im older when ive got more time and money on my hands lol

On 13/06/2019 at 9:40 PM, Slap said:

I think being seen in a golf is sad when you could be seen in a skidline.

 

Most turbo skidline owners know to do rolling starts only and just put off at lights.

 

Ive blown a golf or 2 off the road.

Actualy the only car that gave my hack tuned skidline a run was a 2015 xr8 supercharged 370kw.

I only had max 200kw.

His traction control was holding him back as he pulled away low rpm and id wind em in at high rpm. 17psi highflow rb20det safc hacked and the usuals.

 

Good thing if ya keep it n/a it will last a lifetime.

 

Watever ya do dont buy cheap bits.

 

 

i just dont think any euro car suits me nor do i like them as much as jap cars in general. if i were to sell my skyline id look into buying another jap car haha.

in saying that the only positives i can take from a golf is that there lightweight which makes them quick but with the right mods and tune any skyline would pump a golf in my opinion.

  • Like 1
1 hour ago, Jase_r34 said:

in saying that the only positives i can take from a golf is that there lightweight which makes them quick but with the right mods and tune any skyline would pump a golf in my opinion.

Maaaaaaaaybe. I think perhaps you should look at what a $37k Golf R + maybe $15k worth of go fast bits can do. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=co-FHdmHEKo

Very fast. Modern AWD + silly power = more than most Skylines can provide

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks, plan is to drain all fluid tomorrow and do smoke test to find out the leak.   Appreciate your help and want to understand how the system work. So cooling is achieved by the long loop not any rad? The diagram seems to suggest it connects to somewhere inside the cabin and I thought that is a cooler inside firewall. If you look at the diagram it seems to show it connects to something inside firewall. I tried chasing it but not easy unless I take loads off   i am confident pump is good as fluid goes in and it gets soft( steering) but as soon as I turn engine off , loads of bubble come to surface and overflow. When engine is on , fluid level is below minimum but when off it shoots off and thinking it is sucking air in. I suspect aluminium pipe may have a crack line or whole   smoke test with no fluid should be a good start and if needed will remove the pump   In addition, the one going under the engine bay is high pressure line and one directly connecting from pump to resorvoir is return/ low pressure?   finally I searched and suggestion is to use dexron 2 but that is discontinued so bought dexron 3 as all research suggest it is compatible and shouldn’t cause any issues/ blow seals. I bought two liter of dexron 3 motul atf
    • Don't worry about. Just don't try to drive hard enough to make boost and you'll be fine.
    • Yes. This has already been said. It is a loop of hardline in front of the radiator. Because.... the pump is on the LHS and the steering rack hydraulic connections are where they always are on a RHD steering rack....on the RHS. The high pressure line goes down under the engine, along the crossmember, like it does on all Skylines. Don't just throw expensive braided hoses/other kits at it. Work out what is wrong and fix that.
    • Still got the afm on the intake, clamps are shut tight, only loose hose is the one that goes from the j pipe towards the IACV, since it's next to impossible to find a factory hose and the barbs are different sizes (I'm still using clamps on this hose to try and help it seal on the iacv side) I've ordered parts to make up the hotside of the intercooler pipes, I'll plumb it in and see what happens in a few days I suppose The turbo's internally gated, can I just unscrew the tension rod to let the gate open?
    • Did this ever go further ? Would love some updated info 
×
×
  • Create New...