Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, this is my first post here but I've been reading for weeks now as I've been doing a complete engine swap on my car. Great to finally be a part of the skyline community

 

I bought my 2001 R34 GT about 3 months ago, and a month ago the radiator dumped coolant and the engine overheated and warped (didn't change temp gauge at all), and the car shut off completely and smoke billowed from engine. All sorted now with new engine in and everything seemed to be running fine. Took it on a long run 2 days ago and no issues at all, and everything seemed perfect minus the need for a tune. Last night I took it for a run on the freeway and I noticed that the tacho was pretty erratic jumping  about +-700rpm and a loss of power so I pulled over and the car shut off before I stopped and lost power steering similar to when the engine went. I managed to get a tow home and today I checked the plugs (all new from swap), and coilpacks for any damage (not sure if these are stock or not as they are blue, possibly Spitfires?) and didn't find anything. On idle the car is super rough misfiring and jumping around revs, when revving the car evens out at about 3000+, but backfires on decel and idle, even a little around 3000+. I tightened all clamps behind AFM (replaced old one with one from wreckers due to swap) and plan to swap back to the old one tomorrow and check if that fixes anything and also clean out the O2 sensor. Could the issue be a faulty injector possibly? 

Would connecting a scanner to the car produce any possible fault codes? Or would it just read no issue? 

The only thing I can think of in between it being perfect and the issue arising is that the car was washed but I doubt much water found it's way under the bonnet and the car ran fine for an hour or so afterwards. 

Thanks guys any help would be greatly appreciated.

  • Like 1

Could water have got in the tank.
Sounds like closed loop o2 to ecu isnt functioning correctly.wrong a/f mix readings.
By 3k its hittin maps usualy.
If its stock ecu unplug the o2 sensor leave it and do a reset and start it to see if idles and revs to 3k better.
Could be dirty maf also

Any mods we should know to help internet diagnoses?

9 hours ago, Slap said:

Could water have got in the tank.
Sounds like closed loop o2 to ecu isnt functioning correctly.wrong a/f mix readings.
By 3k its hittin maps usualy.
If its stock ecu unplug the o2 sensor leave it and do a reset and start it to see if idles and revs to 3k better.
Could be dirty maf also

Any mods we should know to help internet diagnoses?

I heavily doubt water would have made its way into the tank

I'll give the O2 sensor a go today, cheers. I'll replace with the old AFM and clean the plug today too. Cheers mate

The only mods are a pod filter (have the airbox also, if that would possibly make a difference?) + a cat back exhaust. 

 

I reckon I've found the issue mate, the CAS disc was snapped and bent all over, I'm not sure how it happened though, would you know any causes? 

IMG_20190610_114158_01.jpg

Edited by MarkB34
  • Like 1
5 minutes ago, Slap said:

Wow. I havent seen that before. Definitely an issue. I cant believe it ran clear at 3k.

Unless you broke the disc by accident opening it up. ( doughtful ).

Got another cas?

Me either, I am shocked that it didn't run worse. I've ordered another one, should be here mid week, just concerned it will happen again. Definitely will get it tuned asap, to be sure

Thanks mate

Stock ecu should just need a reset unless u got nistune in it.
Have you driven another turbo skudline?
If not maybe it wasnt running correct at 3k+ and never experienced its hidden truth.

I just cant see it running right at all if that disc was like that the whole time.

New cas . Reset . Away you go hopefully. Goodluck! And becareful cause it may have loads more power than previous.

I doubt the car has a nistune, I've already reset the ecu before and everything ran fine. I haven't driven another turbo skyline, but I'm unsure as the CAS seemed in pretty decent nick when I first looked at it

Hopefully when it arrives I can just plug and go, straight to the tuners. Cheers mate, you too

You cant tune the stock ecu.
You will need an aftermarket one and if your auto one that can assist the auto.

I doubt the car has a nistune, I've already reset the ecu before and everything ran fine. I haven't driven another turbo skyline, but I'm unsure as the CAS seemed in pretty decent nick when I first looked at it
Hopefully when it arrives I can just plug and go, straight to the tuners. Cheers mate, you too

Okay, so I replaced the CAS tonight and the car ran and made it around the block, the timing is slightly off as it has a rumble quite low in the revs and on takeoff. Will adjusting the positioning of the CAS make a difference or should I wait until I get it to a tuner to go over it properly? 

Thanks again guys

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Please do not connect it to your manifold. If you do, as GTS suggested please record the lot in 4K with good mics attached.   On the factory Skyline, there's a upside down pipe that allows it to breathe, looks like this   
    • For me I'd need some serious justification for why it has blown out.  Have you questioned him on it?  To be honest if you didn't question him right from the get-go on the first invoice that was already way over the initial quote and then you've (presumably) then paid another $1375 on top of the first invoice, then you're pushing shit uphill to get a favourable result now... It was years ago I last got an engineer out but it was around $450-$550 per visit.  That was just to inspect each progress point he gave me for the project.  Is he just doing progress inspections or is he providing engineering diagrams, technical assistance, etc??  If he's not, he's a filthy rip off merchant.  If the $3100 is the final sign off then you need to cop it on the chin, pay it and move on.  If it's not, piss him off and get a new one.  Not many Jeeps I'd value at $10K full stop let alone just engineering fees on a written off, half actual value WOVR Jeep....
    • Oh, yes. If you connected it to the manifold your first drive would be very eventful. Very shit. Very interesting. Perhaps take a video if you feel the need to see. Terminating the breather at the top of the bellhousing is normal/stock. Some gearbox lubes (hello Redline Shockproof) like to foam up a bit and require the breather to be extended up higher, so you don't get spots of smurf jizz staining the floor under your car. Mine is thus right up behind the head. Make sure you fit a u-bend at the top so it points back downward so that dirt and schmutz has a harder time getting into it.
    • Cheers for the replies. So i don't connect it to the manifold I just run the hose high up on the firewall?
    • It doesn't really answer your question...but is the head unit full android or just android auto, are you happy with how quickly it boots and responds, and do you have a link?  If we can identify good Android alternatives it will really help people stuck with Japanese screens. Did it have a separate reverse camera input so you would replace the factory one, or are you just going without now...that would be a pretty big steps back. And finally, do you have a picture of the "wire" that you can't plug in? Most likely it is some sort of aerial that is not too important eg japanese traffic or am radio or something if you haven't noticed a functionality issue
×
×
  • Create New...