Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I’m wanting to increase the power slowly of a period of time bit by bit

my question is are there any issues running a 1000hp  fuel pressure regulator on stock boost and lines

just so it’s installed and sitting there then the build can work around it

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/477374-info-required/
Share on other sites

A regulator that can handle 1000HP worth of fuel has a very large flow passage in it. When you try to run it with a smaller pump at much lower power levels, the regulator's valve might end up running very close to the seat in order to maintain the pressure setting and this can lead to unstable pressure control. If the mismatch is severe enough the valve will have to close to get the pressure up, then it will have to burp open because the closed valve is not regulating pressure, it's just allowing it to rise. So instead of a steady servo-controlled pressure, you get a nasty saw-tooth pressure.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/477374-info-required/#findComment-7908073
Share on other sites

It's really more a question of how big the fuel pump is, not the amount of power the engine makes. The limiting case is when you are making near full power and using almost all the fuel pump capacity. In that case the reg is going to need to be very nearly closed to keep pressure control, possibly leading to the sawtooth I described above. That same engine and pump, at idle or crusing, is going to need to return a lot of fuel back to the tank, so the reg will be more open and pressure control will probably be fine.

The capacity of the reg is 100% a function of the capacity of the fuel pump. If the fuel pump is a decent size, you'll probably be OK. If the fuel pump is gasping at your 350 whp, then it might not be so rosy. Very hard to say without trying it.

If your pump has higher capacity than stock, then more than likely it will be fine. But no warranty is issued or implied!

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/477374-info-required/#findComment-7908108
Share on other sites

6 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

It's really more a question of how big the fuel pump is, not the amount of power the engine makes. The limiting case is when you are making near full power and using almost all the fuel pump capacity. In that case the reg is going to need to be very nearly closed to keep pressure control, possibly leading to the sawtooth I described above. That same engine and pump, at idle or crusing, is going to need to return a lot of fuel back to the tank, so the reg will be more open and pressure control will probably be fine.

The capacity of the reg is 100% a function of the capacity of the fuel pump. If the fuel pump is a decent size, you'll probably be OK. If the fuel pump is gasping at your 350 whp, then it might not be so rosy. Very hard to say without trying it.

If your pump has higher capacity than stock, then more than likely it will be fine. But no warranty is issued or implied!

if base pressure is 38psi will be ok running a reg that has min of  40psi adjustment? ie a 40-75psi reg?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/477374-info-required/#findComment-7908154
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's a post from a member (can't recall who), went down the path of a twin scroll G30-660 and it's doing over 300kW+ AND comes on about the same as a high flow RB25DET turbo. Have your cake and eat it too in this case. TBH, if I had a 2nd chance of building my car again (i.e. someone gave me what I wanted for my shit box, but the deal was I had to re-build another R33 and keep the change) I would just pop in a stock NEO motor (with new seals, rod bearings, ARP studs, head gasket, sump, Nitto pump), get a smaller twin scroll turbo, modify the stock low mount (keep the divider in place), and make a solid 300kW on 98RON and call it a day. 
    • It's all the sound deadening, and extra shit piled into them, plus all the extra (even though it's thinner) material for crumple zones. I can't fathom in modern cars why they need canbus to the headlights, and why the headlights must be vin coded on some cars to the ECU, BCM, and security module! Especially when they claim it's for security, yet, the canbus at the headlights let's thieves steal the car in minutes, so even more cars are being stolen! The Mercedes Sprinter 907 vans. They're a huge van, but a "basic" van. Yet they have that many canbus networks, plus two Lin networks, AND an Ethernet network. Logging a single network alone of 8 byte data frames, and they will generate a 20mb log file in 5 minutes. That's one network, and I can't remember the exact amount, but there's over 10 full CAN2.0B networks in them. I'm not a fan of modern cars, oddly, more and more I hate DBW, and all the bullshittery the cars try and interfere with. But all that bullshittery adds weight, plus crazy regulations on crumple zones, plus, ever picked a modern seat up, half of them have like 4 electric motors in them and will weigh 30+kg each. Then all the motors for things like adjustable steering columns blah blah blah. And did I mention the sound deadening so you can even hear an ambulance right behind you even if you 7.2surround sound is off?
    • Ah ok, yeah it should be flat, I believe the r34 battery tray has these 3 bumps in them they makes it line up and everything is flat, don't see how it would tilt if everything is secured.
    • Agreed it actively wants to kill you which I love driving fast cars slow is my stick
    • Awesome! I was thinking S14 since they are longer. I'll give those a shot. Thanks for the input!
×
×
  • Create New...