Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

The alternator on my RB20e in my A31 took a crap on me.  My buddy has a spare RB20DET one.  Will it swap over or are we going to end up wasting a few hours to try it to see.  Either way, I'll end up taking the old one out to rebuild it if necessary but I'd rather spend the few hours getting it down to a place to rebuild it rather than finding out the hard way the RB20DET one doesn't fit.

Thanks!

Dustin

Edited by dj8684
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/477394-will-rb20det-alternator-fit-rb20e/
Share on other sites

I can't see any reason why not. The brackets all bolt to the block, no involvement with the head, and the block is the same. The drive belt arrangements on the front should all be same same. Nissan didn't use different shit between different chassis if they could avoid it, let alone on the same basic engine in the same car.

  • Like 1

Nice!  Well, that certainly gives some encouragement! We're gonna test it out today and I'll share my progress either way.  I know that the alternators have different part numbers from when I looked them up but then again, a lot of parts do even though they're interchangeable.  Let's see what happens!

So... I can CONFIRM that the RB25DET S2 alternator fits on the RB20e SOHC motor.  Everything was plug and play.  The RB25 one is a bit beefier which is nice so it should provide a little more juice.  The only thing I had to do was buy a slightly larger belt as the one for the RB20e was just a hair too small.

  • Like 2
1 hour ago, dj8684 said:

So... I can CONFIRM that the RB25DET S2 alternator fits on the RB20e SOHC motor.  Everything was plug and play.  The RB25 one is a bit beefier which is nice so it should provide a little more juice.  The only thing I had to do was buy a slightly larger belt as the one for the RB20e was just a hair too small.

Good work reporting results, threads with no outcome make baby jesus sad

  • Like 2
  • Haha 1

hahaha true dat.  I'm actually starting to document all the stuff little by little on my YouTube channel.  I'm gonna start a build thread on here and post the links as a I go.  Sadly, I couldn't film the process on this one because I had to do it in my dark parking garage BUT now that it runs, I can actually take it out in the Sun and start the builds from there.  Here's the build intro vid if you wanna check it out:

 

  • 1 year later...

Hey there,bringing back this forum

I have a c34 laurel with a RB20e and the alternator crapped out a couple weeks back. I managed to score a reconditioned RB25DET alternator out of an R33 which fit directly in etc, However it somehow looks misaligned to me. This may have been because i swapped over the RB20e alternator pulley onto the RB25DET alternator.

@dj8684 Did you just install the RB25DET alternator and RB25DET pulley and just get a bigger belt? Cheers.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bump on this to not make another post, had a ‘head drain’ leak on me and have the engine out as we speak. Planning on just putting a new freeze plug back in , plug the tapped holes and just be done with that headache.    Now I still want to relieve pressure to allow oil to pass down the blocks returns easier. I’ve seen catch cans with multiple vents help folks with this issue on this forum.  I’m wanting to make my own. I have some pictures here of my setup if anyone can help how I should plumb and design the catch can I would deeply appreciate it !   rb25 Oil upgrades: 1.0mm restrictor n1 pump/billet gears extended crank collar  extended sump with trap doors/w welded fitting    
    • The Frenchy's kit is the way to go forward. A modern compressor that weighs about 1/2 as much, is at least twice as efficient, and will do a good job on R134a. And of course the kit has everything else you need to connect it up and have it work properly.
    • Hey all , I am in the process of having the AC system in my r32 GTST converted from r12 to r134a and I’m being told my compressor has gone bad and I will need a new one. I was wondering if anybody has any suggestions for what is the best route to go aside from dropping $1500 on a new oem one? I did see that Frenchy’s performance garage offers a kit to mount a Toyota compressor, has anybody actually used this kit on their car? Or is there anywhere I could purchase just a clutch? Any help is appreciated.
    • Well, your RB20 ECU loom won't have wires for the boost solenoid, that boost sensor, and possibly one or two other things. There could be differences in seemingly random things like the charcoal canister purge solenoid, because the 25DET has to handle boost in the vacuum system and the 20DE does not. I don't know - I haven't looked. It is very likely that all the most important things are same-same, being the main sensors like AFM, CAS, etc, and the injectors and ignition. Not that you'll need the AFM for the Haltech anyway. I would suggest that you would seriously want to sit down with the pinouts for both ECUs and just go through them and highlight green what is the same, orange what is different/missing, and make a plan from there. It's not going to be difficult. It will either be the same or need to be fixed.
    • yeaaa that's why I haven't done any wiring to the stock ecu harness because I have the haltech, but then that leads me to the other question of "is the pnp harness really plug and play?" or would I have to still switch some pins/wires over because the pnp is for the rb25det neo harness, and not for the rb20de neo harness. was really hoping to find something to spoon feed me since so many people have done rb20neo + t conversions, but man this is rough.
×
×
  • Create New...