Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My friend has a 2005 V35 Skyline 350GT. It has been stalling coming up to lights, but only if you accelerate quickly and then put the brakes on. The idle is shaky and feels like the car will stall. 

I know the Cam sensors have been replaced in the last 50,000km, from what I've read online the VQ engines quite commonly have issues with these and the symptoms this car is having is close to this. But I'm not sure as I don't believe there is a way to test this? 

I have pulled all the plugs out, nothing wrong on the ignition side of things. Compression is good at 180psi over all 6 with a variance of 5psi. Replaced with new plugs, and good coils same issue. 

Can not find any vacuum leaks, cleaned the MAF sensor and have replaced the fuel filter for good measure. 

The car has 175,000km on it is there anything I am missing to check?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/477410-v35-350gt-bad-idle-and-stalling/
Share on other sites

6 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

In which case, when was the last time the TB saw any carby cleaner?

Ended up finding the culprit the right side bank cat was completely clogged I'm surprised the motor was able to run as well as it did. 

Replaced it with a hi-flow cat and idles perfectly. 

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It is an absolute lottery. They can and have died at stock boost with low usage at all. The turbos are now anywhere up to 36 years old!
    • Huh, wonder why it blew then. I never really beat on the car THAT hard lol I dailyed it and the turbo blew after 6 months
    • That's odd, it works fine here. Try loading it on a different device or browser? It's Jack Phillips JDM, a Skyline wrecker in Victoria. Not the cheapest, but I have found them helpful to find obscure parts in AU. https://jpjdm.com/shop/index.php
    • Yeah. I second all of the above. The only way to see that sort of voltage is if something is generating it as a side effect of being f**ked up. The other thing you could do would be to put a load onto that 30V terminal, something like a brakelamp globe. See if it pulls the voltage away comepletely or if some or all of it stays there while loaded. Will give you something of an idea about how much danger it could cause.
    • I would say, you've got one hell of an underlying issue there. You're saying, coils were fully unplugged, and the fuse to that circuit was unplugged, and you measured 30v? Either something is giving you some WILD EMI, and that's an induced voltage, OR something is managing to backfeed, AND that something has problems. It could be something like the ECU if it takes power from there, and also gets power from another source IF there's an internal issue in the ECU. The way to check would be pull that fuse, unplug the coils, and then probe the ECU pins. However it could be something else doing it. Additionally, if it is something wired in, and that something is pulsing, IE a PWM circuit and it's an inductive load and doesnt have proper flyback protection, that would also do it. A possibility would be if you have something like a PWM fuel pump, it might be giving flyback voltages (dangerous to stuff!). I'd put the circuit back into its "broken" state, confirm the weird voltage is back, and then one by one unplug devices until that voltage disappears. That's a quick way to find an associated device. Otherwise I'd need to look at the wiring diagrams, and then understand any electrical mods done.   But you really should not be seeing the above issue, and really, it's indicating something is failing, and possibly why the fuse blew to begin with.
×
×
  • Create New...