Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Do this, set the entire timing map to 20 degrees for the vac area, now hit it with a timing might and hold the RPM from 1000 to 2000 to 3000 all the way to 6000 and see if there's timing scatter, it should hold 20 regardless of the RPM you're at.

If the timing does move/scatter that's one of the reasons why the car won't take timing. Could be from a faulty CAS (Nissan optical special) or noise with your wiring.

  • Like 1
4 minutes ago, admS15 said:

What was the previous intercooler setup and are you sure the new one is more efficient? Do have iat readings?

 

Is the intake tract and cooler piping internally clean or is there oily residue from blowby, excessive blowby can also cause pinging if substantial enough. Catch can can help here.

 

As already stated e85 will help mask the issue but better to be sorted properly.

Old intercooler was return flow from just jap, new cooler flows heaps better intake tract is about 1.2mtrs shorter and runs a lot cooler to the touch even after about an hour of driving, still cold to touch, all new piping so clean as a whistle and showed no improvement with timing issues after changed to new cooler

8 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Do this, set the entire timing map to 20 degrees for the vac area, now hit it with a timing might and hold the RPM from 1000 to 2000 to 3000 all the way to 6000 and see if there's timing scatter, it should hold 20 regardless of the RPM you're at.

If the timing does move/scatter that's one of the reasons why the car won't take timing. Could be from a faulty CAS (Nissan optical special) or noise with your wiring.

Will get the guys to look into this as soon as ecu is back from Nistune, cheers 

Old intercooler was return flow from just jap, new cooler flows heaps better intake tract is about 1.2mtrs shorter and runs a lot cooler to the touch even after about an hour of driving, still cold to touch, all new piping so clean as a whistle and showed no improvement with timing issues after changed to new cooler
The return flow should have been good enough to provide much better results than what you got, so would definitely not be the issue. Dosepipe's suggestion above is a good one.
45 minutes ago, admS15 said:
52 minutes ago, oxford1327 said:
Old intercooler was return flow from just jap, new cooler flows heaps better intake tract is about 1.2mtrs shorter and runs a lot cooler to the touch even after about an hour of driving, still cold to touch, all new piping so clean as a whistle and showed no improvement with timing issues after changed to new cooler

The return flow should have been good enough to provide much better results than what you got, so would definitely not be the issue. Dosepipe's suggestion above is a good one.

I disagree I have dyno pressure drop tested my blitz return flow and they are crap. It’s my limiting factor currently but will be doing back to back comparison with new plazmaman pro series gtr cooler when I get around to fitting it

I disagree I have dyno pressure drop tested my blitz return flow and they are crap. It’s my limiting factor currently but will be doing back to back comparison with new plazmaman pro series gtr cooler when I get around to fitting it
Sure a plazmaman pro series is much better than a return flow cooler but that's not the limiting factor here. Plenty people here have made reasonable power with them without running into the issues op here has.

I'd bet quids on it being the wrong pistons. I have seen it done before (I think it was Dave B with his S2 who tried everything but ended up being an engine out job to fit another set of pistons)  and it seems the correct pistons have to be a custom order as they are hard to find in stock anywhere. Do a compression test  - that will cost you nothing and give you an instant answer

2 hours ago, KiwiRS4T said:

I'd bet quids on it being the wrong pistons. I have seen it done before (I think it was Dave B with his S2 who tried everything but ended up being an engine out job to fit another set of pistons)  and it seems the correct pistons have to be a custom order as they are hard to find in stock anywhere. Do a compression test  - that will cost you nothing and give you an instant answer

Yeah we are doin a comp test as soon as ecu is back in car, as well as changing the cas contraption on front of engine, and hopefully either of those will be a steer in the direction of the issue 

 

  • Like 1
5 minutes ago, Ben C34 said:

You don't need an ecu to do a comp test. Even better to do it now with it removed as injectors won't spay fuel.

Fair enough, ecu is on way back from Nistune so should be in the hand either tomorrow or Friday 

5 minutes ago, KiwiRS4T said:

So how did the compression test go?

I've been at work all weekend so I dunno, will be calling the workshop tomorrow to see if it's been done, dropped off the ecu on Friday morning and they were going to be spannering on it that arvo, so am hoping it's been tested etc

On 6/23/2019 at 7:33 PM, oxford1327 said:

I've been at work all weekend so I dunno, will be calling the workshop tomorrow to see if it's been done, dropped off the ecu on Friday morning and they were going to be spannering on it that arvo, so am hoping it's been tested etc

They don't like what they found and are avoiding you?

4 hours ago, KiwiRS4T said:

They don't like what they found and are avoiding you?

Nah not at all, engine is running again as of last night, new flex fuel pump and lines, adjustable reg, hardwire kit etc etc were all fitted yesterday, so now the testing will commence. 

And I thought I was half impatient, jeebus  Hahahah KiwiRS4T you're keener than me!, but I spose I'm half dreading the outcome since it could possibly be a wallet drainer.... ? 

  • Like 1
15 minutes ago, oxford1327 said:

possibly be a wallet drainer.... ? 

The joys of owning a 90s JDM car lol

All this work and a BMW 135i with a reflash will be faster (I'll stop talking about Golfs because people get upset).

Don't worry, I'm just as delusional, I built a R33 I hate driving.

  • Like 1
5 hours ago, oxford1327 said:

Nah not at all, engine is running again as of last night, new flex fuel pump and lines, adjustable reg, hardwire kit etc etc were all fitted yesterday, so now the testing will commence. 

And I thought I was half impatient, jeebus  Hahahah KiwiRS4T you're keener than me!, but I spose I'm half dreading the outcome since it could possibly be a wallet drainer.... ? 

If you have got very high compression you may be able to get away with it with E85 and a good tune.  Talking about wallet drainers over 5 years I spent over $40,000 on a C34 Stagea - I could get quite a good RS6 for that now!

  • Like 1
  • Haha 2
2 hours ago, KiwiRS4T said:

If you have got very high compression you may be able to get away with it with E85 and a good tune.  Talking about wallet drainers over 5 years I spent over $40,000 on a C34 Stagea - I could get quite a good RS6 for that now!

I'd love an audi rs6 but I'm not bulk rich, so the stagea is as close as I'll get ha ha ha, and yeah fully agree that if I added it all up between car and bikes over the years it'd be a comfortable house ?

  • Like 1
  • 4 weeks later...

finally have an update after what seems like for-bloody-ever!!!!

thankfully the car is now taking timing and we think it was a combination of a dodgy AFM (bosch rip-off) and the CAS on the front of the motor not reading correctly and confusing each other .

the Bosch AFM was purchased from a reputable parts company for just under $300, so they are going to take it back and assess it to see whether it is a dodgy unit or just a plain out and out rip-off unit that snuck through from their supply chain.

several other OEM Jecs AFM units were tried, but as they are no longer available through nissan the units were all second hand, and took a few goes to get one that was reading correctly, had one that was leaning out real bad, another that just flat out threw codes, and finally on the 3rd go we stole the one of the tuners own R32 and used it for now to get the car at least half way tuned.

picked up the car today so that i can drive it while the tuners missus goes in to have their kidlet, then once hes back on deck we can get the tune finished off for both 98 and the sugar juice E85, for the most part the E85 tuning is done with a few different dilution ratios, but so far the thing is a frickin rocket compared to before, it is holding 20+ psi no problem and pulling like a train, so cant wait to see how it goes once the tune is all tickled up.

now all i am pondering is whether to keep the factory airbox with the K+N panel filter, or go to a boxed pod, as it has the pod on at the moment and am liking the flutter hahahaha, can anybody point me in the right direction for a pod box that isnt too much of a turd to fit?

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, thumbsup from me. The distant shot of the bay just looks same-same as before.
    • Dad had a court case drag out with them from 1998 to 2004. He was in a not at fault accident, NRMA were the ones who covered the other person. They tried to blame his neck injuries on the fact he'd had an injury in 1981 on his extreme lower back where he slipped a single disc right near the bottom. Had been all cleared from that injury for years. This accident destroyed his shoulder, and f**ked a heap of discs in his neck, and he still has major problems with it to this day. Sarah's sister while on her L plates had a small Suzuki Alto, she had stopped to give way to an ambulance, and someone changed lanes behind her because there lane was also slowing, and rear ended her at 80km/h. (She had been stopped for a few seconds already too!). Car was completely f**kED. NRMA sent the vehicle around to 3 different workshops as they kept claiming "We believe it can be repaired, and not written off, we just need to find the correct workshop". It took 3 months, and a lot of arguing before they'd concede and wrote it and paid out. About two years later her sister had a Lancer, someone pulled out of a stop sign without stopping (in an 80 zone). Her sister swerved, hit the front of the other persons car (Instead of dead t-boning the drivers door), which ramped her Lancer, and made it roll multiple times down the road. It hit every panel on the way through. Her sister had slid her self out of the car, and remembers the ambos walking to the accident (They'd been sitting at a set of lights just down the road and witnessed it) and they were saying "Well, this ones going to be a fatality, no way you can walk away from that". Well, she did. And then NRMA sent two assessors out to look at the car, both of which wrote it off. They tried to send another assessor out, except a HUGE uproar was raised, and they FINALLY paid it out. That was on a car, that had damage to EVERY panel, you could see from 100m away the whole car was also twisted, roof bowed etc. Nah, we'll try get out of needing to payout on a $10,000 car... Her sister ended up with major shoulder reconstructive surgery being required, and was permanently limited in her ability to do her job as a nurse after that, as she can't (And was told before surgery too this would be guaranteed to happen) regain full strength in that shoulder. However, there was no choice to not have it, as she could barely use her arm, which was her dominant one, and was in near constant major pain. (And she's the type of person that would try and walk off a broken leg!) NRMA did the biggest run around on the personal injury side too for about 18 months, even to the point of trying to put 100% blame of the accident on Sarah's sister, even though the other driver admitted she didn't look, and didn't stop, and was charged by the police. Sarah used to have a Barina insured with them. It was a policy setup, paid all 12 months in advance. At the end of the 12 months, Sarah was living with me, I reviewed the renewal, it clearly stated "If you do nothing, your policy will cease on XYZ date". We did nothing, as we moved her insurance in with all of mine and I was with Shannons. We find out 10 months later, NRMA decided, because he DAD had a car insurance policy at the same address as what Sarah's mailing address was (Garaged address had been changed), that they'd put Sarah's (What should have been non existent policy) onto her Dad's month to month charges on his credit card. We had to jump through hoops, to get a refund. They didn't care that we actually found the letter that said "If you do nothing, your policy will cease" they made us prove we had NON COMPULSORY insurance else where before they'd issue the refund, and after they agreed to the refund, it still took another 6 weeks and 3 more phone calls for them to actually process it. They also had two insurance claims from storm damage, and they were an absolute cluster to get resolved as well (one vehicle, one house). Some how, up until about 3 years ago, her parents were still loyal to NRMA too, and we were like "How the hell are you so loyal to staying with them, when other places are so much cheaper, and they've f**ked you over every time you've ever had to make a claim?"
    • I got the four AN10 fitting welded up to the cam covers and started up making the head to sump breather/drain lines. The front passenger side cover I used a 45 up top and a 90 at the bottom into the stock VCT head drain spot (3/4" BPST to AN10 adapter) thats unused on the RB25DET NEO with some speedflow flame shield to protect it from the manifolds heat.   back passenger side was a 90 up top with some flame shield and 45 at the sump end. The rear drivers is 45 at both ends   the front drivers fitting is capped off for now but ready to go if i want to try moving the breathers around. I was told by the fabricator to leave all the welds raw for now to make sure there are no pin hole leaks. A lot of cleaning up, re bundling looms and degreasing to go as well as final assembly on the cam cover baffles. The first real test will be 28th March at a Circuit event. added complexity and more spots for leaks but overall looks relatively neat imo
    • Yeah i think the dash needs to come out. To get the loom or maybe just climate control and radio cluster. My mirrors are done i think the motors don’t work so well after flood haha i need the ac fan, you said you wanted to keep it for your 31 and interior loom not including boot. The wiper motor. I’m not sure how good the window surrounds are on the exterior on the pintara.  I will message you to get your bank details shortly 
    • Just another barrier put up to stop cars being modified. When we're all driving Chinese sewing machines, you won't want to modify it anyway, and you'll likely already have slashed your wrists and be locked up in a padded room for your own protection.
×
×
  • Create New...