Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok everyone and anyone... I need some help!!

ive got a rb25de bottom end I was planning on using to replace my det after spinning a bearing and ring failure. I’ve had a fair look online and I’m getting a lot of conflicting info about this. 

I understand I need oil and water lines tapped into block, which is done. .from what I have read it’s not absolutely necessary to fit oil squirters- and I wasn’t planning on it. 

What I cannot find is a solid and answer about pistons.  Do I need to replace the de pistons with the det ones. I’m using the head from det but have read a few things about valve clearances. I’m also not sure how this will effect compression 

 

if if someone knows what I need to do I’d appreciate some guidance

 

thanks 

Your questions are something that you can measure yourself. Piston to valve clearance can be measured and the compression ratio can also be calculated after you guessed it, taking the correct measurements. 

After going through this nightmare of a failed ringland and spun bearing, do you really want to use another cast piston and risk another ringland failure? I'd strongly consider picking up some forged pistons, they really aren't that expensive in the grand scheme of things. 

Yes, you have the opportunity to do it right. Do it right.

Having said that....The compression will go up, which may not be a great thing considering how you've gotten to this point in the first place. But I wouldn't worry about valve-piston clearances. It's not like the turbo valves do anything different to the NA valves.  Up-down at the same times, etc.

Your both completelyright.. unfortunately in the past 4 weeks I’ve had my bike stolen and my patrol rolled so this is the last of my vehicles...

i was planning on taking a few months to rebuild other bottom end while it’s out: forged rods and pistons/ new sets of bearings and all that jazz:: but I need this thing back on the road before Tuesday... 

Not sure if this is an option;

1. drop in a good wrecker motor. get yourself up and running again. 

2. build the original motor in spare time. 

3. sell wrecker motor, hopefully reclaim most of the original money invested.

4. drop in forged motor.  

Pretty shitty run of luck you've had lately, hopefully things pick up for you and the bike it found in one piece. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • CTIS (Central Tire Inflation System) has existed since the 80's. I'm looking into buying a Hummer H1 and they generally included it. 
    • My idle is set at 950rpm though - Moving the timing around 20 degrees is not really what I'd call a calm idle. That said... neither is chop, by definition. The LS ECU likes to adjust timing to hold idle as opposed to air. It'd work, but generally speaking there'd be a discrepancy in the base idle and the IACV would want to move the timing around anyway to maintain said idle. I think I'm just going to keep the timing steady anyway. Preserve my engine mounts.  My aircon is now officially regassed. As the guy was reversing I noticed my reverse lights do not operate, along with my reverse cam. This is a bit distressing, because 100% of guides talk about which wire to connect to backup cams as "the goes with the [other color] wire". Often when doing conversions. Unfortunately the R34 colour wires aren't documented Unfortunately I had a T56 Magnum gearbox with it's reverse switch, which also isn't documented. Unfortunately there's definitely not documentation for people with both of these in the one car. Unfortunately I forgot. After many hours of this, I have a reverse cam and reverse lights again. The wire going through the trans tunnel to the reverse switch had broken. Upon inspection, it looks like this one wire had about 7 spade terminals and extensions in it.. for reasons I cannot possibly comprehend. I also spent the 750 hours required to clean up the wiring behind my head unit which now looks like this: This is a monumental improvement relative to what used to be there WRT triple gauges, head unit, traction control, wideband controller, and whatever the f**k OEM stuff still exists there in various states of connectivity/needed. Next step is to check in at the Exhaust shop to see/confirm how much clearance I have, to decide what mid mufflers or 'resonators' (which are just straight through, narrower mufflers) I can add and hopefully cut out a lot of exhaust leaks, pinhole, v-band or otherwise. But first step will be to 'take a look' before the next step.
    • Fark the AFM card and Nistune, Haltech Nexus S3, DBW, cruise control, flex fuel, dis dat.  
    • It's most likely the bolt/bush where the cover bolts back wore and allowed cover to move forward.
    • Still haven't put the injectors and R35 AFM in so we can tune the bloody thing for the HG highflow it got mid last year! I think I can forecast the upgrade path to a bigger twin scroll, external gate, Haltech, flex setup, Samsonas, dis dat, etc will be .... a while away!
×
×
  • Create New...