Is my planned setup overkill?

[Frozengrip]

Wow you guys really went into depth ! Was out for a few days lol. From what I newly learned and understood is a “head drain” is essentially to relief pressure from the crankcase gases going up thru all the engines holes and making it easier for oil to drain back , correct ?

Now I do have one fitting on the extended sump already. Is it necessary to make another one? One line tee’ d off to the sump and to the intake.

Them the other like to the covers ? Would this way work ?

still need to buy some other bits like the crank collar and the correct size oil restrictors. I’m in the states so it’s a little more difficult to source rb parts out but I think as we got more rb cars imported people are really getting more into them. Anyways my solid goal is to make my car as reliable as I can to have as much seat time as I can. Now need to buy some more maintenance bits and turbo and manifold and we’re off to go. 

Thank you everyone for the input !

 

 

P.s I’ll give these sard injectors a chance this season and see how they act up. But will be getting some modern ones later on. Just on a budget lol. 

Edited July 20, 2019 by Frozengrip

[joshuaho96]

When you can I would definitely consider getting some Bosch 040 injectors, those will be a lot better for spray pattern, atomization, and accurate flow control as long as you stay within ~OEM parameters i.e. ~3-4 bar differential fuel pressure, ~12-14V supply. NZEFI sells them for a pretty fair price.

If the goal is to help relieve pressure you probably should route from the top of sump in the spot where crankcase pressure is highest to a PCV valve then T into the plumbing back to the intake. I suspect the reason why most people route the line into the head is actually to use the PCV valve, otherwise you will start pulling oil into the intake at idle due to high vacuum.

If you are going for full drift I would seriously consider a dry sump system. Wet sump works for street cars but if you are going to be at high revs and pulling high Gs you will ventilate the block at some point even with the best wet sump setup possible.

[KiwiRS4T]

6 hours ago, joshuaho96 said:

 

If the goal is to help relieve pressure you probably should route from the top of sump in the spot where crankcase pressure is highest to a PCV valve then T into the plumbing back to the intake. I suspect the reason why most people route the line into the head is actually to use the PCV valve, otherwise you will start pulling oil into the intake at idle due to high vacuum.

 

Yes you need to ventilate the crank case but you need to employ an air/oil separator or catch can or both. Read say the last half of the oil control thread to see what people have actually done to achieve comprehensive oil control. A dry sump system is ideal but an expense that can be avoided even by dedicated drift machines with the proper measures.