Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm looking to buy this wagon and wondering if the community can help with some questions.

1. Anything to look out for during a pre-sale inspection?

2. Looking at the parts list thread, am I correct in saying parts for general/regular maintenance (change oil/brake pads) are easy to get hold off?

3. What are weak parts of these cars if any?

4. Fuel mileage for someone who doesn't have a heavy foot?

5. Is the boot as big as a commodore wagon?

Thank you in advance!

Edited by mrjayviper
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/477815-looking-to-buy-a-stagea/
Share on other sites

I'm looking to buy this wagon and wondering if the community can help with some questions.
1. Anything to look out for during a pre-sale inspection?
2. Looking at the parts list thread, am I correct in saying parts for general/regular maintenance (change oil/brake pads) are easy to get hold off?
3. What are weak parts of these cars if any?
4. Fuel mileage for someone who doesn't have a heavy foot?
5. Is the boot as big as a commodore wagon?
Thank you in advance!

1-Check for rust under the mirrors
2-Parts are easy to get
3-Stagea brakes are a let down but most have a 4 spot Nissan upgrade
4-fuel mileage isn’t that bad I average 400-450 per tank
5-much bigger than a commodore wagon. ( and cooler )
  • Thanks 1
1 hour ago, mrjayviper said:

I'm looking to buy this wagon and wondering if the community can help with some questions.

1. Anything to look out for during a pre-sale inspection?

2. Looking at the parts list thread, am I correct in saying parts for general/regular maintenance (change oil/brake pads) are easy to get hold off?

3. What are weak parts of these cars if any?

4. Fuel mileage for someone who doesn't have a heavy foot?

5. Is the boot as big as a commodore wagon?

Thank you in advance!

When you say "this" wagon was there supposed to be a photo or a link? If not what model are you interested in?

1 hour ago, RBW49N said:


1-Check for rust under the mirrors
2-Parts are easy to get
3-Stagea brakes are a let down but most have a 4 spot Nissan upgrade
4-fuel mileage isn’t that bad I average 400-450 per tank
5-much bigger than a commodore wagon. ( and cooler )

The rear view side mirrors? Any reason for the rest there? Thanks

Edited by mrjayviper

I most I have Put in was 58 litres
And the watergate refs on foam order the mirror and they rust there it’s pretty common

And the water gets on foam under the mirror and they start to rust there it’s pretty common.

I should read what I type before posting
  • Like 1
44 minutes ago, RBW49N said:


And the water gets on foam under the mirror and they start to rust there it’s pretty common.

I should read what I type before posting

another questions please. You mentioned the brakes are a letdown. are you saying it's better to change the calipers to the 4 piston caliper? Thanks again!

There is a huge difference between the C34 and M35 Stageas - chalk and cheese.

Read the thread above this one helpfully titled "Buyer's Guide -the C34 Stagea" and then a bit further up

"Summary of the M35 info Uber Thread"

There is a huge difference between the C34 and M35 Stageas - chalk and cheese.
Read the thread above this one helpfully titled "Buyer's Guide -the C34 Stagea" and then a bit further up
"Summary of the M35 info Uber Thread"

I just thought he would be looking at the best ones. C34
  • Haha 1
33 minutes ago, KiwiRS4T said:

This was my 3rd C34

Stagea 2014 M35 Wheels.jpg

Love it :) (both the colour, and that it was your third :) )

They also came in a very light green and a two tone light green....but that is the green I meant.

And I know I sound indecisive, but I also love that series 2 yellow. It is so understated for a family car, kind of gives away the stagea secret....

  • Like 1
Love it [emoji4] (both the colour, and that it was your third [emoji4] )
They also came in a very light green and a two tone light green....but that is the green I meant.
And I know I sound indecisive, but I also love that series 2 yellow. It is so understated for a family car, kind of gives away the stagea secret....

Yellow is the best. My wife thinks not but I like it ?
  • Like 1
  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Very nice - I also have a 92 GTST and hardly see any others around these days
    • When I need something else to edit, I use Movavi. A friend who does video editing on a daily basis recommended me) it's an easy video cutter to use for beginners
    • I need to edit some videos for work but I'm not good at all this. Which video editor can you recommend?
    • I think you're really missing the point. The spec is just the minimum spec that the fuel has to meet. The additive packages can, and do, go above that minimum if the fuel brand feels they need/want to. And so you get BP Ultimate or Shell Ultra (or whatever they call it) making promises to clean your engine better than the standard stuff....simply because they do actually put better additive packages in there. They do not waste special sauce on the plebian fuel if they can avoid it. I didn't say "energy density". I just said "density". That's right, the specific gravity (if you want to use a really shit old imperial description for mass per unit volume). The density being higher indicates a number of things, from reduces oxygen content, to increased numbers of double bonds or cyclic components. That then just happens to flow on to the calorific value on a volume basis being correspondingly higher. The calorific value on a mass basis barely changes, because almost all hydrocarbon materials have a very similar CV per kg. But whatever - the end result is that you do get a bit more energy per litre, which helps to offset some of the sting of the massive price bump over 91. I can go you one better than "I used to work at a fuel station". I had uni lecturers who worked at the Pt Stanvac refinery (at the time they were lecturing, as industry specialist lecturers) who were quite candid about the business. And granted, that was 30+ years ago, and you might note that I have stated above that I think the industry has since collected together near the bottom (quite like ISPs, when you think about it). Oh, did I mention that I am quite literally a combustion engineer? I'm designing (well, actually, trying to avoid designing and trying to make the junior engineer do it) a heavy fuel oil firing system for a cement plant in fricking Iraq, this week. Last week it was natural gas fired this-that. The week before it was LPG fired anode furnaces for a copper smelter (well, the burners for them, not the actual furnaces, which are just big dumb steel). I'm kinda all over fuels.
    • Well my freshly rebuilt RB25DET Neo went bang 1000kms in, completely fried big end bearing in cylinder 1 so bad my engine seized. No knocking or oil pressure issue prior to this happening, all happened within less than a second. Had Nitto oil pump, 8L baffled sump, head drain, oil restrictors, the lot put in to prevent me spinning a bearing like i did to need the rebuild. Mechanic that looked after the works has no idea what caused it. Reckoned it may have been bearing clearance wrong in cylinder 1 we have no idea. Machinist who did the work reckoned it was something on the mechanic. Anyway thats between them, i had no part in it, just paid the money Curiosity question, does the oil system on RB’s go sump > oil pump > filter > around engine? If so, if you had a leak on an oil filter relocation plate, say sump > oil pump > filter > LEAK > around engine would this cause a low oil pressure reading if the sensors was before the filter?   TIA
×
×
  • Create New...