Jump to content
SAU Community

Head Unit Install

Digdug154
 Share

Recommended Posts

Digdug154 Newbie

Digdug154

Posted
Posted

I'm trying to install a new head unit into my 92 GTST, I got the until in but I'm not getting anything from the speakers, I'm pretty sure I have it hooked up right but I read somewhere that the amp in the boot wont operate with a new head unit. I'm trying to avoid rewiring all of the speakers but I'm pretty new to the audio world and any help would be much appreciated. 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/477938-head-unit-install/
Share on other sites
Steve85 Mentor

Steve85

Posted
Posted
I'm trying to install a new head unit into my 92 GTST, I got the until in but I'm not getting anything from the speakers, I'm pretty sure I have it hooked up right but I read somewhere that the amp in the boot wont operate with a new head unit. I'm trying to avoid rewiring all of the speakers but I'm pretty new to the audio world and any help would be much appreciated. 
Sorry to hear you're having troubles.

We're probably going to need more to go on than what you have here. A couple of pics and a hand drwwn diagram would be awesome and also the make and model of your amp and head unit.

Are you getting power to both the amp and head unit right now? And if so what voltages do you see?
Digdug154 Newbie

Digdug154

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)
2 hours ago, Steve85 said:

Sorry to hear you're having troubles.

We're probably going to need more to go on than what you have here. A couple of pics and a hand drwwn diagram would be awesome and also the make and model of your amp and head unit.

Are you getting power to both the amp and head unit right now? And if so what voltages do you see?

I have power at the head, unsure about the amp I will check it when I get home from my little trip. I have 12 volts and a 5v reference at the head. This is the reference I used to write the head unit. It's a lower model kenwood head unit. Not sure of the particular model right now. I ran into this issue then had to leave for a small work trip. 

Screenshot_20190726-061321_Drive.jpg

Edited by Digdug154
  • Like 1
Digdug154 Newbie

Digdug154

Posted
  • Author
Posted
35 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

There are wires that run from the console back to the amp. These can be made to connect to speakers instead.

But FWIW, just get the seats out of the car and put some new speaker cable in.

The stock working doesnt look too good I agree, but I'd  rather do that during winter when I dont want to drive this car. Right now I just want some tunes while I'm cruising this season 

Hcr32typem Enthusiast

Hcr32typem

Posted
Posted (edited)

It's possible the car has the "active speakers" still in the car? Then an aftermarket headunit wouldnt work with the system, since both front speakers and the rear speakers are controlled by individual amps.

The front speakers were an easy replacement, the rear amp can be bypassed pretty easily as well

Edited by Hcr32typem
Digdug154 Newbie

Digdug154

Posted
  • Author
Posted
16 hours ago, Hcr32typem said:

It's possible the car has the "active speakers" still in the car? Then an aftermarket headunit wouldnt work with the system, since both front speakers and the rear speakers are controlled by individual amps.

The front speakers were an easy replacement, the rear amp can be bypassed pretty easily as well

Yes it does have active speakers! How do I bypass those amps properly?

Hcr32typem Enthusiast

Hcr32typem

Posted
Posted
On 7/28/2019 at 6:26 AM, Digdug154 said:

Yes it does have active speakers! How do I bypass those amps properly?

The front speakers should be pretty straight forward the rear takes some cutting and splicing. I'm trying to find the guide I used to bypass the rear amp that runs both rear speakers.

Hcr32typem Enthusiast

Hcr32typem

Posted
Posted

Found the guide I used.

 

I used crimable caps to seal the wires together, left the rest of the plug intact so that I wouldnt have any potential crossed wires. Works fantastically.

I'm running 4x6 in the front and 9" in the back. They're just cheap Dual speakers (cheap American brand) but they sound fantastic compared to the originals whose membrane had disintegrated like 10 years ago haha

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted
4 hours ago, Hcr32typem said:

saudering iron

Now, it's one thing for you Yanks to say "soddering iron" (when it is spelt soldering, and said with the L pronounced like in the word "older", by the original architects of the language, and us Aussies), but it is another thing entirely to spell it the way you weirdos say it! Did you make up the spelling "sauder", or is that actually how some/all of you write it also? If so, where the hell did it come from?


 

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • dbm7
      Shifting questions

      By dbm7 · Posted

      ...just a note of warning, you shouldn't drive it about with the TCU in limp mode with only 3rd gear available ~ apart from the fact you end up sheering the ATF at the torque converter interface, the high clutch in these isn't especially the strongest, particularly bolted to the RB25DE mill...which is likely a 4AX01 box with lighter duty high clutch (the RB25DET got the bigger high clutch)...be careful out there...
    • Ozdavroz
      RB20 in need of modest love injection

      By Ozdavroz · Posted

      Hoping to do similar mods to my RB20 once I get it running and reliable again
    • GTSBoy
      RB20 in need of modest love injection

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      As you're looking at using a Link ECU, then large injectors are not a problem. But there's not really any need to go 1000s on an RB20 unless you're planning >>600HP on E85, which would seem unlikely. There are other options for injectors. The Xspurt ones are available from a number of places and you can get them in the mid 600s and 725cc, which is probably a sensible place to be. These are all EV14 based. If you are not using the stock AFM (at all, which would be the case with a Link) then a large turbo intake pipe to suit the ATR turbos is not an obstacle, so you should use one instead of a highflow. Results will be better.
    • QB6SAGR
      RB20 in need of modest love injection

      By QB6SAGR · Posted

      Hey guys,  I'm after some advice and this here is the best place to get it imo. I was a member a looong time ago under another account, with a lost email address. Its nice to jump back on and see some of the same names still giving good advice.  I mothballed my car when i moved to perth in 2013, and after getting towed across the nullabor a few times it has officially done more km's on a trailer than under its own power. Now that i have started the process of tidying up and modifying it, i see the fruit available (and the fruiterers selling the produce) is different than back in the day. hence my questions, as i used to 'know' what to get and now, i'm not so sure. Engine wise the car (92 gtst) has a walbro 255, k+n, fmic, cam gears and and turbo back 3"exhaust. Wish list is a Hypergear high flow or ATR43G1, Link G4x and some newer injectors before a tune up. My goals are modest, only low 200's power wise. i know i could achieve this with less, but i've been swapping out old for new where i can. Every cooling hose has been replaced, along with mani gaskets, WP, thermostat and radiator, fuel pump and timing belt, tensioner and idler, and i rebuilt the steering rack. Regarding the injectors, the fruiterers all seem to sell what used to be considered quite large injectors. There are a lot of options for bosch 1000cc EV14's, and i would like to know if that is a suitable choice for my build. Is modern injector design good enough to run these at the low duty cycles that i likely would be? is there a downside to running a too large injector these days? or, would there be an upside to running a smaller injector at higher duty cycle? I can see that there are smaller injectors still available, but the ones i have seen specifically marketed for RB's are pretty large (see: https://golebysparts.au/collections/fuel-rail-injector-kits/products/nissan-rb20-fuel-rail-bosch-980cc-1150cc-injectors-turbosmart-fpr800-regulator-kit), and i dont know enough about them to say one not marketed for RB's would fit or not. I have searched the forums, and amongst all the posts on older tech, I did see gtsboy recommend EV14's, but no size was mentioned... again, i'm not clear on if the smaller size bosch injectors are also EV14's as they do look similar.  also, if someone can recommend a tuner familiar with RB's in the Geelong or West Melbourne area i'd appreciate it. Thanks in advance guys. Cheers, Rowdy  
    • Duncan
      R33 GTR lift points for hoist

      By Duncan · Posted

      FWIW the depth of the groove in the rubber pad is not super essential, the blocks are rubber and squish a bit. If you are worried an angle grinder will make a deeper groove quick smart
×
×
  • Create New...