Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I did plan to measure the combustion chamber on the de neo head but simply forgot, i would expect them to cc the same as det neo.

I used the runners from det neo with a plazmaman intake, only because i already had it setup on a built motor in the car previously 

  • Like 1
8 minutes ago, Dil-Dog said:

@NEO25T did a CNC machine do that?

Nah this was full budget this time round i just opened them up with die grinder, no machining done at all. I just cleaned and measured everything, light hone on the block, cleaned everything again, and again, slapped in some valve stem seals and threw it together.

  • Like 1

@NEO25T wow bro that is really beautiful,  so did a cnc machine "port" your head to the bigger DET holes? what coil packs are you running? is that timing belt cover from a series 2, because it looks like the steel ones and not the plastic NEO ones? and LASTLY, for you catch can, what the fittings you used to fit in the standard holes in the valve covers? i know its AN but can you explain how you made it work, i would like to do the same as well

 

6 hours ago, Dil-Dog said:

@NEO25T wow bro that is really beautiful,  so did a cnc machine "port" your head to the bigger DET holes? what coil packs are you running? is that timing belt cover from a series 2, because it looks like the steel ones and not the plastic NEO ones? and LASTLY, for you catch can, what the fittings you used to fit in the standard holes in the valve covers? i know its AN but can you explain how you made it work, i would like to do the same as well

 

Nah it was all done by hand with die grinder, just traced the gasket. I didnt take many pics but started by knife edging the divider then slightly open the bowls to same size as the seats, smoothed the radius of the short turn and slightly opened the ports to same size as det head then just blended it out to the marks from the gasket, i dont think id like to see any flow bench results lol.

Those are r35gtr coils from prp.

Yeah its just a cover from a hydro 25 as i dont like the look of the neo ones, rb20 cam covers on it too.

I did weld fittings in the cam covers on the other motor but these ones um i forget.....

I think those are the standard nissan ones i cut and welded with -12 fittings, you can get them push in to an but the ones i seen were straight so you had to put a 90 degree hose fitting and they stuck up and i didn't like how it looked, ill take a pic if i remember in the next day or 2

  • Thanks 1
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 4 months later...

Just an update for future readers and any one else who may be able to learn from this or wanna do the same.... it works, i put manely h beams and cp turbo neo pistons with acl bearings with no problems. The head cc/size is the same. It is possible to forge a de with det parts 

  • Like 1
  • 6 months later...

Hey all I’m just in the process of building another rb25de neo engine for my car as my current engine didn’t seem to want to make more than 300rwkw but made good midrange 250 at 4000rpm. I’m wondering if u have a before and after Dyno sheet I’m looking to do a freedy intake polished ports , h beam rods, port and polish head and polished chambers, det cams, ARP studs and aim for 370 to 400 I may have to do pistons but can’t find info on max power from a stock piston motor

45 minutes ago, X Drifter said:

Hey all I’m just in the process of building another rb25de neo engine for my car as my current engine didn’t seem to want to make more than 300rwkw but made good midrange 250 at 4000rpm. I’m wondering if u have a before and after Dyno sheet I’m looking to do a freedy intake polished ports , h beam rods, port and polish head and polished chambers, det cams, ARP studs and aim for 370 to 400 I may have to do pistons but can’t find info on max power from a stock piston motor

Why though? Get a different turbo

Well, the DE ports are small, so they will become a restriction on max power long before they would on a DET head. It's not surprising that you start to hit a wall.

Your options are to use a DET head or spend some time/money in digging the extra metal out of the ports. I know which would be easier!

Freddy intake is neither here nor there as far as power is concerned. You will make the power just as easily with a stock plenum. So if you're planning to change it for power reasons, spend the money elsewhere.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, that was one of the things we learned fast in the past with our MX5. When you drive with the top down, you are effectively standing out in the sun, 100% of the time, and not getting in any shade (because roads aren't shaded generally!). Just like standing out in the middle of a field on a sunny 27C day is a bit of a bad plan, so is sitting in a MX5 without sun protection.
    • I also just ordered some Frankenstein bolts and side mounts to fit a hard top Just in case I do find one, basically so it doesn't need to be fixed to the car with only the front latch.......and then gaffa tape to keep it in place for the RTN journey from wherever I get it
    • If your temps are fine now, you probably won't have any issues with where your vents are as they don't look right up at the windscreens high pressure area, so any differences when giving it the beans for extended happy laps would be minimal, but, they should vent heaps when stuck in traffic  Much like how that reverse cowl on my SS let "visible" heat out when stationary, but, because it was basically at the windscreen my coolant temps on the Hwy actually raised because air was being fed into it at speed (110kph), to only come back down to around 90° when I got off the Hwy And your 100% correct about the NC currently not needing vents, but, if I was to add a turbo, and a oil cooler and intercooler in front of the condenserand radiator, and then take it to the track???? It is apparently a recommend requirement if I don't want to worry about coolant or oil temp issues, but, any of the above are possible scenarios, over time As it sits now, with the triple pass radiator and stock air conditioning system, I have absolutely no issues with either temps or air conditioning efficiency, I've been basically daily driving thie car for the last month, both on the Hwy, and peak hour, bumper to bumper traffic, but, that's pretty much expected from basically a standard engine  Talking about no issues daily driving, it was 39° the other day and I was sitting in bumper to bumper traffic on the M5 and then M7, with the top down, and with the air conditioning blowing nice cold air on my feet, balls, and face, well, there was one issue, my head and arms got pretty sun burnt Note to self: leave a hat and sunscreen in the car for such days 🤣
    • I would agree, unless you need something specific to the HV motor/battery side repaired or investigated, any mechanic will be able to perform normal services, but if you prefer, maybe look for a mechanic who regularly services/repairs Nissans, the VQ engines are pretty common in the Nissan lineup.  Sorry, I can't make any suggestions, I don't live in Vic.
    • Some of them keep working fine. 9 out of 10 of them end up causing an absolute misery bleeding the system and get thrown on the workshop floor in a tantrum and never thought about again because they were never really needed and just added crap to the car that we could have done without. Same-same with HICAS, A-LSD, and various other stupidities that over eager 10x engineers thought we had to have.
×
×
  • Create New...