Jump to content
SAU Community

R34 GTT Sedan upgrade!!!


OVA4U
 Share

Recommended Posts

Well I thought I will start a post for my 1998 R34 sedan build. Had the car for a few years and puchased it with only 31XXXk's on the speedo but only just saved up enough to start going all out on a build. Trying to keep it looking as close to stock as possible so to keep the cops away. It is a auto but at the end of the day I drive it easy out on the roads but when I get it on track its a different story. Will eventually go a manual conversion but for now it will do.

Have purchased 

-Blitz FMIC

-xspurt 1000cc injectors

-nismo fuel pump

-nismo engine and transmission mounts

-hypergear high flowed turbo. (housing changed to a 21U from OP6)

-Blitz down pipe 

-Blitz NUR RX cat back exhaust

-HKS EVCS boost controller, boost gauge and turbo timer

-HKS super suction intake

-z32 afm

-NGK platinum injectors gapped to .8

-Tomei HICAS Electrical lock out kit

-EBC brakes (yellow on the front. red on the back)

-Toyo R888r tyres

-Nistune with flex fuel

So this is all the stuff I currently have waiting to go on the car. The boys from Mocha Crown Automotive doing most of the work except for the electrics. That will be me. The nistune and flex fuel wont be done till Trent from chequered tuning gets hold of it but thats at the end of August

It has a pretty wicked sound system. 2 Alpine V12 amps powering 4 Alpine rseries 6" splitters and a Alpine type R 10" sub woofer.

The head unit is a sony explode but doesnt matter when your running a good set of amps.

Well hopefully at the end of this should see a power output of 250-270kwrs. Will post more pics and the results of the dyno tune as well.

Till then take it easy.

 

 

20190815_121514.jpg

20190815_121529.jpg

20190815_121541.jpg

20190815_121554.jpg

20190815_121623.jpg

20190815_121637.jpg

20190815_121650.jpg

20190815_121706.jpg

050.jpg

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

yeah it is the return flow type but when I have the funds will be getting the fmic upgrade to a black one and piping with the relocation of the battery to the boot as well. I just dont want to be cutting any holes out. Going to try and find a good fabricator to do the intake pipe as well as the FMIC piping. Havoc still hasnt gotten back to me though so will try to find someone else.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

As a fellow (former) R34 GTT Auto owner, you may want to consider doing that manual conversion soonner rather than later. 270kw through an untouched auto will obliterate it in short terms. Short terms may include but not be limited to:

"On the Dyno trying to tune the car at all"

It may be worth doing the manual conversion first, before any other mod, given the mod list you have planned here.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Damn Kinkstaah thats not what I wanted to hear especially from you. Saw your thread on sending it off to MV automatics where you got lucky and found someone who knew what they were doing. And how much it cost you in the end and thought against that approach as its 3 times the amount a M/T conversion would cost(unless you can suggest a upgrade less than 2000). The other thought was a t400 A/T and getting the adaptor plate to suit the rb engine. (still upwards of 6000). In any case if its the way the transmission wants to go in style trying to keep up with the torque then....

I salute you automatic transmission LOL. you had a short but good life ???

despicable me animation GIF

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 months later...

Well guys Kinkstaah was right, unfortunately the auto decided to let go during the upgrade process so manual conversion was the only choice. Decided to go the r33 s2 box just because it's younger and decided to throw a mantic twin plate in as well so when I go for more power it's all ready to handle it. The gearbox does need a rebuild as changing from 3rd to 4th, the synchro crunches so I'm guessing it had a hard life.

All up the conversion cost $6100. Would of been $1800 cheaper if I didn't get the new clutch. JMA Automotive in airport west was the guys I got to install it all and they have done an immaculate job. Thanks to Kinkstaah again for the recommendation to them they really know there know there stuff when it comes to Skylines. Here's a few photos of the conversion. Just missing steering wheel and cluster. Probably going nismo cluster and gtr steering wheel when I get the cash. 

Hope to see you guys out and about.

 

20191114_143051.jpg

20191114_143103.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

It is a pricy thing to do, but the truth is a good clutch is important as you use it, I dunno... about 200 times an hour when you think about it..

I paid a little less, but I supplied all of the parts to begin with. To drive in, drive out, with new bits and that it is well worth it. Sadly these days you never know with R33 GTST Gearboxes, a lot of people have started to use Z33/Z34 CD009 gearboxes or others, as these boxes often get used for drifting and the price has gone up.

However the car is going to be so much better for having a manual in it.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 years later...

I just read the topic as I just got my self a 98 R34 Sedan as well. 

I also thought keeping it A/T but after reading your topic I’ll be in a hunt for a M/T swap as well.

Im glad to hear your swap went very well! 

Any advice before I began my Journey? 
 

Thank you! 🙏🏼
 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'd guess it's tricker being in Canada. these days people snapped up the R34 GTT boxes that Nissan reproduced as they were still available new for awhile.

You may have luck with a CD009 350/370z gearbox being USA based. Surely easier* to find than a R33/R34 manual gearbox.

It'll be fine (ish) under stock power, but if you want to upgrade things its worth doing the research and collecting parts in advance. Luckily there's not a lot of smarts to contend with and your upgrade options are limited only by your budget, really.

You'd want to read up on the wiring differences between the N/A and GTT with regards to the autobox. If you can read the workshop diagram you will be okay as it's definitely been covered before. If you're going to need a shop to do it though, it may be tricker unless there happens to be a local R chassis shop in Ontario or nearby.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

17 minutes ago, Kinkstaah said:

I'd guess it's tricker being in Canada. these days people snapped up the R34 GTT boxes that Nissan reproduced as they were still available new for awhile.

You may have luck with a CD009 350/370z gearbox being USA based. Surely easier* to find than a R33/R34 manual gearbox.

It'll be fine (ish) under stock power, but if you want to upgrade things its worth doing the research and collecting parts in advance. Luckily there's not a lot of smarts to contend with and your upgrade options are limited only by your budget, really.

You'd want to read up on the wiring differences between the N/A and GTT with regards to the autobox. If you can read the workshop diagram you will be okay as it's definitely been covered before. If you're going to need a shop to do it though, it may be tricker unless there happens to be a local R chassis shop in Ontario or nearby.

Thank you! 🙏🏼🙂

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The two diagrams are equivalent. The R32 one is just one sheet out of about 3 showing everything in the whole car all at once. And without knowing the functionality that occurs in the modules, they are both equally opaque.
    • 8v - 2.48ms 9v - 2.15ms 10v - 1.74ms 11v - 1.41ms 12v - 1.15ms 13v - 0.99ms 14v - 0.89ms 15v - 0.82ms 16v - 0.81ms I'm running these values on my RB20 Neo with 570cc Denso R35 stock jets and it's great. Also bought a set for my Legnum VR4, love these injectors!
    • Thanks for your reply,  Those blue/green wires running to the actuator aren't attached to anything, so I'm not sure how the central locking is still working. I will have to take a good look tomorrow, I don't have the car with me. After googling it seems like a pretty common aftermarket actuator which even uses the same green/blue wires the immobiliser required. i'll test everything tomorrow and if it's working i'll melt the solder, strip it, resolder and neaten it all up with some heat shrink. I don't have to understand it if it works hahaha I just don't want a fire/ short circuit. That R32 diagram looks more like a continuity chart? Can you make sense of this form the R34 manual? 10V is probably due to very flat battery, i'll recheck as well tomorrow, I did have to jump start it haha. Thanks again!  
    • So, COM doesn't mean comms. It means common. What common itself means will depend on the type of device. For a two directional actuator (ie, one that can push and pull on the same output rod) then the common will typically just be the earth connection. There will be at least 2 other wires. If you put 12V on one of the other wires, then the actuator will push. On the other 12V wire, it will pull. Can't quite make out what is going on with the wiring of your actuator. It appears to have several wires at the actuator plug, but there only appears to be 2 wires where its loom approaches the door control module, with at least one of the others cut off. I don't know these actuators off by heart. I'd have to look at a wiring diagram for one before knowing what the wires were about, and that's despite me having to replace one in my car not all that long ago. Just not interesting enough to have dedicated memory set aside for trivia like that any more. That actuator is an aftermarket one, not the original one, which probably died and was replaced. That might require some sort of bodge job on wiring to make it work. Although nothing should justify the bodginess of the bodge job done. As to the soldering job on the door module's loom plug. Ahhahhahaha. Yes, very nasty. Again, I cant tell you what any of those wires do. You'd need to study the R34 wiring diagram (if you can find one that shows the door module). I don't think I have any. I'd have to study the R32 diagram to start to understand what mine is doing, and again, even though I've had a problem with mine for the last 25 years (where it locks the passenger door when the driver's window reaches top or bottom of travel) I'm just not interested enough to try to to work it out. So long as it's not burning down, it's fine with me. Here's the R32 GTR diagram, which, confusingly, has rear door lock actuators and window motors on it!! As you can see, unless you understand the functions of the door lock timer and the power window amplifier, you'll never be able to work out how it works just from the diagram. I don't imagine that the R34 one is any better. Hopefully an R34 aware bod can help. FWIW, the two wires that are cut and joined look like they are both power supply - so hopefully it is not fatal to join them. The 10V you measured on the cut off free end of one of them is concerning. You'd expect 12V, and it might be the reason for the bodge job joining them together.
×
×
  • Create New...