Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey team. 

I recently bought a 1998 R34 which has been 25DE swapped from factory 20. Had some running issues so started doing some digging. The ecu says it’s a 23740 AA010. The closest I’ve found to that is a 23710 AA010 which says it’s for a 20DE. So just wanting to confirm ecu is correct for a 25. Next hurdle i hit was engine number. I got 2 numbers on the bottom passengers side of the block. First which I believe to be the number in need is 5L3 but can’t seem to match this to anything. The second is 90188 not sure if this helps any. 

 

Any my help would be appreciated cheers guys

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/478436-block-and-ecu-id-help-please/
Share on other sites

According to this site

http://jp-carparts.com/nissan/partlist.php?maker=nissan&type=81&cartype=&fig=226

your ecu is for an RB20DE auto AWD

That is not to say that this is the cause of your running problems.

1 hour ago, KiwiRS4T said:

According to this site

http://jp-carparts.com/nissan/partlist.php?maker=nissan&type=81&cartype=&fig=226

your ecu is for an RB20DE auto AWD

That is not to say that this is the cause of your running problems.

Thanks mate. Now just need to figure out the engine number. I would assume the fuel and air mapping would be different between a 20 and a 25. So would possibly make it run a bit average 

How about you check your actual engine number ? You know on the drivers side towards the front, it will start with RB something. Rusty nuts sounds like he's right as I've never heard of an 5L3 block. There is a 5L7 stagea block that appears to be a 25 though.

The fact that the ecu is not original but for an AWD auto would support the theory that its from a Stagea  and an RB20 at that. You would think that if it came from an RB25 the matching ecu would have been fitted.

I'm not theorizing or guessing, Nissan make it easy for us when it comes to block part numbers, the 6th 7th and 8th numbers are the casting numbers, no guesses or theories required. The part number of this block is 110005L300    RB20DE

7 hours ago, Hazzid69 said:

The ecu says it’s a 23740 AA010

This ECU is from a HR34 Skyline N/A RB20DE auto 4speed 2WD NON-HICAS. So correct for the RB20DE you have. If your R34 is built after May 1998 then it is the ECU that came with your car.

Edited by Rusty Nuts

I am sure Steve is right. But if they haven't been messed with the RB20DE injectors should be yellow (RB25DE should be red) .

If you can find a way to measure it the 25 stroke is 2mm more than the 20 at 71.7 (the 20 is 69.7 and the 25 bore is 86mm and the 20 78mm.Doubt very much anyone would put a 25 head on a 20 but who knows....

So yes I managed to get hold of my mechanic mate that’s built a few rbs and it’s a 20DE neo. So will just have to be a runner while i gather bits and bobs to either drop a 25 or 30det into it. Bit gutted as I only bought it as it was advertised as a 25. Cheers for all your input guys. Such a primo forum 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • One year is a bit concerning. Did you try contacting GSP? It says 5 year warranty on the box if I remember correctly. I'm also running their driveshafts on my S2 Stagea.   You could check the part numbers on Amayama for your year. Here's the link for my 1998 which gives the 39100-23U60 part number. Well, that and 39100-23U70. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/epc/nissan-japan/stagea/wgnc34/6649-rb25det/trans/391 What does it say for yours?
    • I ordered a GSP Front R/H Axle from here - https://justjap.com/products/gsp-premium-front-driveshaft-r-h-nissan-r32-r33-r34-skyline-gtr-stagea-4wd#description It lasted around a year before one of the boots blew out. I'm lowered, but I have GKTech roll center adjusters. One year seems a little premature. I think I'm going to spend the extra money on an OEM cv axle this time. This website - https://tfaspeed.com/collections/nissan-stagea-wgnc34-x-four-parts/products/nissan-stagea-awc34-260rs-rb26-right-front-axle-drive-assembly Makes it sound like the readily available OEM CV axle will only fit 11.1999 Stagea and up (mine is a 2.1997 S1). The JustJap listing didn't mention any years or anything for the GSP axle. Amayama shows '11.1999' and up as well for that part number. As well as 'plastic boot type'. See attached picture. So I guess my question is, does that axle (39100-23U60) really only fit S2 Stagea? It's the front driver side. If it does, I'd love to buy that instead of rolling the dice on another GSP. I've found that OEM one cheaper here: https://www.partsfornissans.com/oem-parts/nismo-jdm-r32-r33-r34-skyline-gtr-r32-gts4-right-front-axle-3910023u60 and here https://www.nissanparts.cc/oem-parts/nismo-shaft-ft-drive-3910023u60 Just a little confused because the JapSpeed listing for the GSP front driver axle doesn't mention any specific years or anything and it fit my S1 Stagea fine. So will 39100-23U60 fit my S1 Stagea even though technically it says '11.1999' and up? What would have changed? Thanks.  
    • Thanks for the info. The only "Issue" I've had with the shifter is I always found the throw between 4th and 6th gear too close. I'm always worried to shift into 4th accidently and sending my motor to the moon. Adam LZ recently came out with a video and stated Serialnine revised their shifters to correct this and will change all the revised parts for 150$. Strangely enough, I contacted Serialnine right after and they denied it and said it's bullshit. I found that strange as he's a distributer. I'll keep this forum post updated on that saga.
    • Yep that is correct. It allows you to adjust the short throw range from what I can tell
    • Car has been running great, I've put about 300km's of break in time on it. First thing that stands out with properly sealing rings is no more noticeable crankcase smell coming out of my catch can. This may seem insignificant, but the constant smell while driving around was infuriating. It's also nice to see my oil level remain stable. Two new issues have developed that I only noticed this weekend though. There's a very noticeable driveline vibration past 100kmh. I only noticed it now as I've been babying it under 100kmh in the backroads. This comes as no surprise as I'm running a one-piece shaft, and I paid zero attention to my driveshaft angle when I put everything back in. I also have a fair bit of voltage drop on hot starts. The starter audibly is forcing. No issues on cold start though. I must not have removed all the paint under my main block ground during assembly. I'll try and take care of both those issues this week once the kids are asleep.  I also received all the parts I was missing for my direct port setup. I will hopefully have pictures of that up soon. I'm hoping to get back on the dyno the week of June 30th as I'll be on vacation. I'm confident I should be able to make north of 500rwkw on pump gas and WMI. I'll go back again later this summer with E98, but I want to confirm my ethanol content sensor is working properly first. I've never seen it read anything but 11%. This makes sense for our 10% ethanol content pump gas here, but I would expect the occasional movement between fill ups. 
×
×
  • Create New...