Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

49 minutes ago, AnalStick said:

so i have read that if the boost restrictor is taken out it should boost up to 1 bar but mine seems to sit between 0 and 7 mmHg, car is all factory minus exhaust 

Does your gauge have x100 on it somewhere? That would be one bar.

19 hours ago, KiwiRS4T said:

Does your gauge have x100 on it somewhere? That would be one bar.

yeah so it has x100 next to it i thought that would already be clarified sorry, but it is sitting between the 0 and +7. isnt that just stock boost

20190322_121336.jpg

35 minutes ago, AnalStick said:

yeah so it has x100 next to it i thought that would already be clarified sorry, but it is sitting between the 0 and +7. isnt that just stock boost

20190322_121336.jpg

Read above for the answer (and get a proper gauge).

So taking the restrictor out gives you about 12.5 psi = 650 mmHg a.k.a. what you're seeing.

My car came with the restrictor out so I don't know what the standard boost is. 8 psi?

Nothing wrong with standard gauge, as long as your car is standard. Boost gauge moving is cool as, I saw my first one as a kid in a Pulsar GTi-R. Had no idea what mmHg was but looked cool.

  • Thanks 1
4 minutes ago, niZmO_Man said:

So taking the restrictor out gives you about 12.5 psi = 650 mmHg a.k.a. what you're seeing.

My car came with the restrictor out so I don't know what the standard boost is. 8 psi?

Nothing wrong with standard gauge, as long as your car is standard. Boost gauge moving is cool as, I saw my first one as a kid in a Pulsar GTi-R. Had no idea what mmHg was but looked cool.

oh okay, thanks mate 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Honda's hybrid system can be easily scaled up to PHEVs. Series hybrid at low speeds, at higher speeds the engine directly drives the wheels but there can still be some power bled off to charge the battery + the electric motor can still provide parallel assistance too. It's really only a question of will at that point. Toyota's PHEVs are selling incredibly well at the moment because of the flexibility. You can run on EV mode when it makes sense, but if you're planning on doing a long highway drive you can still fire up the gas engine and not have to worry about dealing with the rather miserable state of public charging infrastructure.
    • Only reason to keep a MAF on your RB25 is to be able to easily calculate true VE if you know what the factory voltage curve represents in grams per second of flow. Also allows you to do things like pull the original OEM ignition + AFR target tables and use those as a starting point for your base map. Once you're well and truly done tuning though there's no need to retain the MAF.
    • Do you think they'll merge there performance divisions and we'll end up HoMo?
    • Very true, if buying new, I would not get an PP either. Minimum is an Elite 2500, which is also considered outdated. Get something that supports DBW, delete that cable throttle. Best thing I've ever done to the Skyline, next best is refreshing the A/C with a new condenser. It's cold, but not as cold as modern car, but colder than most 90s JDM shit boxes imported into Australia.
    • Haltech have a nice comparison table between the Elite and Nexus models -  https://www.haltech.com/ecu-buyers-guide/ In general, the Nexus is better. Haltech have some nice product videos on their YouTube page, I'd have a look at those and if you're still not confident what way to go, I'd give them a call. They have the best customer support of any company I've dealt with, I'm sure they'll be able to help you out. 
×
×
  • Create New...