Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello All, 

I have a quick question, I just bought some wheels for my 4door skyline, they’re 17x8 +30 and the website I bought them from (figment industries) has a thing where you put your car model in and if it has stock brakes suspension etc in it and it gives you wheels that SHOULD fit. I bought the wheels and when I went to put on the front ones, the wheel spikes hit on the front STOCK brake calipers. I was wondering if anyone else has had this problem and if so how can I fix it or what wheels do I need to get/ specs so the spokes clear the caliper. My stock wheels already are very close to the caliper as is so I’m kind of lost as to what to do. It seems the stock caliper in the front are huge! Thank you guys, I also know that people have put rpf1’s on it because I’ve seen pics of gtst’s with them but idk what specs to get to have them not hit on the spokes

0D4688CE-1FFE-4AF8-897A-45DB9AB007AD.jpeg

4FB5FE88-4D21-42E9-9C80-A0C824E480CB.jpeg

D749C66B-BDB7-4754-8F92-5C4CDF4FAFBD.jpeg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/478488-r32-gtst-stock-brake-clearance/
Share on other sites

57 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

You need a small slip on spacer (at minimum), or a bigger bolt on spacer (because safer) to push the wheel out. But spacers are not a better idea than better wheels.

RPF1s fit fine. 17x8 +35 fit with plenty of clearance to the spoke.

Thanks for the reply! So just to be clear the rpf1’s would clear the brakes? And if I was going to go with spacers I would go with the ones that bolt on and have their own studs but the only thing that scares me about that is that the wheels would poke out too much and rub on the fenders, thoughts?

Spacers are shit. A bolt on is safer, but will definitely push the wheel out at least 10mm, probably 15 for the smallest ones you could get. a 5mm slip on would be the least change to wheel position, but slip ons are not a great idea.

RPF1s definitely fit. The above spec I posted is what is on mine, and they have fit R32 brakes, R33 brakes and now R34 brakes.

  • Thanks 1
3 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

Spacers are shit. A bolt on is safer, but will definitely push the wheel out at least 10mm, probably 15 for the smallest ones you could get. a 5mm slip on would be the least change to wheel position, but slip ons are not a great idea.

RPF1s definitely fit. The above spec I posted is what is on mine, and they have fit R32 brakes, R33 brakes and now R34 brakes.

Oh ok thank you! Do you also have huge brakes in the front ?

8 minutes ago, niZmO_Man said:

Those wheels aren't Enkei, they those Chinese made copies no?
Why not get genuine ROTA? Or better yet, non-stuffed wheels made by original manufacturer?

But yeah, spacers are illegal.

No they aren’t Chinese made copies and they costed a little more than rpf1’s matter of fact (should’ve just gotten rpf1’s I know). I just need to know if 17x8 +35 rpf1’s will clear the stock brakes, the user above already said they would so I’m gonna go with them and cross my fingers and hope they work

1 minute ago, niZmO_Man said:

Wait what? RPF1 are like $1,500 for a set. Why would you get copies with unknown QC? But hey, your car and life.

I just said they’re not copies. And no the ones I got ended up being around 1.2k and the rpf1’s were 1k for the set. 

Okay. Why did you talk about RPF1 then?
What are these mysterious wheels? Cosmic yeah?
Where are they made? What's the background of the manufacturer? What standards/testing do they do?

$1k wheels clears 4 pots and has a long history, or $1.2k wheels that doesn't clear brakes is made where?

 

Doesn't matter, you already bought them. RPF1 easily clears 4 pot brakes. A mate bought a set for his Evo8.

Sounds like you're from USA though, 20mm bolt on spacers and maybe an AR1 rifle should do it.

Just now, niZmO_Man said:

Okay. Why did you talk about RPF1 then?
What are these mysterious wheels? Cosmic yeah?
Where are they made? What's the background of the manufacturer? What standards/testing do they do?

$1k wheels clears 4 pots and has a long history, or $1.2k wheels that doesn't clear brakes is made where?

 

Doesn't matter, you already bought them. RPF1 easily clears 4 pot brakes. A mate bought a set for his Evo8.

Sounds like you're from USA though, 20mm bolt on spacers and maybe an AR1 rifle should do it.

No need to be so condescending. They said theyd trade out my wheels for the rpf1’s and was just looking for confirmation that they’d fit. Thanks for all your help. Be nicer. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • yeah i agree paint match stops it from standing out so much, oh that's actually really good to know i was wondering if it would help with air flow now actually having an outlet in the bonnet. Will have to focus on ducting into and out of the radiator now to make the most of it.
    • I would paint match the whole thing to avoid unwanted attention  I had a similar bonnet, paint matched, on my old R33 GTST, but mine was a fibreglass jobbie made by Blitz in QLD, they work extremely well for radiator efficiency and under bonnet temps
    • Does anyone run this kit with factory plenum? Does the adapter and bosch tb fit under factory strut brace? I wanted to get this setup before going forward facing manifold. Thanks
    • small update time, after always wanting a "cool" looking bonnet for my car and always struggling to find one for the series 2 that i liked and wasn't an insane amount of money. Saw one i liked on RHDjapan from D-speed in Japan the price was very good for a carbon bonnet so good infact i was a little unsure how much i trusted it, decided to bite the bullet and with the help of jesse streeter in not long at all it was at my door. Once it was delivered i ran in from work and quickly unboxed it and to my surprise the quality was actually pretty good i quickly removed the old bonnet and placed on the new one to test it out and even the fitment wasnt too bad at all. Then decided to paint the little grille in the bonnet black to stop it sticking out so much.   I decided to not mess around with the hood latch and just install some aero catch hood pins, having never installed them before did some YouTube university classes and i was good to go. fair to say it is not a fun job at all from making brackets so the pins sit nicely and actually cutting through the bonnet but also being very scared of cutting the holes too big it took wayyyy longer than i would like to admit but finally got it there. Then it was time for a quick test drive to ensure the latches actually worked and thankfully the bonnet looked very stable. I still think paint matching the bonnet and leaving just the part that sticks up as carbon would help make it all look alot neater as im not sure how i feel about all that carbon on a very fridge white car but will leave it as is and see how i feel with time.  
    • I think it's bound to happen, you finally get it all perfect, and bam, something will happen. I took a while to get a Commodore rear quarter repaired where a P Plater clipped it. Two days after getting it back, Sarah wiped it out on a concrete pillar in an underground car park... This is why I take forever to repair them, it stretches how long until it gets bent again... 😛
×
×
  • Create New...