Jump to content
SAU Community

Brake Pads?

ex-static

By ex-static,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

ex-static Grand Master

ex-static

Posted
Posted

Im after decent brake setup for my R33, I know this has been covered in a few other threads. But im not just after a replacement pad, but more of an upgrade.

Im not sure what setup ive got on my car now, but its slowly getting tired with the excessive hard braking, cornering etc that my car is being given on the track, and some mountain climbs.

I'm after something that loves a bit of punishment, and can pull up when it needs to, and also handles well on day to day driving.

I dont care if it covers my wheels in dust, or squeels its head off, as long as it pulls up hard on the standard rotors, and give decent mileage.

So far I've looked into the EBC Green Stuff, Race Brakes, and Bendix Ultimates..

Im heading towards the Bendix atm for the reason ive used them before on my VL Turbo and they were great.. but that was with xdrilledslotted rotors.. so I dont know how they'll pull up on standard discs..

Any feedback would be great.

ex

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/4785-brake-pads/
Share on other sites
Boostzor Grand Master

Boostzor

Posted
Posted

U have em in order of best to worst as far as i can tell but some say that rb74 racebrakes are better than the green stuff i wouldnt know seeing as i have never had rb74's but the green stuff beats the hell outta the bendix. Ive have heard alot about "pagid" pads (correct me if im wrong) these are supposed to be dam good but the price is pretty high.:)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/4785-brake-pads/#findComment-74043
Share on other sites
Robo Community Regular

Robo

Posted
Posted

Hi There,

I only recently replaced the disc rotor's on my r33 gts-t sereis 2, (already have the EBC green stuff pads in). I got the new DBA slotted rottors and they feel great....

I would strongly recommend to get a pair for the front.

Ps, I was told by someone (not that I believe them) that I should get Bendix Ultimates over EBC's???? they are cheaper but what do you guys think?

cheers

Rob

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/4785-brake-pads/#findComment-74059
Share on other sites
Robo Community Regular

Robo

Posted
Posted

The cheapest I could find is at Autospeed (online shop)

DBA926SL

DBA926SR

$586 for the front two... not really that cheap but out of about 5 places they are the cheapest and they will deliver in Australia for free

web site:

www.autospeed.com.au (also a great web site)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/4785-brake-pads/#findComment-74066
Share on other sites
Silver-Arrowz Grand Master

Silver-Arrowz

Posted
Posted

I cooked a set of EBC green stuff on the track. And that's only after 1 day. Good street pad though. Not to hard on rotors.

RB74 is very good for the track. But it is harsh on the rotors. Lasted me about 5 or 6 track days.

Comp 9's are very good. Very harsh on rotors but it will stop when told to. They also don't last very long.

Endless NA-M are almost like EBC Green stuff, but slightly better. Only lasted me 2 track days. But in terms of value for money, the EBC gets it.

Bendix Ultimates are good on the street, but are not made for the track.

Have you got yourself some braided brake lines? Probably best next upgraded on your brakes. If that doesn't satisfy you, then look at bigger rotor or caliper setup.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/4785-brake-pads/#findComment-74092
Share on other sites
Ender Community Regular

Ender

Posted
Posted

I have tried :

rb74's

ebc redstuff

bendix ultimates

and all of them faded when pushed on standard rotors...

Pads which work well on standard rotors are

Ferodo 2500 or 3500 or something..forgotton exactly which exact product number...they really work well on standard rotors but are quite pricey $450 or so i think they were.

and on slotted rotors padgids are great, but not so good on standard rotors.

Hope this helps..

Russ

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/4785-brake-pads/#findComment-74167
Share on other sites
nissaner Mentor

nissaner

Posted
Posted
Originally posted by Silver-Arrowz

Endless NA-M are almost like EBC Green stuff, but slightly better. Only lasted me 2 track days. But in terms of value for money, the EBC gets it.

silver,

how much did u pay for NA-M???

is NA-S one cheaper than NA-M???

i paid $400 for NA-S (front), just want to know if i got ripped off..

and how much is the EBC???

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/4785-brake-pads/#findComment-74283
Share on other sites
Gradenko Mentor

Gradenko

Posted
Posted

When under pessure, RB74s are far better than Ultimates they replaced on my car. I think they're track orientated but don't have any problems pulling up when cold and seem to get better after a few stops. I only do street drivng and in some light motorkahna work, so thats were my experiences are from.

Ultimates were harsh on the rotors and the RB74s don't appear to be any better. Can't tell if they chew the rotors any worse as I've only had them in for a couple of months. With the price that GreenStuff is at and their short lifetime, I'd rather use pads that cost half as much and last much longer but wear the rotors slighlty more.

Braided brake lines are a really good idea, but they don't really offer much braking improvement for the price. UAS want $130 each for their street legal braided brake lines, 4 x 130 is a pretty hefty price. I haven't actually tried braided lines before, so if anyone thinks its worth it, please let us know. Oh, and where can we get street legal lines cheaper?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/4785-brake-pads/#findComment-75477
Share on other sites
MYGTST Collaborator

MYGTST

Posted
Posted

i uses kentek metal pads

they squeal like a pig and are hard on rotors but i have never had them fade on me

and the last set i had lasted 3 days at wakefield (150km per day on track) and 20000ks normal driving

they need a little more pedal pressure but i havent had them fade yet

cost about 180 - 200 a set

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/4785-brake-pads/#findComment-76435
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Shoota_77
      Shoota's R33 GT-R RB30/26

      By Shoota_77 · Posted

      That's a given!  Bit hard to powdercoat it properly without removing them! 😁
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      NC MX5

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      No detail on compressor or turbine sizes, which doesn't help with housing size selection with that kit. However, from SR20DET mucking about and money torching perspective, a GTX2860R Gen 2 w/ 0.64 (46mm inducer) will do ~260kW on E85 about 1.5bar of boost. All in before 3000pm, which cause a gearbox to shatter. Now imagine the same turbo, on a modern motor with an extra 0.5L of displacement, and heaps of cam timing adjustability (not an on/off affair like the Nissan shit boxes). If this was my car (which I would never own or consider buying, ever!), I would go for a nice twin scroll setup, and a G30-660. Gates plumbed back, no silly shit. Lean on the cam timing, big displacement to create a flat-ish torque curve.  
    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      98 mate
    • r32-25t
      NC MX5

      By r32-25t · Posted

      Do you plan on using 98 or e85?
    • GTSBoy
      NC MX5

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      This should be pretty easy. 200rwkW is just about the max power out of an RB25 stock turbo. So, 12ish psi on a 2.5L. That boost limited mainly by the prospect of seeing the turbine in the cat after the smoke show. A steel wheeled equivalent would likely happily do ~220rwkW at something like 17 psi, where it would probably be bumping into the usual limits of such a sized turbo. These things have like a .48 rear. You will not need the 0.86 rear. The 0.64 will be fine. In fact, if you were looking at various mid-200rwkW options for RBs, most of them would be in a 0.64 rear. So, I think you will definitely want to be no bigger than that for a same sized but probably even more efficient (at making power) modern engine.
×
×
  • Create New...