Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all, for sale is my Link G4+ GTRLink

Full specs can be found here: https://www.motorsportwiring.com.au/product-page/link-g4-plugin-nissan-r34-gtr-skyline

I had this professionally installed very shortly before taking the car off the road and stripping for a rotisserie respray.

Would put it back in, but the new build requires a Motec.

Unit is back in its original box and ready for its new owner.

Great computers and currently retailing for $1,900.

Selling for $900 and it’s literally the exact same thing.

I’m based in Canberra, but travel to Sydney at least once a month, so it can also be collected from a Castle Hill if preferred.

Thanks,

Andrew.

4659F120-0AEC-4A34-9862-7011D129C690.jpeg

A8122237-1F88-4561-A399-7B0B893BF9CF.jpeg

176EE550-5D03-49F8-A818-80BFFAEF4305.jpeg

Hey all,

Just took out my Xtreme clutch from my R32. Love this clutch and it hasn’t had more than a couple thousand km’s put on it and car hasn’t been driven hard.

Beautiful to drive, feels very easy, but has heaps of bite when required.

Easily handled 330kw and is only being changed due to impending 1000+hp build.

$650.

I’m based in Canberra, but travel to Sydney monthly, so it can be collected from Castle Hill.

B37B777C-5291-471E-ADC4-64AB45414320.jpeg

FD402DBE-3BBC-4773-A818-2DE306C95B8C.jpeg

9EF5A1D7-F09C-4474-B40B-E14224C1B73D.jpeg

F2496D2B-AE28-43F1-B013-033B42824DBF.jpeg

Hi all,

For sale are my 2 immaculate Garrett 2860R-5’s from my R32GTR. I’ve taken one apart to show the condition of the turbine (first pic).

https://gcg.com.au/petrol-performance/performance-3/turbochargers-garrett-t-gt-series/garrett-gt2860r-turbocharger-aka-gtr-5-s-detail

Turbos are only a few thousand km’s old (never tracked or stressed) and have been delivering an easy 330kw with a very nice power curve.

Only reason for sale is I’m going for a much bigger power build with a big single.

These are currently retailing for $3,200 new.

I also have custom titanium dump pipes and a full 3.5” exhaust, if you’re interested.

Available for pickup in Canberra or Castle Hill or can happily ship at buyers expense.

Thanks,

Andrew.

7419346A-D648-4AB1-B16E-6339EFD1842C.jpeg

5E0CEBFE-CDAC-4688-93BE-33C2AF8AEF35.jpeg

6D5BCEC1-C593-4055-9060-1DDF645754B9.jpeg

  • 1 month later...
  • 3 months later...
  • 1 month later...

hey Andrew, happy to buy those turbos off you if we can work out a price shipped to Canada...I had a -5 bite the dust. pm me if you are interested...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • They are what I will be installing. 640s for me.
    • Hmm... From my experience you get about 0.25° camber change per mm of RUCA length change. So, to correct from -2.5 up to less than -1° (or, more than -1° if you look at the world as a mathematician does) then you'd be making 6-8mm of length change on the RUCA. From a stock length of 308mm, that's 2-2.5% difference in RUCA length. My RUCAs are currently very close to stock length - certainly only 2-3mm different from stock. I had to adjust my tension arms by 6mm to minimise the bump steer. That's 6mm out of 210, which is 2.8%. That's a 2.8% change on those, compared to a <1% change on the RUCAs. So the stock geometry already has worse bump steer than is possible - you can improve it even if you don't change the RUCA length. If you lengthen the RUCAs at all, then you will definitely be adding bump steer. Again, with my car, I recently had an unpleasant amount of bump steer, stemming from a number of things that happened one after another without me having an opportunity to correct for them. I only had to change the tension arm lengths by 1mm to minimise the resulting bump steer. (Granted, I also had to dial out a lot of extra toe-in in the rear, and excessive rear toe-in will make bump steer behaviour worse). Relatively tiny little adjustments having been made - the car is now completely different. Was horrifying how much it wanted to steer from the rear on any significant single wheel bump/dip. And it was even bad on expansion joints on long sweepers on freeway entry/exits, which are notionally hitting both rear wheels at the same time. My point is, the crappy Nissan multilink is quite sensitive to these things (unlike the very nice Toyota suspension!). And I think 99.75% of Skyline owners are blissfully ignorant of what they are driving around on. Sadly, it is a non-trivial exercise to set up to measure and correct bump steer. I am happy to show my rig, which involves nasty chunks of wood bolted to the hub, mirrors, lasers, graph paper targets and other horrors. Just in case anyone wants to see how it is done. I'll just have to set it up to take the photos.
    • What do you have in that bad boy ? Ill go with the 725cc since I'll be going with Nistune ( would definitely like more engine protection but Haltech is too far out of reach at the moment... plus, Ill probably have a pretty safe tune as its a daily, not gonna be chasing peak power 24/7 ahahah ). Are Xspurt a safe choice?  Pete's great. He didnt mention anything about traction arm length so I reckon it may be good. When I get some new wheels/tire later down the road I'll ask him about it and get his opinion on em. I heard from Gary that you've got the bilsteins too, are you running the sway bars too? and what other suspension goodies do you have installed or would recommend?
    • In true Gregging style...  
×
×
  • Create New...