R34 Track/Street Car

[Tobz]

Just a picture of the new rims on the car

[PranK]

Looks fantastic! ?

[Kinkstaah]

 

15 hours ago, Tobz said:

Yep let me know  I’m heading back end of September for a private day with the 86/BRZ club (used to have a supercharged 86)

I often recommend supercharged/lightly turboed 86's around the 200kw mark for being a perfect little combo of track car/fun hill car/daily, at least to the point where one's skillz are the limiting factor which would be the case until you're a GT driver one would think.

How do you feel it stacks up vs your 34?

[Tobz]

1 hour ago, Kinkstaah said:

How do you feel it stacks up vs your 34?

The supercharged 86 was good, very nimble and predictable. But I actually bought an RX8 as a track car before the 34... having an underpowered, NA car was fantastic as it made you focus on getting your braking right and carrying as much speed through the corner and getting on the throttle early. It really taught me heaps and because you don’t have the power it really focuses you on getting the basics right. Also made me really appreciate a hood suspension setup as sway bars, shocks and tyres really brought the times down. Had it for 5 years and then replaced it with the R34.

 

im happy I didn’t go straight to the r34 as the car control I learned in the RX8 has been critical I’m not killing myself!

 

whats annoying though is my time around Wakefield in the RX8 was a 1:11 and I’ve only just matched that in the skyline. So I know I have a lot to learn in the r34 and how to maximise the power.

Edited July 29, 2020 by Tobz

[Kinkstaah]

The reason I asked is cause I noticed you had a pretty serious sim setup, including DD wheel and if you go to that level you quickly realise how much driver mod is a thing, and then noticing where chassis are good and chassis that aren't good tend to shine. Even if it's a sim, but I know you know what I am talking about!

I'm also hoping the R34 isn't just a shit platform, given the 86 and RX8 are generally considered to be excellent.
Please provide re-assurances for various shit life choices, thanks

[Darmanin10]

Hey mate, what brake lines did you end up going with for the evo brembo and alpha omega adapters? 

 

[Tobz]

7 minutes ago, Darmanin10 said:

Hey mate, what brake lines did you end up going with for the evo brembo and alpha omega adapters? 

 

The lines were provided by Alpha Omega, they are a braided stainless line. Work well

[Tobz]

1 hour ago, Kinkstaah said:

The reason I asked is cause I noticed you had a pretty serious sim setup, including DD wheel and if you go to that level you quickly realise how much driver mod is a thing, and then noticing where chassis are good and chassis that aren't good tend to shine. Even if it's a sim, but I know you know what I am talking about!

I'm also hoping the R34 isn't just a shit platform, given the 86 and RX8 are generally considered to be excellent.
Please provide re-assurances for various shit life choices, thanks

Yep the reason I got the sim was to learn the tracks before I go on them  I noticed the sim really helped me learn the tracks and lines and how to use the whole track to get the times down. It just meant when I go to a track day I can just concentrate on the car and not learning the best way around. 
 

and the skyline is great! Currently I got the chassis to feel very similar to the RX8, I was mostly slow at Wakefield as I had no confidence in the brakes... so I was braking way too early

[Tobz]

Latest update is all engine management related.

had a chat to the guys and have decided I am going to make some changes to the engine setup. I don’t think I’ll see any additional power but will hopefully gain some reliability and bring the car into the latest decade.

ill be removing the adaptronic and replacing it with a Haltech 2500. I want to have better built in protection for when things go wrong so the car doesn’t rely on me to spot an issue. The haltech will also be wired in to the usual sensors plus a few additional such as fuel pressure, oil pressure, oil temp and afr.

also upgrading the pump to a walbro 525 and adding a fuel regulator.

finally I’m also going to get drive by wire put in. This isn’t really needed, but I like the flexibility I gain with this.

to top it off I’ve got a gauge cluster being made by 3D racing parts and will pop a Haltech IC7 in there so I can see all the pretty data

super excited for these upgrades! Just a 2 week wait on the ecu though

Edited August 4, 2020 by Tobz

[acsplit]

What adaptronic is in the car?

Remember the keep the stock cluster so speed and few other functions still work.

Reason for going dbw?

[Tobz]

11 hours ago, acsplit said:

What adaptronic is in the car?

Remember the keep the stock cluster so speed and few other functions still work.

Reason for going dbw?

Currently has the adaptronic eMod006, which doesnt have any can functionality

Ill be removing the stock cluster, but the guys assure me they can wire up the speed sensor and such to the IC7

DBW isnt really necessary but i figured if i have the capability to do it, and can remove the standard idle control systems, ill be a happier man. 

[acsplit]

Ok...

Stock Nissan idle control works well but if you want DBW go for it, then it is ready for when you put a sequential in it

Loving the build, I have sent you a pm for the steering wheel guy in SA

[Unzipped Composites]

DBW is MILES better than cable driven, I really don't understand why more people aren't doing it yet. Definitely consider it a necessity and get it done, don't think twice!

[Tobz]

1 hour ago, Unzipped Composites said:

DBW is MILES better than cable driven, I really don't understand why more people aren't doing it yet. Definitely consider it a necessity and get it done, don't think twice!

Are you able to let me know why its miles better? Im defo doing it, and in my head i know i prefer DBW cars vs cable, but i dont know why

[Unzipped Composites]

1 minute ago, Tobz said:

Are you able to let me know why its miles better? Im defo doing it, and in my head i know i prefer DBW cars vs cable, but i dont know why

 

Because it gives the ECU control of the throttle, which opens up possibilities as wide as your imagination. From being able to limit the throttle in certain situations such as overboost or low oil pressure or any other added safety that you want, it adds throttle cut to ignition and fuel cut as a prevention measure. Then the real benefits of things like auto-blipping on downshifts to rev-match, throttle modulation under wheel slip, adjusting the actual responsiveness of the throttle body to assist the driver, cruise control, instant cut-out in an accident, etc. When the ECU has control, you can make it do things faster than any driver can even think about let alone physically do themselves. Cable driven is 'dumb', you literally can't do anything with it that the driver is making it do.

 

The flip-side is that it can be setup badly. So if your tuner doesn't know what they are doing or they just don't set it up well, then you can have lag in the throttle response, or you might get 100% throttle at only 50% of the pedal travel or vise versa, etc. Lots of people will complain about DBW setups, but it always comes down to how it was setup. A well setup DBW is hands down better than cable driven in every way.

[Kinkstaah]

^---- that.

However I chose cable driven in my LS. Why? Cause early DBW kinda suck, and by kinda suck I mean they are slow to respond, programmed not the way you want, etc.

If you get one that responds as fast as your foot does, then there's a lot of possibilities as explained above, other than pedal feel I GUESS.

[Tobz]

@Unzipped Composites Yep ok totally worth it. I’m intrigued by the wheel slip indicator. How hard is that to program in?

 

also with the auto blip does it do it just based off throttle and speed or does it also need a brake and clutch sensor?

Edited August 5, 2020 by Tobz

[Unzipped Composites]

There's lots of ways to do it, some of them are a bit more of a hack job than a well setup system, but it all depends on what your car has as to what logic you use. Obviously the best is to have a brake/clutch pressure sensor, in combination with a strain gauge on the gear lever or a true gear position sensor so that the ECU knows if you are upshifting or downshifting and what gear you are going to be in before the clutch is engaged. This is why it is a bit simpler with a sequential compared to a H-pattern. But you can also somewhat fudge things based on logic using the brake light and a clutch switch vs falling road speed, etc. so it is perfectly possible to setup with a H-pattern as well.

[Tobz]

Got the car back last night. Have to admit the car feels entirely different from before. Not sure if it’s due to the new Haltech 2500 replacing the adaptronic, the new tune or the DBW or a mixture of all 3.

overall car drives well, power comes on early and it feels a lot smoother to drive. Have the Bosch 68mm dbw throttle body and what I believe is an xtrail dbw pedal.

theres a small idle issue the guys will be working on to try and fix. It randomly just increases idle to 2200 rpm and then settles. But shouldn’t be too hard to sort out.

Haven’t done anything special with the dbw yet. But playing with the throttle curve by itself is really good so i can get it working how i want. Also cold and warm starts are so much better. 

Also got a larger catch can. The old one was a bit small  just from just jap, an ARC type can. The guys welded on some AN fittings for me. Also finally put the GTR brake master cylinder on. Felt lazy so got the boys on it

now just need the IC-7 to arrive to finish it all off

i am tempted to get a new turbo, head gasket and arp head studs. Car currently makes around 270rwkw but I’m not sure if it’s the turbo or intercooler holding it back. Tuner reckons it’s the turbo. Currently have the ATR45SAT BB turbo and a blitz return flow. I don’t love the idea of drilling a hole. But it may be required now

also got my tein bonnet struts installed. Only took 5 mins and makes life so much easier!

 

Edited August 21, 2020 by Tobz

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

Nice work! Did you run an auxiliary harness for the DBW or just reused the OEM IACV & TPS wiring?

I don't believe your turbo is out of puff, it's definitely the return flow cooler holding you back.