Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Everyone. 

I have a few questions about front  drive shafts. Has anyone ever used spacers or required and obtained some slightly longer drive shafts?

I want to increase my front camber by pushing the bottom of the wheel outwards about 10mm but when we did that it extended / stretched the driveshaft too much and a blew a driver side shaft taking a left corner at high load on a hill climb. Seems that it pulled the CV apart / out because it was stretched too far. Some have asked me if my mounts are okay - well they are brand new (Everything is new)

The car is a R33 GTR that has been fully built for circuit. I'm pretty sure that R32 / R33 and R34 GTRs all use the same front driveshafts.

I cannot pull the top in anymore unfortunately. Plus filling the guards outwards would be nice and give me more track.

I'm not really a suspension guy. Engine / Tuning is my area so go easy on me if I have said anything stupid.

The main bits underneath are Ikeya Formula so I have a lot of adjustment.

Also Running a quaife front diff and Full Race AWD controller so the AWD definitely gets a hammering.

I have spoken to GKTech and he said they make these for the rear, but I would like to know if they fit the front too. Has anyone ever done this before?



image.png.3976942dad879aecc5166d700f0492ac.png

No photo description available.

Edited by The Mafia
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/478589-r33-gtr-front-shaft-hub-spacers/
Share on other sites

well, I'll start by saying my experience is 32 not 33 gtr.

I have the hub moved a fair way out by spacing out the lower control arm mounting. I don't have the exact measurement handy and don't want to guess.

But the point is, both the bottom of the wheel (and the hub) are a fair way wider than standard, and no I've never had a problem with driveshaft length

Is the piece GKTech making just the black part in the picture or the whole bearing/stub axle part? I could measure up driveshaft diameter front vs rear to confirm diameter fits, and you should check you have sufficient thread on the head of the driveshaft to get the nut on properly if diameter is the same.

I think you'd also have to confirm the ABS sensor still runs across the teeth OK. 

Overall....seems like a lot of work to deal with something that may not be an issue. If it was I'd go custom driveshaft with a longer centre shaft rather than all this stuffing around at the hub

Hi Duncan

Thanks for the reply. 

The only piece that GKtech make is the black spacer:

image.png.3f5211cce41c4974f00808357de2b260.png

 

 

I was just thinking that f the ABS teeth are mounted on the shaft then there will be an issue with the spacers installed. I use the passenger side ABS sensors too as my second wheel speed input. 

This is going to be interesting. I might need to get custom shafts made up. Do you have somewhere you have them made? Or do you just use the drive shaft shop?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • In a few years from now, you'll regret that. It'll eat away at you, knowing the truth of the ugly hiding beneath the beautiful exterior... 😛
    • I don't think the G2 profile is particularly dangerous for the engine per se, more just are you actually ok with the turbo lag trade-offs? If the answer is yes then go for it. I personally don't think I'd be ok with it because I spend so much time at lower RPMs and I really enjoy the feeling of being able to stay in 5th gear on the highway and just roll into the throttle to get boost. Or staying in 3rd gear on "gentle canyon cruises" without feeling the turbo lag too badly. The 525 pump should be able to run flat out on factory lines but I would bet the pressure drop from pump to regulator is quite impressive. I don't know how much it would be exactly but I've seen figures like 30 psi thrown around.
    • It's interesting seeing everyone talk about what level of risk they are happy to tolerate.  Building a GTR always has a level of risk, you could be that lucky guy that drops 20k on the engine build alone and still has the thing go pop on the dyno. Life is fun like that.  The way I see it, the thing is a toy to be enjoyed. I'd be happy to turn up the power on stock motor and limit the risk with sensible tuning and engine protection. If it still goes pop, it is what it is. The car isn't a daily driver so it can happily sit while a plan is made to sort it out.  Given this thing will be a street car only, I really feel it's worth the (relatively small if managed well) risk to turn the power up to around 350KW on e85.  I don't think anyone getting into the skyline game now is doing it out of logic. Surely it is a purely emotional decision so I'm not sure how important it is to think about the engine build logically. The heart wants what it wants.  @joshuaho96 little note for Josh, I run my 525 pump flat out all the time and through the factory lines without any issues. (excluding the melting connectors, that's sorted now. we'll pretend it never happened lol)
    • But the Nexus S3 is very expensive and won't be as purpose-built for the application as a separate electronic boost controller :^) More seriously my pet issue here would be that the Walbro 525 running at 100% duty cycle is going to require more FPR than the stock setup can handle. I'm also pretty sure from what I've seen elsewhere you might want to slow down the pump regardless unless you're going to come up with some way of upsizing the fuel lines coming from the fuel tank. Factory 8mm fuel line doesn't actually flow very much if you want to keep pressure drop down between the fuel pump outlet and FPR. If you really want to "keep it simple" I would run only as much pump as you need and source a fuel pump controller to slow down the pump in the vain hope of being able to run stock-style FPRs which are pretty dinky. Or just use the HICAS lines and it should be mostly fine. OP should also really think hard about what profile they'd want out of the turbo. My pet choice here would be the G1 profile rather than anything higher power but YMMV. I already think ~stock turbo lag is pretty bad so I don't want to make it worse. In "gentle canyon cruising" I found that I spent a lot of time around 4-4.5k RPM. I also recommend DIYing labor if you're detail-oriented enough. Costs are high for labor + if you do it yourself you can be your own quality control.
    • GTSBoy is again on the money. My actual advice? Sell the car. (really). For what it's worth as is, you can sidegrade into something much better. If you care about function then this is the actual move. If you want a Skyline to perform, set aside about $100K to do it. This is NOT a typo. You will see right away these are two very different mindsets. Realistically we're talking full restomod for any Skyline still kicking around. Have an honest think about which one you are.. and what you want to do, and how much you want to invest in this (with no return).
×
×
  • Create New...