Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I am in the early stages of planning my RB30/25 Neo build - still trying to find a good RB30 block, they seem to be getting a little harder to get these days.

This will go into a ER34 which currently has a (tired) RB25DET NEO; but I won't be touching the engine that is in it until I have completed the new engine.

This will very much be a daily driver/gokart and would be quite happy making 350-400rwkw (even that's overkill), full boost at or around 3500rpm (max) would be my preference - I'm considering something like the EFR 8374 or perhaps the next step down.

I've read many of the threads and while there is some talk about these pistons I still have not managed to find a definitive answer for my preferred choice of piston material, 4032 pistons - smaller tolerances - ideally for the longevity, (slightly) improved detonation tolerance (over raw cast) and the fact that I would rather bore out that 25+ year old bore and replace the 25+ year old pistons, it seems logical to go with brand new pistons/rods... well aware of the general consensus that that the stock pistons and rods are good for 300rwkw.

For rods I will probably go with spool import conrods, for pistons it appears only Wossner and Mahle do a piston in 4032.

So my question being, using the RB25DET Neo head (we'll have to assume the head cc at this stage) and having a preference for around 8.75 - 9.0:1 compression ratio - does anyone have any recommendations on exactly which pistons would be required and exactly what work would need to be performed to the block - ie deck height (more so I know what I'm in for, ideally I would like to not have to mess with the deck height significantly more than a skim if avoidable)

Looking at the various catalogs it's very confusing in so much as I often cannot even find the pistons being listed on various retailers sites in the manufacturers catalogs.

 

Edited by lolhax

I'm in a similar boat as you, I spoke with Supertech recently and they advised that around that power level their 4032 forged pistons would need about 4 and a half thou of clearance. 

I'm still looking into other options... I was hoping to run less clearance if I was going to be using 4032 pistons 

Mahle specify a clearance of 0.0016" to 0.0024" (1.6 to 2.4 thou)

Wossner only appear to specify 0.07mm. (2.755 thou)

 

2 thou seems like an acceptable compromise, 2.755+ is getting a bit loose I rekon - what you can't gamble on is.... is this their accuracy confidence or them being excessively cautious. 

Stock clearance for a RB26DETT appears to be 1.377 - 2.16 thou and 0.59 - 1.377 thou for RB25DET... still quite the difference, also not sure why there is the difference between RB26DETT and RB25DET... more margin due to different piston composition or due to known higher factory PS rating?

 

Mahle Source: https://www.mahle-aftermarket.com/media/media-global-&-europe/products-and-services/engine_components/2016-app-guide-final-rev1-compressed.pdf

Wossner Source: https://www.woessner-kolben.de/fileadmin/Downloads/Kataloge/Automobil_Automotive.pdf

 

Edited by lolhax
  • 1 year later...
7 hours ago, CowsWithGuns said:

Hey mate, what path did you end up taking here and how did it go? I'm in a similar position.

My rb30/26 was built using supertech pistons, was done a while ago, motor did around 50k making 350kw and 5k making 500kw. 
Had a health check done on the motor this week and came back perfect. 
Motor has little to no blow by and is insanely strong. 
Even on E85 I never got any noticeable contamination in the oil. 
And supertech rate them to 800hp I believe 

 

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update: I got the magnet out. I bought 3 different flexible magnetic reach tools, but none of them worked. The magnet on the tip was all less than 2lbs of force, so i had to buy a special cylindrical magnet that had a pull force of 9lbs.  The magnet finally came in the mail yesterday, so i got under the car to get to work. The super strong magnet isn't that long, so i only have about 1 finger pinch lengths to hold it. I was so scared when i was going in the hole, that the 9lb magnet would just fly away inside the oil pan never to be seen again, but i had my butt cheeks clenched and finger gripped on that thing so tight, i managed to get it to suck the other magnet out.  It was a victory for me last night.         
    • Yep, pretty much what you said is a good summary. The aftermarket thing just attached to the rim, then has two lines out to valve stems, one to inner wheel, one to outer wheel. Some of the systems even start to air up as you head towards highway speed. IE, you're in the logging tracks, then as speeds increase it knows you're on tarmac and airs up so the driver doesn't even have to remember. I bet the ones that need driver intervention to air up end up seeing a lot more tyre wear from "forest pressures" in use on the highway!
    • Yes, but you need to do these type certifications for tuning parts. That is the absurd part here. Meaning tuning parts are very costly (generally speaking) as well as the technical test documentation for say a turbo swap with more power. It just makes modifying everything crazy expensive and complicated. That bracket has been lost in translation many years ago I assume, it was not there.
    • Hahaha, yeah.... not what you'd call a tamper-proof design.... but yes, with the truck setup, the lines are always connected, but typically they sit just inside the plane of the rear metal mudguards, so if you clear the guards you clear the lines as well. Not rogue 4WD tracks with tree branches and bushes everywhere, ready to hook-up an air hose. You can do it externally like a mod, but dedicated setups air-pressurize the undriven hubs, and on driven axles you can do the same thing, or pressurize the axles (lots of designs out there for this idea)... https://www.trtaustralia.com.au/traction-air-cti-system/  for example.... ..the trouble I've got here... wrt the bimmer ad... is the last bit...they don't want to show it spinning, do they.... give all the illusion that things are moving...but no...and what the hell tyre profile is that?...25??? ...far kernel, rims would be dead inside 10klms on most roads around here.... 😃
    • You're just describing how type certification works. Personally I would be shocked to discover that catalytic converter is not in the stock mounting position. Is there a bracket on the transfer case holding the catalytic converter and front pipe together? If so, it should be in stock position. 
×
×
  • Create New...