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Clutch switch? Come again? ?

Neutral switch, the guide on here says not to connect to the auto ECU which I still have. But others say to connect it. IACV was cleaned when it was still auto. Never had issues with it. This has only started after the conversion. No wiring other than the inhibitor switch was touched.

Just now, Tosseef said:

Clutch switch? Come again? ?

Why are you laughing. The clutch switch and the neutral switch are used by (manual) ECUs to help inform them of what you are doing. This is particularly the case where you are rolling along with a non-zero speed in either neutral or in gear with the clutch depressed. The ECU will keep the idle speed higher, to make it easier to clutch out and get moving again. Lack of these inputs tends to be a significant contributor to the idle-drop-and-stall that often happens on half arsed conversions.

Both these are hooked up on my auto-man converted R32. Was true using the original RB20 (auto) ECU and is also true using the RB25Neo (auto) ECU that is in it now. I can see the signals for them come on in Nistune.

30 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

Why are you laughing. The clutch switch and the neutral switch are used by (manual) ECUs to help inform them of what you are doing. This is particularly the case where you are rolling along with a non-zero speed in either neutral or in gear with the clutch depressed. The ECU will keep the idle speed higher, to make it easier to clutch out and get moving again. Lack of these inputs tends to be a significant contributor to the idle-drop-and-stall that often happens on half arsed conversions.

Both these are hooked up on my auto-man converted R32. Was true using the original RB20 (auto) ECU and is also true using the RB25Neo (auto) ECU that is in it now. I can see the signals for them come on in Nistune.

My s2 c34 rs4s type b Definitly did not have a factory clutch switch. 

12 minutes ago, Tosseef said:

Neither does my S1.

Which was an auto?

are you using an auto or manual ecu?

can guarantee the calibration is different for idle amongst other things

  • Like 1

I'm using an R33 GT-R pedal which needed modification to fit. When bolted flush to the firewall it also depressed the rod which gave me clutch slip on idle. So I put 10mm spacers behind the pedal and wound the adjuster rod out bit by bit till I got a full clutch engagement and disengagement. Car's been fine ever since. Although the revs do spike when the clutch is depressed. So will be wiring the neutral switch back in.

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