Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi guys,

 

i bought a half cut engine RB which needs the O2 replacement sensors.
dont have the chassis # but only have the engine #

RB26066718A

 

any idea what is the year make & if its from a normal GTR chassis?

 

Thanks in advance all...

 

BR,

 

Shaune

Edited by shaune
double info
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/478765-need-info-rb26/
Share on other sites

hi Duncan, yes the problem is the model of O2 sensor... 

gtr32/33/34 is different.

its not a 32 rb26.

possible its 33 or 34 coz the CAS is the new type. Amayama requires chassis # to confirm which model of the sensors. I dont have that, only have engine #.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/478765-need-info-rb26/#findComment-7916458
Share on other sites

sorry, my point was that the o2 sensors you need match the ECU, not the engine. I may not be asking enough to understand the specifics, but if you have put the engine in a something, and need new o2 sensors, the model of engine doesn't matter.

It's the ECU that needs matching sensors. So, if you are putting it in something original (pic suggests you put the half cut engine in an r32) and have the original ECU, that is the type of o2 sensor you need. If you have put the engine in something else, you need to identify the ECU's model, not the engine's.

FWIW the fuel rail is 33/34 not 32 style, and as you said the CAS is not 32 style either

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/478765-need-info-rb26/#findComment-7916462
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Duncan said:

sorry, my point was that the o2 sensors you need match the ECU, not the engine. I may not be asking enough to understand the specifics, but if you have put the engine in a something, and need new o2 sensors, the model of engine doesn't matter.

It's the ECU that needs matching sensors. So, if you are putting it in something original (pic suggests you put the half cut engine in an r32) and have the original ECU, that is the type of o2 sensor you need. If you have put the engine in something else, you need to identify the ECU's model, not the engine's.

FWIW the fuel rail is 33/34 not 32 style, and as you said the CAS is not 32 style either

its running on stock ecu, problem is i have spare o2 sensor from my 32 rb26 engine (tried to swap it to see whats the difference) then only found out  but the thread & size is different.

normally would remove this & replace it with wideband sensors if using aftermarket ecu.

but since im running this stock, just need to buy the sensor coz the existing one is faulty.

dont have a r33 or r34 sample to compare.

like i said, i wanna order it but they asking me which year or chassis # before Amayama give me a price.

so back to my original question, anyone got any link to find out engine # year make?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/478765-need-info-rb26/#findComment-7916469
Share on other sites

Well, you could look at it with all the obvious clues......

It's not an R32 engine, and the dump pipe won't accept an R32 O2 sensor. So, it is therefore either an R33 or R34 unit. So, you could just ask the parts supplier what thread is on each of those (likely to be the same for both) and just go from there.

But now you bump up against the wiring problem. I have no idea about these specifically, but are the R32s 3 wire and the later ones 4 wire? Because you can't just go chuck a 4 wire onto a 3-wire loom. You're back to what Duncan said about matching the sensor to the ECU.

If you have spare R32 dump pipes, your best bet might be to fit those. Then they will accept R32 sensors and the planets will align again.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/478765-need-info-rb26/#findComment-7916474
Share on other sites

Ring or email Kudos

http://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/lambda-oxygen-sensor-front-suit-nissan-skyline-rb26dett-p-185.html

They have all the O2 sensors. Tell them your R32 sensor was too small in diameter. The front and rear sensors are different so be sure you tell them what you need. You should be able to sort it out over the phone.

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/478765-need-info-rb26/#findComment-7916504
Share on other sites

R32 GTR = 12mm thread

R33 / R34 GTR = 18mm thread like most wideband sensors (NTK, Bosch)

That's why a lot of dump pipes like HKS come with the reducers to suit all models of sensor, as I have a set of reducers that came with my HKS dumps that I didn't use as they were fitted to my 33 and weren't required. All are 3 wire, all are 0 -1v, but front sensor has square 4 pin plug (still only 3 wire) and rear has rectangular 3 pin plug.

That said I think they do bugger all in the grand scheme of things, and are probably only worth retaining on stock ECUs.

On a side note I believe it is nearly impossible to decode engine numbers with year and model makes, as this info is not contained within Nissan FAST. This means even Nissan can't tell you. The only thing I've noticed is RB26 blocks that were fitted from factory all seem to end with an A.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/478765-need-info-rb26/#findComment-7916535
Share on other sites

12 hours ago, KiwiRS4T said:

Ring or email Kudos

http://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/lambda-oxygen-sensor-front-suit-nissan-skyline-rb26dett-p-185.html

They have all the O2 sensors. Tell them your R32 sensor was too small in diameter. The front and rear sensors are different so be sure you tell them what you need. You should be able to sort it out over the phone.

TQ!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/478765-need-info-rb26/#findComment-7916537
Share on other sites

12 minutes ago, BK said:

R32 GTR = 12mm thread

R33 / R34 GTR = 18mm thread like most wideband sensors (NTK, Bosch)

That's why a lot of dump pipes like HKS come with the reducers to suit all models of sensor, as I have a set of reducers that came with my HKS dumps that I didn't use as they were fitted to my 33 and weren't required. All are 3 wire, all are 0 -1v, but front sensor has square 4 pin plug (still only 3 wire) and rear has rectangular 3 pin plug.

That said I think they do bugger all in the grand scheme of things, and are probably only worth retaining on stock ECUs.

On a side note I believe it is nearly impossible to decode engine numbers with year and model makes, as this info is not contained within Nissan FAST. This means even Nissan can't tell you. The only thing I've noticed is RB26 blocks that were fitted from factory all seem to end with an A.

TQ! good info

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/478765-need-info-rb26/#findComment-7916538
Share on other sites

33/34 sensors may fit physically in the dumps and have the right connectors (1x3 pin, 1x4 pin) but they won't necessarily behave properly with the 32 ECU as they may be a different chemistry (titania vs zirconia), I'm not sure if they are. The fact that 32 and 33 ECU is interchangeable probably means they will be OK

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/478765-need-info-rb26/#findComment-7916603
Share on other sites

Yes the R32 GTR ECU most certainly wants the 32 Titania version. There is a different setting in the Power FC to change in the ETC menu for the O2 sensor reg setting depending on R32 Titania or R33 Zirconia sensors. From Apexi:

There is a difference in the O2 Sensor for these vehicles. (With or without internal register)

After tuning, please check () "O2 Sensor REGISTER" for BNR32, and NOT for BCNR33.

So off (+ sign) for R33 O2 sensors. I have my BCNR33 set like this in my Apexi Power FC.

I don't know how the Haltech Elite deals with it as I have no narrowband O2 sensors fitted on my 32 (use CAN wideband) and have them turned off in the ESP software. Nistune is also onto this, here's what they have to say:

NIStune Using R32 GTR ECU on R33 GTR - Updated

The R32 ECU is a plug-in job and works seamlessly in the R33 except that they use different O2 sensors (and heaters for the O2 sensors are wired differently). Both easily fixed.

Sensors:

R32 uses a titania sensor. These sensors don't produce a voltage themselves - they're resistive. So resistance changes between rich and lean. This type of sensor produces a voltage of between approx 0V for lean to 1V for rich.

R33 uses a zirconia sensor. This type of sensor produces a voltage of between approx 0V for lean to 1V for rich. When running these sensors with an R32 ECU you'll find that they still work but the voltage range is different (read lower). The lean/rich trigger voltages must be adjusted using NIStune. Monitor the voltages in NIStune and adjust the rich/lean trigger voltages as required.

Sensor heaters:

R32 runs the heaters whenever IGN power is on. R33 ECU controls the heaters itself by supplying GND (the heater has 12V supplied to the other side whenever IGN is on) to turn heaters on. So what we need to do is supply GND to the heaters so they operate the same as R32 - they're on whenever IGN is on. This is done inside the ECU by linking O2 sensor GND (pin 50) to the pin used for heater GND by the R33 ECU (pin 115).

R32 GTR heaters AND SENSOR get ground from pin 50. R33 GTR heaters AND SENSOR get ground from pin 115.

On R32 GTR ecu pin 115 is not connected. On R33 GTR ecu pin 115 provides heater ground. So to provide this GND using the R32 ECU we simply need to bridge pin 50 to 115 with a wire link.

http://nistune.com/docs/R32 GTR ECU on R33 GTR.pdf

  • Like 2
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/478765-need-info-rb26/#findComment-7916605
Share on other sites

11 hours ago, BK said:

Yes the R32 GTR ECU most certainly wants the 32 Titania version. There is a different setting in the Power FC to change in the ETC menu for the O2 sensor reg setting depending on R32 Titania or R33 Zirconia sensors. From Apexi:

There is a difference in the O2 Sensor for these vehicles. (With or without internal register)

After tuning, please check () "O2 Sensor REGISTER" for BNR32, and NOT for BCNR33.

So off (+ sign) for R33 O2 sensors. I have my BCNR33 set like this in my Apexi Power FC.

I don't know how the Haltech Elite deals with it as I have no narrowband O2 sensors fitted on my 32 (use CAN wideband) and have them turned off in the ESP software. Nistune is also onto this, here's what they have to say:

NIStune Using R32 GTR ECU on R33 GTR - Updated

The R32 ECU is a plug-in job and works seamlessly in the R33 except that they use different O2 sensors (and heaters for the O2 sensors are wired differently). Both easily fixed.

Sensors:

R32 uses a titania sensor. These sensors don't produce a voltage themselves - they're resistive. So resistance changes between rich and lean. This type of sensor produces a voltage of between approx 0V for lean to 1V for rich.

R33 uses a zirconia sensor. This type of sensor produces a voltage of between approx 0V for lean to 1V for rich. When running these sensors with an R32 ECU you'll find that they still work but the voltage range is different (read lower). The lean/rich trigger voltages must be adjusted using NIStune. Monitor the voltages in NIStune and adjust the rich/lean trigger voltages as required.

Sensor heaters:

R32 runs the heaters whenever IGN power is on. R33 ECU controls the heaters itself by supplying GND (the heater has 12V supplied to the other side whenever IGN is on) to turn heaters on. So what we need to do is supply GND to the heaters so they operate the same as R32 - they're on whenever IGN is on. This is done inside the ECU by linking O2 sensor GND (pin 50) to the pin used for heater GND by the R33 ECU (pin 115).

R32 GTR heaters AND SENSOR get ground from pin 50. R33 GTR heaters AND SENSOR get ground from pin 115.

On R32 GTR ecu pin 115 is not connected. On R33 GTR ecu pin 115 provides heater ground. So to provide this GND using the R32 ECU we simply need to bridge pin 50 to 115 with a wire link.

http://nistune.com/docs/R32 GTR ECU on R33 GTR.pdf

wow, good info!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/478765-need-info-rb26/#findComment-7916635
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I clean my wheels every time I was the car, I also clean the barrels, the only product I use on the wheels is truck wash, followed by wash and wax, cleaning the barrels is easy with one of these microfibre thingies on a stick from Sabco, there also great for getting in between the front guards and body, and tight spots in the engine bay  
    • An updated post here. Sounds to me like there's definitely a bit of sketchiness here.  Old mate with 10 rusting Torana's in the front yard might be more who they're focussed on. (For right or wrong).
    • Is this not just about people wrecking, and storing, multiple cars in their front yard? I now a tow truck driver that was contracted by the council to clean up housing commission front and rear yards in houses and unit car parks I'm all for working on, and doing maintenance on your car in your garage or driveway, but some people definitely take the piss  There's one house locally to me that I walk past regularly where the front yard and driveway looks like a wreckers, multiple cars in various stages of being stripped, and the yard looks like all of fluids are basically dumped on the ground I may be wrong, but it seems that the initial reports, which I've seen nothing actually official about yet, may be getting taken out of context, like alot of the latest "the sky is falling" stuff found on the youtubes for clicks
    • have they? Link appreciated. I live in Casey. I can see both sides of the argument in this case. There's a lot of sketchy stuff going on. There needs to be a clear definition of what this is supposed to be IMO. I wager the intent was to be a broad sweeping brush against people who have 4 cars up on blocks on their front lawn, not someone who services their own car behind their own gate on a weekend bothering probably nobody. But it'd be hard to legislate the difference there.
    • Oh, the wheels were already off. I wouldn't normally take them off to clean them although it does make it easier with the ceramic, so I might take them off when reapplying. I don't drive much but now with the ceramic coat, when I do drive and they get dirty I can get most off with the pressure washer. I'll be switching to dirtier pads soon which was the motivation for the ceramic as I usually just clean them and sometimes use Autoglym wheel protector. Nah, f**k the barrels! Haha, I'll give them a quick scrub when they're off the car and a pressure wash, but even I draw the line with the barrels. Yes, dark coloured wheels allow you to get away with a lot!  
×
×
  • Create New...