Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey everyone, over the last week my gts4 rb20det has developed this sound. It doesn’t always happen but after turning the key off it will kinda clunk in the last movements of the engine, also when that does happen sometimes when I start it back up it will be like a one clunk before it fires completely up, the car runs and idles fun, just sometimes has that weird clunky feeling while shutting off. It was also kinda shaking at lights while idling. Car is stock besides a hks bov that vents to the air. 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/478771-gts4-rb20-clunks-while-shutting-off/
Share on other sites

You may be best off trying to video this and find the best spot to put the camera/mic for us to hear it. And if you're going to go to that effort, you might end up putting the camera/mic in odd places, like on the ground next to the gearbox to see if the noise is coming from down there.

  • Okay here is a video taken from under the car. It’s like towards the end, the couple clunks, also there has always been this squirting\electric noise that I’ve never been able to pinpoint after ever shut off.. that is the very last sound you’ll hear after the clunky sound. Sorry first video didn’t load; second one should work.. 

Edited by SkylineP

Dunno. Sounds like mine shutting off. The "clunk" is not really a clunk. It sounds like gearbox rollover noise coming to a stop.

The hiss is also normal, and in they all do it. The options are;

  • Air leaking in to a volume that is under vacuum (ie brake booster, or plenum chamber) through a small leak. The IACV would qualify as such a small leak into the plenum that would perhaps make that sound and you only hear it because all the other noise suddenly stops.
  • Fuel flowing away through the reg as it closes up when demand from the injectors suddenly stops.
  • Other such similar crap.

Thanks for the response!

Okay, sometimes it’s a bit more predominate with the clunk feel and sound, that has been the first one I could even catch the car doing it because it’s definitely not all the time, maybe one shut off out of ten?  I was first thinking it’s just the internals coming to a stop but for the two years I’ve had it I don’t e er remember that feeling or sound and it’s not all the time. Also noticed tonight at idle while I was eating fast food in a parking lot that the engine would have sudden slight jerks, very small but I could feel it in the cabin.. would assume that’s either spark or fuel?

31 minutes ago, SkylineP said:

Also would the gearbox even be turning at all if the car is in neutral and at idle?

Yes. Input shaft is driven by the clutch whenever the clutch is engaged. Neutral just means that there's nothing meshed to the input shaft.

My R33 box makes a truly enormous amount of rollover noise. Clutch in at idle and the background noise level drops appreciably.

  • 3 weeks later...

Okay so this noise seems to be getting worse and am dreading taking it into a mechanic because 1: it's hard to find a trustworthy mechanic and 2: it's a skyline in the US and everyone will have a "skyline markup" for any work done. 

The noise only happens when I've been driving for a while on highway or kinda pushing it. It also sometimes feels "clunky" when starting it up, but mostly the "clunk-clunk-clunk" happens right after the car is shut off. I've tried shutting off with clutch pushed in and also in gear with clutch pushed in while shutting off but nothing seems to make it sound better or eliminate it. Someone besides gtsboy has to have some input about what this could be, because it's not sounding normal now. Thank you for any help!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My take on gg2 48mm, 54mm, 58mm, and 62mm compressor map for same size compressor vs gg1 : All gg2 only outflow gg1 above 20 psi. As all g gen 2 surge line at lower left of comp map move to the right, all gg2 sacrifice spool vs same size gg1, surge line move to the right worst for 54mm gg2. So for same size compressor if you want best response, use gg1, if you want max hp at >20psi use gg2 but you will be laggier vs same size gg1. Max compressor efficiency drops to max 75% on all gg2 vs max 76%-80% of same size gg1. Iirc lower efficiency means hotter iat less dense air so lower hp at same operating point of comp map. Also curious why gg2 is mapped to lower max rpm vs same size gg1 (only 48mm size both gg1 gg2 mapped to same rpm) : 54mm gg1 165,000 rpm  vs  gg2 160,000 rpm. 58mm gg1 150,000 rpm vs gg2 140,000rpm. 62mm gg1 145,000 rpm vs gg2 140,000 rpm. If gg2 can safely spin to gg1 rpm then they can flow a bit more than as mapped. Good thing that all gg 2 interchange compressor and turbine housings with same size gg 1. So gg1 owners can buy gg2 chra only if planning to boost >20psi.
    • My stuff is all with Shannon's, granted, I don't really have imports I'm driving on the road, however, I've had multiple cars at the same time with them. Presently we have the Landcruiser on laid up cover, Sarah's Kluger on full cover, and the house insured. About 18 months ago Sarah wrote her Subaru Liberty GTB off, insured with Shannon's, and the payout, and buy back of the wreck was super quick. In 2020 we had the VF Commodore totalled in a major hailstorm. Storm was on the Saturday, I called on the Sunday and lodged it, vehicle was towed on Tuesday night, assessment team called on Wednesday to say it was a total loss and get payout details, money was in the bank on Thursday morning. Have had a few other claims both at fault, and not at fault, over the years, and never had an issue with them.   Funnily enough, they're also the cheapest insurer I find for things like Sarah's Kluger.   I will say I'm less impressed dealing with them lately around "the experience", as a lot of their staff that you deal with aren't car enthusiasts. Shannon's has a much more main stream feel ever since they decided to become "big corporate", laid a heap of staff off, and then hired a bunch of non enthusiasts. At the same time they've been making a push to be less "call us and we'll personally have someone who cares help" to "hey, this computer can do stuff for you" and are trying to get more square pegs to fit round holes. (That's just the vibe I get from them). Again, have had no issues with claims with them, but get a bit of a "less personal" feel from them.
    • A thing I wasn’t happy with with enthusiast was during the initial phone call they told me they’d insure it for 130k but needed photos.   I then sent them photos and they told me $80k as there were other cars either similar modifications available for around that price, I told them to send me the links to said cars so that I can buy them. i then sent the modification list with prices of the parts (no labor) and the price then came to 115k, which is still shy of the 130 that was agreed in the initial phone call 
    • Ask me a bit later this week before payday
    • I agree that delayed payment probably isn't the most suitable solution. It seems a solid complete transaction would be best. As I wouldn't be using this sale as a line of credit that would typically earn interest, we can probably arrange a much cleaner single transaction deal. I can do $92.52 today. Would you prefer EFT, or Cash on Pickup?  😛
×
×
  • Create New...