Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

RB26 head (complete minus covers and cam gears) would require a refresh... - $750 ($850 with HD valve springs)

RB25 long motor (no hot side) Low compression on cylinder #5, would suit rebuild or RB30 twin cam... - $750

Complete S15 rear subframe... - $750

Brand new KKR adjustable rear toe arms (suit R32, S13 etc)... - $125

Defi gauges with controller (boost, oil pressure, oil temperature)... - $700

BBS forged wheels (260rs Stagea) with crappy tyres (17 x 7 +20 and +30) painted... $400

 

Can potentially post at buyers expense gauges, toe arms, wheels and maybe RB26 head...

Located South of Adelaide...

IMG_1225.JPG

IMG_1226.JPG

IMG_1227.JPG

IMG_1228.JPG

IMG_1229.JPG

IMG_1237.JPG

IMG_1239.JPG

IMG_1240.JPG

IMG_1241.JPG

Edited by mr_rbman
wrong pic
  • 3 weeks later...

Added pics of Defi gauges...

https://www.defi-shop.com/products/advance_bf/summary_adbf/

(amber red model)

IMG_1327.JPG

IMG_1328.JPG

Edited by mr_rbman
added link
  • 3 months later...
  • 4 weeks later...
On 2/7/2020 at 7:14 PM, Jacks red r34 gtt said:

Hi mate if offer still stands I'll be happy to take that 25 neo motor of you

hi mate, the motor is from an R33, not 34 so not a neo...

  • 4 weeks later...

hey mate interested in the defi gauges as a gift for my wifes car!, if your willing to ship to Canada I will cover shipping and your time...thanks m8 

On 3/28/2020 at 8:32 AM, MoMnDadGTR said:

hey mate interested in the defi gauges as a gift for my wifes car!, if your willing to ship to Canada I will cover shipping and your time...thanks m8 

no probs at all.

pm sent

  • 5 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, pretty much what you said is a good summary. The aftermarket thing just attached to the rim, then has two lines out to valve stems, one to inner wheel, one to outer wheel. Some of the systems even start to air up as you head towards highway speed. IE, you're in the logging tracks, then as speeds increase it knows you're on tarmac and airs up so the driver doesn't even have to remember. I bet the ones that need driver intervention to air up end up seeing a lot more tyre wear from "forest pressures" in use on the highway!
    • Yes, but you need to do these type certifications for tuning parts. That is the absurd part here. Meaning tuning parts are very costly (generally speaking) as well as the technical test documentation for say a turbo swap with more power. It just makes modifying everything crazy expensive and complicated. That bracket has been lost in translation many years ago I assume, it was not there.
    • Hahaha, yeah.... not what you'd call a tamper-proof design.... but yes, with the truck setup, the lines are always connected, but typically they sit just inside the plane of the rear metal mudguards, so if you clear the guards you clear the lines as well. Not rogue 4WD tracks with tree branches and bushes everywhere, ready to hook-up an air hose. You can do it externally like a mod, but dedicated setups air-pressurize the undriven hubs, and on driven axles you can do the same thing, or pressurize the axles (lots of designs out there for this idea)... https://www.trtaustralia.com.au/traction-air-cti-system/  for example.... ..the trouble I've got here... wrt the bimmer ad... is the last bit...they don't want to show it spinning, do they.... give all the illusion that things are moving...but no...and what the hell tyre profile is that?...25??? ...far kernel, rims would be dead inside 10klms on most roads around here.... 😃
    • You're just describing how type certification works. Personally I would be shocked to discover that catalytic converter is not in the stock mounting position. Is there a bracket on the transfer case holding the catalytic converter and front pipe together? If so, it should be in stock position. 
    • You talking about the ones in the photo above? I guess that could make sense. Fixed (but flexible) line from the point up above down to the hubcap thingo, with a rotating air seal thingo. Then fixed (but also still likely flexible) line from the "other side" of the transfer in the hub cap thingo up to the valve stem on the rim. A horrible cludge, but something that could be done. I'd bet on the Unimog version being fed through from the back, as part of the axle assembly, without the need for the vulnerable lines out to the sides. It's amazing what you can do when you have an idea that is not quite impossible. Nearly impossible, but not quite.
×
×
  • Create New...