Jump to content
SAU Community

R32 gtst diff whine after warmed up

LINK17
 Share

Recommended Posts

LINK17 Collaborator

LINK17

Posted
Posted

Hey All

I can't seem to find this problem anywhere. After highway driving for 20 mins or so and leaving it in 5th I hear a slight whine from diff at 80kph. I have changed the diff oil to nulon 75w90 correct spec and it made absolutely no difference. 

Any idea what the problem is? And no vibration at all.

Some say additives work some say they don't but I don't want to fork out for the redline stuff for it not yo fix anything. 

Ideas pls?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/478849-r32-gtst-diff-whine-after-warmed-up/
Share on other sites
Blakeo Rising Star

Blakeo

Posted
Posted
On 10/4/2019 at 11:10 PM, Dil-Dog said:

Time to weld it ?

Welding won't fix it, it will be due to pinion bearing wear and the pinion/ring gear mesh is slightly off causing it whine. 

Needs rebuild to fix, and depending on how long its been driven like this the pinion/ring gear might need to be relapped. 

-Blake.

  • Like 1
BK Grand Master

BK

Posted
Posted

My $0.02.

In other words, crown wheel and pinion is rooted. Maybe not totally rooted but if it's making noises the damage has been done and they're on the way out. Need new MATCHED set, installed and shimmed correctly for correct gear backlash. There is no magic fix for worn diffs and no additive is going to fix it, no not even that Redline crap everyone raves about.

I stuffed mine that bad in one of my GTRs in the front (where people usually run lighter oil) that the crown wheel and pinion gears were actually razor sharp to the touch, which is a lot of wear if your familiar with crown and pinion gears. It made all sorts crazy noises under load, and why your noise is appearing once the diff oil is hot and thinner in your differential. I will never run ANYTHING other than 75w - 140 in any GTR diff front or rear again after that. After 19 years of GTR ownership anyone who runs stuff like 75w - 90 in any GTR diff front or rear is asking for trouble. I know it's a gtst but same thing basically. Anyone tells you to run 75w - 90 is a dickhead and asking for a diff rebuild, unless changed very regularly and / or has very little power.

It's all about protecting the crown wheel and pinion and the heavy stuff does the job, especially when most people don't drop their diff oil that often.

Motul comp gear 75w - 140 or Castrol Syntrax 80w - 140 (used to be SAF-XA) or you may as well put water in your diff.

BK Grand Master

BK

Posted
Posted

Both the Castrol and Motul is generally around the $30 - $45 a litre range. Most other reputable oil companies have diff oil in that range too, Castrol and Motul just seem to be the top pick and Castrol is readily available. Castrol used to be the most recommended by companies like Holinger and Albins until the Motul stuff came along.

KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted
On 10/7/2019 at 11:46 AM, LINK17 said:

I think this is the problem, I checked the diff oil and it's 75w90, thanks for the great advice. 

I love the motul stuff but can't find where to buy except stupid prices online?

I use the Motul or Nismo oil. Its expensive but you don't need much and have you priced a diff rebuild?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • PotatoCake
      Is r33 gtr steering wheel the same as the gtst?

      By PotatoCake · Posted

      You have just offended every teenage boy in America
    • GTSBoy
      R32 GTST - 600KW+ RB28/CD009 Build

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Structured text and other high level PLC programing languages are not allowable in Functional Safety. They are very difficult to audit. My PLC stuff is almost exclusively oriented towards Burner Management Systems which are a particularly pernicious form of Safety Instrumented System, when implemented in an SPLC. Even the part of the code written to work in the non-safety logic part of the PLC, like with a Siemens S7-1500 series, still needs to be treated as if it was safety code, with access restrictions, code fingreprints and the like. And Allen Bradley can go EABODs. They ae full of shit. They have this whole lie going on where they say if you use a ControlLogix controller and its IO, and then just duplicate the IOs (ie, run in series or parallel depending on type, to try to make it "fail safe") and "use these programming styles and place these restrictions on what you do" that you can achieve SIL2. What a load of crap. They just get away with it because no-one in the US seems to understand the first thing about Functional Safety and carries on as if all they have to do is buy only SIL2 rated equipment and hey presto, it's a SIL2 system. Idiots. /rant
    • MBS206
      Magnetic Drain Plug Snapped in Half

      By MBS206 · Posted

      If you're really considering leaving it, a great question to ask is, is the magnet going to stick to the sump? The answer to the above is the same answer towards if I'd have any level of comfort leaving it... Personally, based on the cost of a motor if the magnet were to cause damage, I'd be fishing it out either way. Use the methods in here. It fit in through the plug hole, it'll come out.   PS, get a small actuatable claw for a bore scope. OR if you know a vet, they have really cool controllable scopes with hooks on the end. Supposedly they're like playing a video game. Ask if they can acquire you one of their scopes... Engine oil after all is just a different type of lube right? Will only make it easier on the next dog or cat...
    • MBS206
      R32 GTST - 600KW+ RB28/CD009 Build

      By MBS206 · Posted

      All other (Boolean) logic functions though, are just built on those blocks above. Which does give you a lot of functionality in logic. It is basing that on using thresholds with analogue signals like GTS alluded to.   Not having things like timers will make it less useful for some of the ramp up logic you'd want, and again, on Haltecs capacity specifically, I'm not across anymore what you can / can't do with different tables.   I'm assuming, with your logic you want to implement, not only do you want your timing safeties, you're wanting to be able to derive the duty cycle for your solenoid, to maintain I'm assuming 175PSi? Or are you using a standalone WMI controller to maintain the DC correct, and you just want the Haltech working out which fuelling maps you should be on?
    • MBS206
      Low oil pressure after WOT

      By MBS206 · Posted

      It doesn't seem to follow revs. Oddly it seems to follow TPS a little bit from what I can see, but with some delay a bit. IE end of the graph, when he lets off throttle fully, pressure drops a lot, then slowly builds back up, but rpm is on a nice cruisey drop off. I do agree though, it seems very electrically.
×
×
  • Create New...