R32 GTR Front diff Problem?

[Mac232]

Hello!

I searched on the forum and did not find anything similar to my problem!

So i drove my GTR with my friends an launched it once, after that the car was fine and i continued to drive with no problems!

We stopped after 15 minutes, and my car was parked for about 30 minutes, i noticed some brown oilsplashs on my driverside and a little bit in the wheelhousing!

I checked for leaks on my brakelines but nothing there!

After driving it again the car was handling really strange, everytime my 4x4 kicked in my car started to pull hard left, if i was just coasting and accelerating mildly the car was going straight!

Now my question is did i break my front diff or could there be anything else that causes this problem.

My allignment is a bit off but that pulls me to the right so i know it has nothing to do with that!

 

Hope someone can help me!

 

Thank you!

 

Kind Reagrds

[KiwiRS4T]

R32 you can put it into 2wd or you can remove the front driveshaft. If that fixes the problem you may have broken the diff.

While you have it up in the air check the front half shafts and cv joints.

[BK]

Wow ! that ! was ! really ! hard ! to ! read  ! Stop ! using ! So ! Many ! exclamation ! Marks ! Explaining ! Your ! Problem ! ☺

FYI This also should be listed in the more suitable drivetrain and transmission section.

Anyway your problem I take it is your car basically pulls left under power ? If you have crappy clapped out standard diffs front or rear in your car, your diffs are open wheeling and pulling you to the left. Very common with stock worn GTR diffs actually. Like KiwiRS4T said, put car into 2wd and repeat, as at least it will point towards the front or rear diff causing the pull.

Brown "oilsplashs" is probably actually grease from a split front cv outer boot, and needs to be addressed ASAP. If the front diff centre is gone it will make some fairly noticeably horrendous noises too, worse under load. Please report back after more diagnosis.

[Mac232]

Thanks for the quick replies, i will try the car again after putting it in 2wd and let you know the outcome. I didn't hear any strange noises from the front diff under load just some slight clicking. 

 

Thank you!

[BK]

Hey mate it might be worth dropping your front diff oil also to check if there is a heap of metal in it, indicating any wear.

Also....you do have correct and even pressure in your tyres don't you ? This is the simplest thing that will make you torque steer under power. Easily overlooked, but will definitely cause it too.

[Mac232]

Will check that ASAP thank you BK. About the outer boot i already changed them, the oil was clear not like the grease that comes out of a broken boot. My GTR is going in for wintersleep for the next 6 months so i have some time to make it right and check everything.

[Mac232]

Hello!

I finally had time to open my front diff to check for the problem with my car pulling to the left under load. The oil that came out was all clean and had no metal pieces in it, but the teeth of the diff are a little bit consumed. Since BK said that clapped out diffs are a common problem on R32 GTR´s it might be that but i am not sure. I will post 2 pictures of my diff hope someone can help me.

 

Thank you

diff 1.jfif diff 2.jfif

[BK]

Dude can't open files. Attach any photos within post as a jpeg so they are visible without downloading.

I can't say destroying front diffs is exactly a "common" problem, but it does happen. When the spider gears wear the side effects you mentioned are very common in a GTR (as I said it was common when the diffs get stuffed). Badly setup backlash with the diff crown wheel and pinion causing wear  (won't cause to pull from straight though) and too light an oil does damage them as mentioned. Also as previously mentioned, with a fair bit of power the front will have a natural tendency to pull you away from straight with the shitty open front diff, hence why LSDs are fitted to the front to correct this.

Is it the crown wheel and pinion worn or are the diffs inside spider gears worn ?

[Mac232]

Sorry didn´t notice that i uploaded the pics in the wrong format, should be JPEG now. We found that the bushings on the front control arm were loose so we changed them aswell. I think a little bit of pull is ok if its a shitty open diff but in my case it´s suicidal to accelerate, it pulls you in oncomming traffic in no time.

Crown wheel and pinion seems fine to me.

 

Thank you!

[KiwiRS4T]

Did new bushes help? Are brakes binding? Had a wheel alignment? Winding castor up to near 7 degrees will encourage straight ahead travel although you will have to redo toe in and check camber.

[GTSBoy]

22 minutes ago, KiwiRS4T said:

Winding castor up to near 7 degrees will encourage straight ahead travel although you will have to redo toe in and check camber.

Not real good on R32. 5 is about the most they will swallow without causing issues. The front upper arms HATE even that much caster.

The front upper arm bushes will be the leading candidate (if the changed bushings mentioned were in the lower arms).

It is a very good idea to consider f**king off the stock upper arms and replacing with GK-Tech. They are a lot of work to live with, but they are f**king excellent.

[BK]

Yeah I'm with the guys above, I don't think your front diff is your problem after looking at the pics.

[Mac232]

Thank you for all the quick responses!

Just one last question, it seems i can´t find any gaskets for the oem front diff. Do you guys know where i can get one?

 

 

[KiwiRS4T]

1 hour ago, Mac232 said:

Thank you for all the quick responses!

Just one last question, it seems i can´t find any gaskets for the oem front diff. Do you guys know where i can get one?

 

 

If all else fails get some gasket paper and make one.

[BK]

No, Doesn't have one, uses threebond like the sump. 1207C is the good stuff.