Need help with choosing a clutch for R34 RB26

[BK]

1 hour ago, Dil-Dog said:

Just make sure that you get a PULL type clutch

why ? push clutches dominate the market, available in many more configurations, and are more practical to actually work on. Yes it does require a conversion in a 93 - 94 R32/,R33/R34 GTR situation but it seems like you are inferring that pull is better than push.

I fully converted my R33 GTR away from pull to push for this reason for more clutch options, and no not the OS giken pull to push arrangement which still uses pull slave and line. On my R33 GTR I did full R32 GTR 11/16" push slave cylinder, push gearbox front cover, uprated cast alloy Z33/Z34 instead of pressed steel clutch bearing release fork, chromoly fork pivot (not the Nismo reinforced push pivot) and braided reservoir to clutch slave line deleting all that hard line bullshit that Nissan uses to the slave cylinder. End result is gold, actually works properly and reliably.

2 hours ago, Baroque said:

-Im looking ONLY for NON RATTLE situation(especially on idle)

Have you actually read anything I've said ? Any idle noise from the Getrag box is going to come down to your flywheel being dual mass or single mass, not the clutch plate count or what the plates are made of. I have given you the pros and cons of each flywheel type. You still haven't outlined a power figure which is actually important in this part selection. Is it stock, 300, 400kw at wheels ect. It determines what you need or should use.

Sorry but I'm out. Any GTR is not a refined, smooth and silent type of car like you are trying to make it out to be. I wish you the best of luck and I hope I've been a help to some degree.

I suggest you give a clutch specialist like Australian Clutch Services or NPC a call for any further info to help you.

[Dil-Dog]

I agree with you 100% but they come Pull type from factory so he would have to convert it if he wants a push type 

[joshuaho96]

4 hours ago, BK said:

why ? push clutches dominate the market, available in many more configurations, and are more practical to actually work on. Yes it does require a conversion in a 93 - 94 R32/,R33/R34 GTR situation but it seems like you are inferring that pull is better than push.

I fully converted my R33 GTR away from pull to push for this reason for more clutch options, and no not the OS giken pull to push arrangement which still uses pull slave and line. On my R33 GTR I did full R32 GTR 11/16" push slave cylinder, push gearbox front cover, uprated cast alloy Z33/Z34 instead of pressed steel clutch bearing release fork, chromoly fork pivot (not the Nismo reinforced push pivot) and braided reservoir to clutch slave line deleting all that hard line bullshit that Nissan uses to the slave cylinder. End result is gold, actually works properly and reliably.

Have you actually read anything I've said ? Any idle noise from the Getrag box is going to come down to your flywheel being dual mass or single mass, not the clutch plate count or what the plates are made of. I have given you the pros and cons of each flywheel type. You still haven't outlined a power figure which is actually important in this part selection. Is it stock, 300, 400kw at wheels ect. It determines what you need or should use.

Sorry but I'm out. Any GTR is not a refined, smooth and silent type of car like you are trying to make it out to be. I wish you the best of luck and I hope I've been a help to some degree.

I suggest you give a clutch specialist like Australian Clutch Services or NPC a call for any further info to help you.

I dunno about you but I find the Skyline GT-Rs to be surprisingly refined. With the R34 they were definitely trying to go for more refinement, easier to drive, etc. The R35 only continues the trend. If anything the R35's native NVH is a little worse because of the V6, they just muffle and dampen everything to be what you expect from a modern car.

I would say if OP is really, really obsessed with getting as little noise as possible the only choice is to use a new OEM dual mass flywheel and an upgraded single plate like mentioned in this thread. If he's willing to compromise a little with the dual plate chatter then ATS silent twin plate. If he's ok with some of this noise then Coppermix twin or ATS twin plate. This is the stuff we're talking about though: 

 

[Baroque]

In my situation,i could use single plate because of the soft and sensible style of drive I prefer . If this car with single plate would be used by a guy who need high rpms,reving,launch control all the time and burnout lovers,of course it would crack to the lil pieces in a week.Yesterday i did some new calculations what the project is gonna be in power matter.Stock r34 clutch,as i heard,holds up to around 500-550 hp.Primary I estimated my power for 550-570hp.So i knew i could use aftermarket single,but as I wrote,twin would be better if I could solve the rattle problem. After second calculation that i said above it will be 600-650hp so now i know exactly,that i need twin plate.

Its not a obsession joshua.I just want to be one,unique son of a *itch who could cope with that problem the best way possible,even if it takes to spend huge amount of money.Thats the respect i give to this car lets say. .Everything to the perfection.

 

 

[Baroque]

I wanted to say earlier of course,one and unique if no one ever did this the best way possible,because if so,i will be next,but as i saw on the internet,people are giving up and accepting that con of multiplate.I have will for 10 years now,and money to do perfect project,so don't judge me for that,and my detailed needs..If the rattle cannot be solved totally,im talking of course about lowering the noise to the minimum.However i cannot help myself in 100% because its not my knowledge field,thats why choose you guys to help me,what to do.

[r32-25t]

Get a nismo coppermix twin plate! It will hold your power goal, drives like stock and it doesn’t rattle, problem solved