Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So I have a Nissan Navara Ute with v6 vg30e engine and 5 speed manual gearbox.

I'm looking at fitting an sr20det engine using an adapter to my gearbox ( same as rb25det) .

Does anyone have an adapter or info on what's needed? 

I've emailed alpha Omega racing re their adapter. They are only prepared to sell me a full kit which is absurd to me as a lot of parts are to fit my style of gearbox into a different chassis therefore totally useless to me.

Can anyone point me in the direction of a company in USA or somewhere else that can just sell the bell housing adapter and associated clutch components etc? It would be a shame to buy something offshore die to their " business decisions". 

Any help appreciated thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/479017-sr20-to-vg-gearbox-help/
Share on other sites

I don't have first hand knowledge because of my zero care for SR20s and less than zero care for VGs......but VG gearbox into SR20 engined S chassis cars is such a common thing that there would have to be 625x10^887 mentions of how to do it on the internet already. Just have a strong google.

I'm not sure you understand. I'm not putting a vg box into an s chassis.

I'm putting an s chassis engine into a vg equipped car. Alpha Omega will not sell parts I need separately, only a complete kit as they "garauntee it will work as a complete kit".

I only need the bell housing adapter and clutch adapter.

I might be missing something but can't see how it hard to understand.

7 hours ago, Griffin said:

I only need the bell housing adapter and clutch adapter.

And how does that differ from what I posted? SR engine connected to VG transmission. Does not matter what the chassis is when it is just that one connection that you need to know about. And as I said, it has been done bajjillions of times before, so there must be many many people who have discussed it on the interpipes.

Thanks Jesus and Mary but Im after one that bolts on  ie in picture from alpha Omega site. 

I think it's too simple for you to get your head around. 

Does anyone know of a company that will sell me an adaptor to mount an sr20 to a vg bell housing? No removal of gearbox, no cutting, no welding. No 10 piece kit when I need 1 piece. No drama queen high horse response.

Probably not but was worth a try. Will send my ?to China because of greedy local companies.

 

 

You need to mill it down if it's going on a S13/14 motor.
Only way to get a bolt up kind of jobby is through Eleven10 engineering, he will cut/machine/weld up you a bell housing.

Even the Alpha Omega kit needs you to exchange bell housings (as they mill it down), unless you're bolting this up to a S15 SR20DET motor.

I've fitted up a few of these kits before and for correct speedo translation to your S13 dash and/or similar Nissan cluster use a Z32 N/A speedo sensor. It will out by about 5~10km/h at most.

15 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Or just buy a BMW M5.. done.

441kW, 0-100 in 3.3s

Yup what he said !

My boss just got him self one !

A serious bit of kit and got it for a bargain price of 235K.

Took me for a ride in it  . . .goes very well . . . . . very very well !

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I think my main complaint with your idea is that there is a veneer of idealism spread across it. You want the simple numbers to make it easier, but all they will do is make it easier for someone to come to the wrong conclusion because the fine details will kick them in the nuts. As it is right now, the tiny bit of arithmetic is NOT the obstacle to understanding what will fit and what will not fit. The reality of trying it is what determines whether it will fit. If you had a "standard rule" that R34 GTT guards have that magic 100mm space from the hub face to whichever side you were worried about, and someone said "excellent, this wheel is only 98mm in that direction, I'll just go spend $4k on them and jam them on my sick ride".....they would just as likely find out that the "standard rule" is not true because the rear subframe is offset to one side by a fairly typical (but variable) 8mm on their car and they only have 92mm on one side and 108 on the other.
    • It still combines inches with mm, especially when you have .5 inches involved, and mm and inches that can go in either direction. This would give a clear idea on both sides of the rim, right away, with no arithmetic. Even better if somebody gives you the dimensions of the arch of multiple cars. i.e GTR may be 125mm, a A80 Supra may be 117mm, or something along those lines. Yes, you can 'know' that going from a 10in rim to a 10.5in rim with the same offset moves both sides about 6mm, but you still have to 'know' that and do the math. Often it's combined. People are going from 9.5 +27 to 10.5 +15. You may do the math to know it, but if it was going from (I had to go look it up to be sure) 241mm/2 - 27 - 93.5mm from the center line to (more math) 266/2 - 15 (118mm) from the center line. Versus 93mm vs 118mm. It's right there. If you know you have a GTT with 100mm guards you can see right away that one is close to flush and the other absolutely won't work. And when someone says "Oh the GTR is 120mm" suddenly you see that the 10.5 +15 is about perfect. (or you go and buy rims with approximately 118mm outward guard space) I think it's safe to say that given one of the most common questions in all modified cars is "How do offsets work" and "How do I know if wheels will fit on my car" that this would be much simpler... Of course, nothing will really change and nobody is going to remanufacture wheels and ditch inches and offset based on this conversation :p We'll all go "18x9+30 will line up pretty close to the guards for a R34 GTT (84mm)" but 'pretty close' is still not really defined (it is now!) and if you really care you still have go measure. Yes it depends on camber and height and dynamic movement, but so do all wheels no matter what you measure it for.
    • But offsets are simple numbers. 8" wheel? Call it 200mm, near enough. +35 offset? OK, so that means the hub face is that far out from the wheel centreline. Which is 2s of mental arithmetic to get to 65mm to outer edge and 135mm to inner. It's hardly any more effort for any other wheel width or offset. As I said, I just close my eyes and can see a picture of the wheel when given the width and offset. That wouldn't help me trust that a marginal fitment would actually go in and clear everything, any more than the supposedly simple numbers you're talking about. I dunno. Maybe I just automatically do numbers.
    • Sure! But you at least have simple numbers instead of 8.5 inches +/mm, relative to your current rims you do maths with as well, and/or compare with OEM diameter, which you also need to know/research/confirm..
×
×
  • Create New...