Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello Everyone, 

I have:
New Mishimoto Radiator
New Mishimoto Electric and Shroud (came with ONE fan)... wired professionally from a ignition source from the Fuse Box and wired with its own fuse and relay. 
New Mishimoto Colder range Thermostat

and YET! it still overheats in 10 mins on the street with regular driving either and day 29 degrees C or Night 27 degrees C

The Dash Board's Temperature gauge will slowly climb to about 75% to the top and then at a certain point will start slowing jumping up and down and up and down from 75% to 95% (overheating).

I was told that: 
-The single electric fan is ass and cant cool the radiator so go back to the clutch fan and shroud.
-The Thermostat is faulty/not working. replace it and one guy even said dont even use one. I live in the Caribbean by the way... 
-When switching over to a GReddy Forward Facing Plenum, the coolant temp sensor could have been damaged/stop working. But the engine bay is HOT!

 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/479119-r34-rb25neo-always-overheating-help/
Share on other sites

First of all why did you change the radiator? If it was ok before then revert to the stock set up and sell the Mishimoto.

While you have it apart remove the thermostat and back flush the block.

Fit a stock thermostat. Then test the new one to see if it was faulty. Even if it is not, a low temp thermostat just opens earlier. Once open it has no effect what so ever on the running temps of the engine.

  On 07/11/2019 at 7:52 PM, KiwiRS4T said:

First of all why did you change the radiator? If it was ok before then revert to the stock set up and sell the Mishimoto.

While you have it apart remove the thermostat and back flush the block.

Fit a stock thermostat. Then test the new one to see if it was faulty. Even if it is not, a low temp thermostat just opens earlier. Once open it has no effect what so ever on the running temps of the engine.

Expand  

Well i was obviously looking for better cooling capabilities out of this upgraded set up.... I have a feeling it may be the Thermostat possibly not opening? i am not to sure, how could you find out if a thermostat is doing its job?

Several things can contribute to this, however since you have recently replaced the radiator:

  1. Ensure ALL the air has been bled out of the coolant system, there is a 10mm hex head bolt near the front of the plenum for this purpose.
  2. You did not mention if the water pump was replaced, as per the manual this should be done every 100,000 km at the same time as the CAM belt.
  3. If you have access to diagnostic software and equipment for this car check the O2 sensor, if this is faulty your engine may run lean to 'compensate' for a bad reading, the leaner the fuel mix the hotter it will get.
  On 07/11/2019 at 8:51 PM, Dil-Dog said:

Well i was obviously looking for better cooling capabilities out of this upgraded set up.... I have a feeling it may be the Thermostat possibly not opening? i am not to sure, how could you find out if a thermostat is doing its job?

Expand  

To test a thermostat, remove it from the vehicle clean it, put it in a pot of cold water with a temperature gauge and slowly heat it on a stove. It should reach its maximum valve travel at the temperature it is rated for and stop moving, if it does not stop moving or does not fully open it needs to be replaced.

To find out the specs look up the part number of the manufacturers website, there should be a datasheet indicating it's travel values

  • Like 1

It is also worth noting that generally speaking, the cooling system for R chassis is actually pretty decent. Even if you're doing 30 min track abuse sessions the stock fan/shroud does the job, let alone street driving. I know it's already been suggested but getting back to a known good setup is recommended.

To be fair a decent thermo setup shouldn't cause issues for street driving either.. but its safe to say the stock Nissan Fan/Shroud/Radiator/Simple Rad upgrade that bolts to OEM positions/gear won't.

Mishimoto fans are junk, throw it into the bin.

Use the stock 250kW (or whatever your motor is making) fan you have, if you don't have it go buy a SPAL electric fan to replace that Mishimoto junk.

  • Thanks 1

UPDATE: 

For those who care and for anyone who may be able to learn and get help from this post for their projects... the problem the god awful mishimoto electric fan.
 

Its sucks booty butt cheeks and is better off being a fan for a computer or somthing... the stock clutch fan is honestly 10 times better in terms of air flow.

  • Like 2
  On 11/11/2019 at 10:44 PM, GTSBoy said:

Yes. But shit fan or not, it still shouldn't overheat while just driving around. Low power + moving car should be enough air through the radiator.

Also shit radiator.

Expand  

Not in city traffic though, especially with a FMIC in front.

And like I said earlier Mishimoto fans are junk, also have said it in the past too but people get butt hurt and get all defensive lol

  • 3 months later...

Mishimoto? sounds like some Mitsubishi after market brand....  aint none of that going on my Nissan.

+1 for stocko clutch fan.

 

only reason to change a clutch fan is if ur cold startin an e-series falcon and setting off in the morning.

(falcon sounds like ur doing 300km/hr......people look out their windows.... and see u...……... doing 3)

As I've read so far most all would rather stay with the factory clutch fan....... buuuut if one was going to take the time to wire in a set of electric fans. Which ones should be avoided or not even considered( like said mishimoto)

  On 25/02/2020 at 5:21 AM, kowalatea said:

As I've read so far most all would rather stay with the factory clutch fan....... buuuut if one was going to take the time to wire in a set of electric fans. Which ones should be avoided or not even considered( like said mishimoto)

Expand  

All of them.

  • Haha 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm not sure the diode only will give the desired result. I'd probably approach it with a couple of relays (And you still might need a diode too!). You need to be able to break the constant feed from the headlight to the orange corner globe when the indicator is flashing. Not knowing which Skyline we're talking about specifically here too (And it may not matter, but I don't know the R34 column switches) you'd likely need to rewire the stalk, so that the indicator power itself no longer runs through the stalk too, as now you need it able to trigger a relay that will break the constant supply from the headlights to the indicator, then you'll need a separate relay to trigger the indicators to come on (Replacing the internal action of the indicator stalk).
    • Weird story from me My Toyota 86 was with Commbank comprehensive but for market value (who they use to underwrite is unknown) When I munted it beyond financially viable repair in 2020, rear end smashed in to the point it bent the rear quarter and roof, they knew I paid $31k cash for it because I told them, they still paid me out $38k, as all the 2017 limited edition variants with typical Km and condition were going for between $36-41k, so they did weird math and came up with $38k I never officially mentioned any of the mods that I had done, but as they were not the cause of the crash they were not fussed at all, the insurance inspector actually asked if I wanted to replace all the mods with the OEM stuff if I still had it laying around before they took the car I still came out of it behind though, because I had probably dropped $20k in it with the suspension (bent after the prang), wheels (bent as well) and "other" mods, that the inspector asked about But still, as the market value was higher than what I initially paid, and they paid out market value To say I was surprised with the outcome would be an understatement  Weird, but true, but probably just lucky with the inspector on the day I guess  Sadly, I don't think if I munted the old NC1 MX5 I would get the same result Meh, pay to play
    • Well, the car is back, all straight and shiny, for how long for is anyone's guess  After picking it up we went for a bit of a drive, Jebus I really enjoy driving this little thing, hopefully the weather let's us go for a nice long cruise this weekend as it will be out of my hands for at least a few days next week when it heads back into Mania on Monday It's weird, whilst I do always enjoy going for a drive, the NC makes me feel like a kid who has just got his first car, and they just want to drive wherever and whenever they can I really need to look into the MX5 Club of NSW
    • wow that is some seriously JDM original credibility there!
    • Selling hks rb25 cast manifold and waste gate.   Never going to use as don't have Rb powered car  Unknown condition of waste gate diaphragm  $900 Pick up only Ipswich Qld 
×
×
  • Create New...