Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

i'm going to get off my stock turbo an put on a Garrett GTX3076.

Other mods like FMIC, 600 cc injectors, link g4+, DW fuelpump etc. will be or were already added.

So I took the head off and got it machined to have an even surface. I've cleaned the block with a razorblade to get off the rest of the oem headgasket. The machine shop took off 0.16 mm from the head to get an even surface. The oem gasket thickness is 1.2 mm as I've read, so if I add the 0.16 mm the replacement has to be at least 1.36 mm. Correct?

As I am from Germany, i've searched for a metal headgasket in the local online shops but just found 1.2 or 1.5 mm but no 1.4 or 1.3.

 

So which thickness would you recommend? Or would the oem Nissan gasket be good enough for my setup, keeping in mind that the block was only cleaned by hand?

Ok, thnks for the info. Is this the correct one? https://www.tj-partshop.com/products/13009-Tomei_Headgasket_Zylinderkopfdichtung_Nissan_RB25DET

It is available with 1.2 or 1.5 mm. Which thickness would be the right choice?

The Tomei compression rate calculator says that the oem gasket thckness is 1.1 mm and the compression is 8.97.

With the 1.2 mm gasket the compression rate would be 9.03 and with the 1.5 mm it would be 8.76. 

1 hour ago, GTSBoy said:

How can a thicker gasket increase compression ratio?

I've clculated the compression ratio value for the 1.2 mm including the 0.16 mm of material that the machine shop removed from the head.

When I use the 1.2 mm gasket it will be the same as 1.04 mm gasket with the cylinder head before machining it.

11 hours ago, Finn_GT-T said:

Ok, thnks for the info. Is this the correct one? https://www.tj-partshop.com/products/13009-Tomei_Headgasket_Zylinderkopfdichtung_Nissan_RB25DET

It is available with 1.2 or 1.5 mm. Which thickness would be the right choice?

get 1.2mm

It's 2019 not 1979 where we have shitty ECUs :) 

2 hours ago, AngryRB said:

Just get a stock RB25 head gasket and ARP studs.. 

 

You know a Tomei or Nitto head gasket is much more? Not to mention it's better than the stock composite head gasket.

 

1 hour ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

You know a Tomei or Nitto head gasket is much more? Not to mention it's better than the stock composite head gasket.

 

I know my RB3025 has no issues at 350kw, is a simple oem RB26 gasket that was very reasonable cost from Kudos with ARP studs.. 

If the block surface isnt perfect then it could leak and after pulling engines out a few times recently im over that bullshit so id advice OP to keep it simple.

 

1 minute ago, AngryRB said:

I know my RB3025 has no issues at 350kw, is a simple oem RB26 gasket that was very reasonable cost from Kudos with ARP studs.. 

If the block surface isnt perfect then it could leak and after pulling engines out a few times recently im over that bullshit so id advice OP to keep it simple.

 

You clearly missed what I said earlier about Tomei or Nitto head gaskets ?

How I see it is you've spent that money/time to take off the head and skim it, purchased a larger turbo and going to run ARP studs (over the factory head bolts), then what's an extra $200 to the equation? not much.

Not to mention the Nitto OR Tomei headgasket will seal better and also will withstand the punishment as it's o-ringed. Every car workshop does the same thing. I also got told this advice from both MRC and Billtech (both reputable RB workshops).

I would only advise going with a Cometic or similar style headgasket if your block is prepped.

12 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

Or perhaps the correct grammar version where you advise against it?

FUUARK - this is proof Asian Males cannot multitask, was typing out an e-mail to a vendor at the same time about "advising" shit too LOLOLOL

(have edited the previous failed post)

Thanks @GTSBoy

 

Thank you all for the replies. This forum is much better than the german equivalent.

ARP studs are already in my garage waiting for me to screw them into the block. I think I'll go for the tomei gasket because of the small extra cost but higher (presumed) reliability compared to the oem gasket.

Will the higher compression ratio be an issue when mapping the link ecu because of the risk of knocking? Keeping in mind that the stock knocksensors will stay in the block.

By the way, what do you think about applying permatex spay gasket to the tomei gasket before assembly? Does it help to get a better sealing, or is it just wasted money?

Edited by Finn_GT-T

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ahh got it. Well maybe install a drain for the catch can somewhere down low and accessible like a wheel well too....
    • Before you blow your car up, have you checked you've made all the correct modifications to the wiring if you're still using the RB20DE loom?   Some things to look at: The pin used for the map sensor on the RB25DET, is the same pin used on the RB20DE for the Ring Gear Crankshaft Position Sensor, no idea what you've got it plugged into now. The turbo pressure control valve solenoid you're talking about on the RB25DET, the same pin is used for the Variable Air Intake Control Valve on the RB20DE.   The factory manual has the wiring pinouts in it for you to check everything. It also has the diagnostics process to read codes out. In addition, there's a great table that shows what sensors and what actuators not functioning will relate to which signals. And Nissan confirm the as everyone else has from experience, the Solenoid being disconnected won't cause a fuel cut. However, the turbo pressure sensor being missing / wrong, WILL cause a fuel cut. https://www.nicoclub.com/service-manual?fsm=Skyline%2FR34-Workshop-Manual-English.pdf
    • I've been hunting info on the G Series II - this is best I have found so far(Link below). Still waiting on the G35-1150 comp map, kind of very keen   So how do we go about getting precision on that little table of yours ?   https://turbosbytm.com/sites/default/files/product/technical-info/Garrett-G-Series-II-Product_Flyer 25 30 35_1.pdf  
    • yeah I get ~0.6L per session into the catch can. very ethanoly. It ends up overflowing out the breather of the catch can on circuit days too even with a 2.3L capacity catch can and I only drain out ~0.6L max. So every session I have to come in and drain the catch can, which is a hassle. So this is me cracking the shits and doing everything I can without removing the motor (back of head sump drain/breather and oil restrictors off the table). plans short term are: full length splash plates remove oem cam cover baffle add foam and reinstall at -10 or -12 AN fittings to the side of the cam covers down to the sump (luckily I already have fittings in the sump) Yes the ~340,000km unopened motor is probably not helping things
    • I'd use any fuel safe foam....mine went in 15 years and 15 rebuilds ago, still getting reused I'd have to say I don't understand swapping to studs to fit a particular baffle unless you are having a massive blowby issue, and even if you are addressing crankcase not head breathing is probably the next step.
×
×
  • Create New...