1991 GT-R

[Jjtxaz24]

3 hours ago, BK said:

Depends, but sometimes yeah all 24 need replacing if you can't swap them around into different locations at all. Don't get genuine, stopped doing that a long time ago as it can cost a fortune. There are better options:

http://www.precisionshims.com.au/

ok, so I been obsessing over this whole shim thing and looking over the FSM. From what I have gathered is there are 2 things that I have to do.

1) measure the valve clearance (so I do that before I even take off the cam) and write the results going off the circled specs.

2) remove the cam and take out the shim and measure the thickness, then replace the shim that is not in tolerance of the original spec. I didn't see the original spec listed like I did for the valve clearance. (yes, I see on there now in the picture that it says to replace after every disassembly)

Note: Again, from what I have understood is: 1) measure the valve clearance 2) write the number 3) get the shim thickness 4) find the difference to in the shim and that will get me the new shim measurement to order 5) install the shim and make sure the intake is at .45mm and exhaust is at .38mm. then im good to go to reinstall the cams and move forward, correct?

 

 

 

[BK]

That's correct.

[Jjtxaz24]

I checked the ones I can check. The feeler gauges fit just right and slid in. When I tried to go up to the next size up I was forcing it in and it was bending the feeler gauge. 

The instructions say to turn the crank. I'm assuming this valve clearance is to be checked when the timing belt is on to make it rotate in firing order and that's how they get checked. 

When I tried to rotate the cam itself it felt difficult so I stopped and just set it all back to being timed, guess I have to wait till I get the timing belt on rotate it as a whole with the crank, then I can check em. 

[BK]

Just a tip make sure you are checking with 2 sets of feeler blades from each side as per the manual. A lot of people check just from one side, which is sort of fine, but I have noticed different reading between measuring from one side vs from both sides.

[Jjtxaz24]

10 minutes ago, BK said:

Just a tip make sure you are checking with 2 sets of feeler blades from each side as per the manual. A lot of people check just from one side, which is sort of fine, but I have noticed different reading between measuring from one side vs from both sides.

That is correct, that is the method I used/using (feelers from both sides).

On the intake side it is a bit more difficult due to the fuel rail etc still being on. 

Exhaust side was a lot easier. 

[Jjtxaz24]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Water-Coolant-Line-Kit-For-R32-R33-RB26DETT-GT-R-with-Stock-TB25-Twin-Turbo-/302848068128

I wanna replace the coolant lines with these. What's the longevity or experience if you all have had any. 

If I could replace the hard lines for vacuum, oil and coolant that run to the turbos thatd be cool too. Any recommendations?

 

These look like a better buy: https://www.ebay.com/p/2274087840

Edited December 4, 2019 by Jjtxaz24

[Jjtxaz24]

So how do I get this tensioner stud out. Tried the 2 nuts on there and things tight. Dont think it's coming off. 

[R.3.2.G.T.R]

Whilst you at it, change to adjustable cam gears

[Jjtxaz24]

1 hour ago, R.3.2.G.T.R said:

Whilst you at it, change to adjustable cam gears

Ive thought about it. Havent pulled the trigger on em yet though. 

[Duncan]

It's just a stud in a thread, but it could be seized. Couple of tricks

-spray well with penetrating oil over a day or 3

-heat often loosens these things, eg a 15sec with a blow torch

-with a nut just protruding, give it a firm hit with a hammer to loosen the threads.

if it is the lock nut coming undone from the 2nd nut you need to tighten them. If you think there is too much force and they still are not turning, try those 3 tricks

[r32-25t]

Why are you even trying to take it out?

[Jjtxaz24]

1 hour ago, Duncan said:

It's just a stud in a thread, but it could be seized. Couple of tricks

-spray well with penetrating oil over a day or 3

-heat often loosens these things, eg a 15sec with a blow torch

-with a nut just protruding, give it a firm hit with a hammer to loosen the threads.

if it is the lock nut coming undone from the 2nd nut you need to tighten them. If you think there is too much force and they still are not turning, try those 3 tricks

I'll give that a try. 

53 minutes ago, r32-25t said:

Why are you even trying to take it out?

I was advised to change it. So I ordered the bolt and wanted to have it out before the new one got here cuz I guess these are prone to snapping. 

[Ben C34]

39 minutes ago, Jjtxaz24 said:

I'll give that a try. 

I was advised to change it. So I ordered the bolt and wanted to have it out before the new one got here cuz I guess these are prone to snapping. 

I wouldn't say they are prone to snapping. They are prone to guys overtorquiing them when changing timing belts then they snap. It's not like a Design flaw or anything

[Jjtxaz24]

1 hour ago, Ben C34 said:

I wouldn't say they are prone to snapping. They are prone to guys overtorquiing them when changing timing belts then they snap. It's not like a Design flaw or anything

Well in that case. I'll leave it be. Appreciate it. I wont overtighten em. Got a torque wrench and the FSM for bolt specs. 

[r32-25t]

The bolt is for the idler, the stud is for the tensioner 

[Jjtxaz24]

8 hours ago, r32-25t said:

The bolt is for the idler, the stud is for the tensioner 

Yeah. Ordered both. Tensioner stud is the one I couldnt remove. 

[Jjtxaz24]

Putting it back together sucked, rebuilding the turbos sucked too. 

I fired her up and she stumbled at first but once it got going she idled good and sounds good.

Here's turbo 1 after the rebuild: 

 

Here's turbo 2 after the rebuild, I was just using a shop vac to see if had any shaft play or whatnot : 

 

We had to leave my house and go up the street to bleed and burp the air out of the coolant neighbor started complaining it was too loud. The timing belt is a gates so it was a little whiney when we started it. It seems good now

 

Here's a little backfire:

I'm getting some cut outside when I hit the higher RPMs. I have a fuel filter so I'm gonna change that out, then I'll go to updating the injectors and fuel rail and fuel pump. Another project for another time. I'll enjoy this for now. 

Still got more to do on this. Having the front brake calipers powder coated to match the engine bay valve covers and cam cover. I have the rear pads and rotors  as well as front pads and rotors.

Need to get new CV boots on there. The other ones popped off that I just replaced not to long ago. I might have not clamped em down tight enough. I'll check it out tomorrow. 

Thanks for all the help. 

[Jjtxaz24]

Yesterday when I let the car idle after sorting out all the little issues I didnt really hear the "lopeyness" in it. I was expecting it to sound something like this: 

 

I have the same cams and seems like the same mods. Im pretty stock internal wise only mods that i have done is the 3" exhaust, rebuilt the stock turbos with better internals and had them balanced, the Tomei Poncams 262* 9.15 car came with mushroom intake filter, and I added the HKS BOV. not much else engine wise. 

 

Also, I mentioned in my prior post that it seemed like it was breaking up on the higher RPMs, i'm hoping its something as simple as just some fouled plugs so Im gonna change those out today, if not what else do you guys think it can be. I do have a Nistune and can log data if that would help anyone help me. 

[GTSBoy]

Missing at revs under load should usually be blamed on coils before anything else, and then after that, on just about everything else in the ignition system (coil loom, ignitor, CAS).

[BK]

It's almost a knee jerk response now isn't it, "it's the coils". Most of the time it's true though.