Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Thank you sir. Looks like I'll be grabbing the Z1 mounts and their magnetic oil sump drain plug then. I don't mind feeling a little bit of vibration. I've always heard it's quite insignificant and besides which, I'd much rather sacrifice a bit of comfort knowing that everything is sitting in there a little more solid.

I'll grab the Whiteline bits while I'm at it so that I can do it all in one fell swoop on my mate's hoist. Any tips/tricks on changing the engine mounts? I see the space is a bit cramped in there for getting at the top nuts.

Edited by The Max

Just be patient, its a really tough job. You'll probably have to unbolt the engine mount bracket from the block to slide the mount up & off.

One side is heaps harder than the other, not sure which now. Anyhow, good luck with it all. 

Cheers.

  • Like 1
  • 1 month later...
  • 3 months later...

G'day Mate, yes it absolutely is. Its at just a Tad under 10psi & a pretty conservative tune.

We started to get a little bit of Transmission slip & decided to leave it there.

The VQ just wants to make Power.

I've since been doing some street logging & making adjustments to the Transmission related Torque Tables in Uprev & it seems to be cured.

Grip or lack of it is the biggest issue at the moment. I have a set of R888r's to go on it later this week so that should help.

That & bringing the Driver up to Speed.

Cheers Mate.

1 hour ago, mycarhasposessedme said:

G'day Mate, yes it absolutely is. Its at just a Tad under 10psi & a pretty conservative tune.

We started to get a little bit of Transmission slip & decided to leave it there.

The VQ just wants to make Power.

I've since been doing some street logging & making adjustments to the Transmission related Torque Tables in Uprev & it seems to be cured.

Grip or lack of it is the biggest issue at the moment. I have a set of R888r's to go on it later this week so that should help.

That & bringing the Driver up to Speed.

Cheers Mate.

Yeah i looked into doing it on my v36. Was always told if you want above 500rwhp the tranny (5AT) May start to slip with the amount of torque, Guess it just takes alot of fine tuning to get it right.

Worst case i have a backup 5AT Up here in Brisbane if yours dies and you want to build one.

 

Are you running wider wheels? Surely running a 10.5 Wide would help.

 

 

 



 

Cheers Dash, yes I agree, hopefully I can Make it live for a while with a few tricks & being a bit kind to it.(probably not going to happen)

It is shift kitted, so that may help. Biggest issue is when you change injector size it throws the Base Fuel Schedule Right off.

BFS is the Main Calculation that the ECU Uses to predict Torque at any given load.

So if you double injector size, the Engine ecu tells the Trans Ecu to only expect half the Torque at the given load point.

Trans Ecu adjusts Line pressure accordingly, at least thats my understanding.

There are 2 Tables I have been working on & the results are fantastic so far.

Once the R888's go on it will probably need more work, as the tyres let go before any real load can be applied to the trans in 1st second & Third. 

A lot of Tuners are un aware of this function too, which kinda sucks, as you could destroy your tranny pretty quickly without tweaking the tables.

And of course you have the mechanical limitations of the Trans friction plates.

If at full line pressure they still slip, its upgrade trans time.

Cheers Mate.

I honestly have no idea regarding the 7at but would assume they have similar Stock Torque handling capacity.

Plenty of Guys with Turbo 7at Zeds in the US, seems to be pretty much the same upgrade path as the 5at. Billet Flex Plate & Rebuilt Trans either by IPP or Level 10. 

Now that I have tweaked the Torque Tables the 5at seems totally fine at this stage. I guess the test will be, as I mentioned, when the R Compound Tyres go on.

At least I can Log AT Slip & keep an eye on it, hopefully all will be good.

Cheers.

  • Like 2
  • 1 year later...
On 3/12/19 at 9:11 AM, mycarhasposessedme said:

Finally Gotten around to starting my Diy RHD Twin Turbo Build.

Posting it all up to my Youtube Channel as i'm **** at typing stuff out

I've already done 2 fuel system mod vids, but this is the first proper start of the Twin Turbo Build.

Hope some of you guys find it interesting.

 

Scrolling through these to see what options I have for my 370gt. My lady has done 133k. Would you recommend a full rebuild or start something separate and fit later? Also what lights have you got fitted and where did you get them?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If you've only done the upper control arms on the rear, AND you have changed their length (by more than about 1mm) to set the camber you want, then you will definitely need/want to install traction arms also. Adjusting the camber arms on their own WILL introduce bump steer and make the car unpleasant to drive. Most owners have no idea that their car could behave infinitely better than what they put up with. I'm not entirely sure what the Stageas need, but I am thinking that unless you have massive front spring rates and pretty soft rear springs, you have waaaay too much rear bar. Oversteer city, in my estimation. Combined with possible excessive bump steer from maladjusted arms, that could be a recipe for nastiness. ATR43SS2 is not a highflow. It is an outright replacement turbo. It's a little bit bigger than the largest highflow profile that Tao does. Probably a solid 300rwkW turbo where the bigger highflows will be about 30-40rwkW less. Nevertheless, we're only talking about ~300 rwkW, which is well within the abilities of the stock ECu to run with a Nistune on board. I would do so without hesitation - and I will be doing so when I get my finger out and actually get the injectors and AFM installed. But, if you would prefer to drop a whole lot more money on the ECU side, then I suspect you're looking at Haltech. The Haltech fanbois here will all spout on about all the available engine protection you can have, that you can't have with the Nistune option. And they're right. But it doesn't really come for free either. You will spend more money on extra sensors and the like, plus the work to install them. If the engine was built and therefore represented a big investment to protect, then I'd say definitely do it. If you view the current (and forever into the future) shortage of replacement engines as something to prompt similar protection, then also, do it. If you see a destroyed RB25 as an opportunity to put in a Mercedes or other V12 (like I kinda do)... then your perception of the risk/reward might differ. These are good injectors. You can also get a "better" set of the same with more flow matching, for more $$. 1000cc is where you will want to be. You will need an R35 AFM and adapter tube if you want to stay with Nistuned stock ECU. Otherwise, if going Haltech, you can ignore. As for intercooler. Just about anything will do. You're only talking about ~300rwkW. Just put a big core in there. Be aware that return flows do add significant pressure drop and will cost power and will make the turbo work harder to achieve the same goals. If you can manage a proper crossflow, do it. I'm keeping my very good return flow because I'm only expecting to be in the ~250rwkW range, and will live with whatever outcome I get.
    • I have a heap that i have collected if you want some authentic ones still. Pm me if your interested!
    • Hey lads, reviving an old thread.  As an update, since the last time replied to this thread, ive done mostly suspension. Havent touched the motor except for maintenance. Though upon changing spark plugs, found out i had splitfires pre-installed! Updates: - Got me some stock airbox top cover and snorkel to fit onto the original intake. Should be free of defects - Bought a set of R34 GT-T brakes (not installed yet, going to rebuild + respray in champion blue + white 'Nissan' text) - Bought the last set of bilsteins from @Sydneykid and had them installed. Has been making some sounds on the rear but hopefully should be sorted out after this New Year break. - Regreased front caster rod bushings (poly bushes..) - Rear upper camber arms - Whiteline sway bars (BNF27Z 22mm + BNR11XXZ 24mm).  The rear sway bars are a bit short (ive read 50mm else where) but was still able to get them in.  Anyhows, I reckon suspension is sorted now. Maybe replace bushes (do have a set of front upper control arms from SK not installed yet) but should be okay for now. From now, I'm wanting to start working on the motor, drivetrain etc etc. Still debating on the order to go on and what to buy etc but: - ECU ( Haltech or Link ( Link states that it dont support A/T or AWD functions... Can anyone attest to this? ) - Highflow turbo ( ATR43ss2 ) - Intercooler ( Not decided yet, but cant find many good afoordable ones. Toshi says to opt for crossflow Japanese. Bit difficult this one, unless I get a returnflow Blitz from JJ? ) - Injectors ( Any recommendations ? I do have a nismo FPR ( Thanks SK ) ) - Seats - Tune by either Toshi or DVS To be fair, I did consider just keeping the stock turbo and nistuning it. Sat in a mates stock N, that had something like 200kw, and I reckon that felt more than enough. Maybe I should just go this route ahhaha. Too many choices.... Planning a trip down south, so wanting to just clean things up and make sure it gets to and from in one piece. Anything else specifically I should do before ? Cheers lads  
    • Must be for the car’s lucky charm 🤷🏽‍♂️ She runs fine, but it just seems to take about 1L less. Maybe I’ll have the oil sump dropped at some point to check if there is anything 
×
×
  • Create New...