Major problems are getting car “running”

[IM-32-FK]

After nearly 2 years, I finally got my car “running”. January 2018 I blew my gearbox and didn’t bother getting it replaced because I went overseas for over a year and I just come back last July. So a couple of weeks ago I got my car back from the mechanic.

i got the clutch and gearbox replaced. It’s a R34 GTT and I got the pull type gearbox and a brand new exedy heavy duty clutch. I had also got a few things done in the engine bay such as re sealing the rocker\valve cover and changing a couple of turbo gaskets and IACV gasket.

The first problem is when the clutch pedal is pressed down, it sometimes makes this loud winding/grinding noise. It only makes the sound when I’m stationary. So I put it in gear and as the pedal is pressed down, a loud noise comes from the transmission. When I take it out of gear and put it back to neutral, the sound goes away. It doesn’t do this all the time, but I realised when I cold start the car it does it a lot. After driving for ten mins or so it seems to go away (can’t say for sure though didn’t drive it for more than 30 mins). Like it said, it makes this sound when the clutch pedal is pressed down only and while stationary. I put Lightweight Shockproof oil in the gearbox.

The other problem is the car won’t rev past 3000rpm and around 0.38 bar which is about 5psi ish. The car would normally run 12psi. It’s a r34 rb25det neo op6 stock turbo and I got a power fc tune. I think it’s important to note that the engine got started for the first time in nearly 2 years a couple of weeks back. When in neutral the car would rev past 3000. Also the screen on my power fc hand controller won’t turn on anymore but the buttons still light up. Unplugging and plugging it back in didn’t change anything. I get a feeling the car is in limp mode only because the boost is cutting out around stock factory psi levels but I could be wrong. 

Any help would be appreciated I really want to drive my car again!! Thank you

 

Edited December 3, 2019 by IM-32-FK

[Shoota_77]

Ok the noise is your release bearing. Should have been replaced when clutch was done. If not, don't use that mechanic again... Unless the sound is there for a little while when you put your foot on the clutch then stops after a bit? If it does that then it's spigot bush in the crank. Again, should always be done during clutch replacement. 

With the rev limit, is it revving cleanly or is it stuttering and carrying on to get up to its max revs?

[IM-32-FK]

4 hours ago, Shoota_77 said:

Ok the noise is your release bearing. Should have been replaced when clutch was done. If not, don't use that mechanic again... Unless the sound is there for a little while when you put your foot on the clutch then stops after a bit? If it does that then it's spigot bush in the crank. Again, should always be done during clutch replacement. 

With the rev limit, is it revving cleanly or is it stuttering and carrying on to get up to its max revs?

I guess I’ll have to go take it back to him to get it sorted with no extra charge. The winding grinding noise is so loud that I can tell it’s not a normal sound the clutch should make. I didn’t leave it in gear or release the clutch pedal when it makes the sound, I quickly put it in neutral

with the rev limit, it revs out cleaning up until it reaches 3000ish and around 0.38 bar, when won’t rev past that.

Edited December 4, 2019 by IM-32-FK

[GTSBoy]

Stock wastegate spring pressure is 5 psi. That is very close to 0.38 bar. I would suggest that your boost control solenoid is not functioning. This could be because it is stuck, or because the PowerFC has lost its mind after being left for 2 years (possible, but it really shouldn't happen). Or it might be a plumbing problem.

If the PowerFC has lost its mind, then it could explain everything.

[IM-32-FK]

58 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

Stock wastegate spring pressure is 5 psi. That is very close to 0.38 bar. I would suggest that your boost control solenoid is not functioning. This could be because it is stuck, or because the PowerFC has lost its mind after being left for 2 years (possible, but it really shouldn't happen). Or it might be a plumbing problem.

If the PowerFC has lost its mind, then it could explain everything.

I just had a look at it and took the blitz dual sbc electronic boost controller solenoid off. I blew into the solenoid and I can feel the air escaping from the other end. Also on the solenoid, the plastic nipple was connected to the actuator and the metal nipple is connected to a nipple on the turbo elbow. The hose coming from the intake/bov return is blocked off. There are no T piece connectors or anything like that. Is it set up correctly? I also blew into the vacuum hoses and don’t they feel blocked as I can feel the air escaping from the other end.

also on my previous post I meant to say “ it revs out CLEANLY up until 0.38 bar and 3000ish rpm”

also could the problem be the AFM? it was sitting on my garage shelf for a year and a half a lot of dust could’ve settled in it which could be causing problems. What product do you use to clean AFM’s? Carby cleaner?

Edited December 4, 2019 by IM-32-FK

[GTSBoy]

23 minutes ago, IM-32-FK said:

Also on the solenoid, the plastic nipple was connected to the actuator and the metal nipple is connected to a nipple on the turbo elbow. The hose coming from the intake/bov return is blocked off. There are no T piece connectors or anything like that. Is it set up correctly?

No way to tell from that description. Draw a diagram. Clearly label the ports on the solenoid, and mark which are connected when it is unpowered and which are connected when it is powered.

 

24 minutes ago, IM-32-FK said:

also could the problem be the AFM? it was sitting on my garage shelf for a year and a half a lot of dust could’ve settled in it which could be causing problems. What product do you use to clean AFM’s? Carby cleaner?

Dust shouldn't affect it. Any dust that can settle should blow off pretty quick. The correct cleaner for AFMs is CO contact cleaner or the dedicated spray stuff for AFMs.

[IM-32-FK]

Ok I labeled the image but I don’t understand what you meant when saying powered and unpowered . Also there are no t pieces or any other connectors on the hoses that go anywhere else , they just connected from one end to the other

Edited December 4, 2019 by IM-32-FK

[GTSBoy]

That does not look to me like the correct solenoid for a Blitz Dual SBC. That looks a lot like the single Blitz solenoid.

"Powered" means "when you put 12V onto the terminals and power it". "Unpowered" means.....you guessed it....

Anyway, you can google up the connection diagrams for these things and see how they are supposed to be plumbed up. Better you doing it than me.

[IM-32-FK]

1 hour ago, GTSBoy said:

That does not look to me like the correct solenoid for a Blitz Dual SBC. That looks a lot like the single Blitz solenoid.

"Powered" means "when you put 12V onto the terminals and power it". "Unpowered" means.....you guessed it....

Anyway, you can google up the connection diagrams for these things and see how they are supposed to be plumbed up. Better you doing it than me.

Yeh I looked it up and it is a single blitz solenoid. But it doesn’t matter, it was on the car when I bought it 5 years ago , so I don’t think it’s an issue.

Also I looked at a couple of videos and the connections seem right( one end to turbine housing and the other to the wastegate actuator.)

[GTSBoy]

So, when you put 12v on it, does it change state?

[IM-32-FK]

Anyway, I got the problem fixed a while back and thought I might post the solution here just in case someone runs into the same problem in the future.

- I changed my spark plugs from ngk bcpr7es -8 to ngk bcpr6es -8 . I’m running 12psi boost on rb25det neo so I had the wrong ones in there. (Bcpr7es -8 is used when running from 12-19psi)

- I changed all my coil packs from OEM to spitfire

- I cleaned the inside of the boost solenoid with contact/electrical cleaner. Black soot came out of it.

- I cleaned the inside of the air flow meter (AFM) with contact cleaner as well. There was ALOT of black soot residue in there. I had to use half a can to get all of it out (make sure you wipe the inside and the mesh netting too to get all of it out but don’t touch the sensor thingy in the middle of it with the cloth)

I don’t know which one solved the problem but it was one of them.