Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I know, I'm using an outdated ECU solution for my R32 with a Neo RB25DET.  I got my R32 from Japan a few years ago and it was already modded with the Neo engine, R34 Power FC and R35 AFM.  I just replaced the turbo and added Defi advanced sensors and a wideband O2 sensor & gauge to monitor things.  The AFR was leaning on any throttle after the turbo change.  I went to to the re-learn on the Power FC and initialized it without thinking about getting the R35 AFM's VQ Map info first... I know, completely scatter brained on my part.  The R35 AFM is mounted in a 3 inch, or 76 mm, internal diameter duct.  Does anyone have the VQ Map data available for this setup?  

I've searched and came across several links, however I'm not certain on the accuracy of the data.  This link has the Datalogit VQ map, but the screenshot states it's for a 1JZ-GTE and doesn't clarify the duct diameter: 

I've found this link, but the VQ maps are for the RB26 and SR20 and again doesn't clarify the duct size: 221746d1509718853-r35-afms-power-fc-apex

If anyone can confirm that one of these VQ Maps works, or provide one, it'd be Greatly appreciated!  I know the consensus will probably be to upgrade to a more modern ECU.  If I had the money I would!  If I can't find any of this info, I'll be saving up for a couple of months and getting a Haltech.  However, I would prefer to get it up and running with this ECU and stay a near to my already exceeded budget.

 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/479304-power-fc-r35-vq-map-info/
Share on other sites

If there is nothing reliable out there for PowerFC directly, you may be able to synthesise something from Nistune's data. They have curves for the R35 card and you can compare that to the Z32 curve in Nistune and then use that to build an R35 curve from the PowerFC Z32 curve. ie, the relationship of one to the other should be the same for each ECU.

Firstly, there is nothing wrong with a PFC, they've been reliably running rbs for decades. Yes there are newer ECUs with additional features but a PFC is able to run it perfectly until you start to get pretty highly modified.

The afm curve is not really that important. Pick whatever is closest and then just tune it. Basically your fuel map is based on whatever the AFM is telling it for load, so whatever it is set to when you tune is fine. Just don't change it after you tune it!

If you are trying to put back an unknown AFM curve so your tune will be OK again, you are out of luck. Even 1% different to the original curve can be enough to make the tune unsafe.

FWIW I do have the rb26 data for standard, vg30, vh41, power intake and the calculated result I used for nismo afms per GTSBoy's approach because I went through that (turns out vg30 and nismo afms are not exactly the same after all) but it was pre-tuning, and it was never really worth the effort because you still just tune the result the same way

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Please do not connect it to your manifold. If you do, as GTS suggested please record the lot in 4K with good mics attached.   On the factory Skyline, there's a upside down pipe that allows it to breathe, looks like this   
    • For me I'd need some serious justification for why it has blown out.  Have you questioned him on it?  To be honest if you didn't question him right from the get-go on the first invoice that was already way over the initial quote and then you've (presumably) then paid another $1375 on top of the first invoice, then you're pushing shit uphill to get a favourable result now... It was years ago I last got an engineer out but it was around $450-$550 per visit.  That was just to inspect each progress point he gave me for the project.  Is he just doing progress inspections or is he providing engineering diagrams, technical assistance, etc??  If he's not, he's a filthy rip off merchant.  If the $3100 is the final sign off then you need to cop it on the chin, pay it and move on.  If it's not, piss him off and get a new one.  Not many Jeeps I'd value at $10K full stop let alone just engineering fees on a written off, half actual value WOVR Jeep....
    • Oh, yes. If you connected it to the manifold your first drive would be very eventful. Very shit. Very interesting. Perhaps take a video if you feel the need to see. Terminating the breather at the top of the bellhousing is normal/stock. Some gearbox lubes (hello Redline Shockproof) like to foam up a bit and require the breather to be extended up higher, so you don't get spots of smurf jizz staining the floor under your car. Mine is thus right up behind the head. Make sure you fit a u-bend at the top so it points back downward so that dirt and schmutz has a harder time getting into it.
    • Cheers for the replies. So i don't connect it to the manifold I just run the hose high up on the firewall?
    • It doesn't really answer your question...but is the head unit full android or just android auto, are you happy with how quickly it boots and responds, and do you have a link?  If we can identify good Android alternatives it will really help people stuck with Japanese screens. Did it have a separate reverse camera input so you would replace the factory one, or are you just going without now...that would be a pretty big steps back. And finally, do you have a picture of the "wire" that you can't plug in? Most likely it is some sort of aerial that is not too important eg japanese traffic or am radio or something if you haven't noticed a functionality issue
×
×
  • Create New...