Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

2 minutes ago, silviaz said:

Wait what? Are you sure? I heard no noise and I checked with an endoscope the pistons look the same.

You won't hear a noise and in the case of a mis-timed engine turning over the contact is not normally large enough to leave a large mark or damage, but is enough to bend valves

 

How do you explain the extra resistance when turning over at some points? With plugs out it is the same to spin an engine over, no Change in resistance

Just now, Ben C34 said:

You won't hear a noise and in the case of a mis-timed engine turning over the contact is not normally large enough to leave a large mark or damage, but is enough to bend valves

 

How do you explain the extra resistance when turning over at some points? With plugs out it is the same to spin an engine over, no Change in resistance

ah fml, so to confirm this should I get an mirror for my endoscope to check if the valves are bent?

9 minutes ago, Rusty Nuts said:

No, thats a compression tester, you will need an air compressor but a small one will work fine

https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/toolpro-toolpro-cylinder-leak-down-tester/392419.html

Ok ill put my engine to tdc on the silver links and do it. I assume thats the correct procedure.

Edited by silviaz
19 minutes ago, Rusty Nuts said:

you need to do all cylinders at TDC  your firing order is 1 3 4 2 so rotate one full turn after no.1 then do 3 and so on. check out some youtube vids if you haven't done one before.

I see thanks will go from there.

17 hours ago, Ben C34 said:

I would do a leak down test, or just put compressed air in and listen if it is leaking out the valves, no mirrors.

Hey man so I've set up everything and I am not touching anything anymore until a mechanic comes I'll get them to do the leakdown test since they will probably have the tool will save me some money. I also called a couple of mechanics and they said about the resistance it can happen cause pressure builds up or like you said because valve touching piston. In this vid on the first time I try to crank it, it's very tight then it's ok then it's right towards the end. This is what you're referring to right?

 

35 minutes ago, Ben C34 said:

If the spark plugs are out there is  no resistance to build up. It definetily seems from here you have likely bent valves. Hope not but that would be a long shot

dammit.  Maybe jobs like these in the future leave for someone more qualified. I would have thought following the manual would of been enough lol.

On 12/11/2019 at 8:32 PM, Rusty Nuts said:

You have been struggling with fix since early November, you probably need to get someone knowledgeable in front of this engine to help you.

Four days ago I suggested you get some help, but you were not having that!!!!!

3 hours ago, Rusty Nuts said:

Four days ago I suggested you get some help, but you were not having that!!!!!

I did I called a mechanic, and he said it was ok to crank the engine so I did. Just leaving the rest now for the mechanic. They are just busy as hell will be waiting a bit until I get my hands on one.

 

I also read back when you wrote about how I didn't have the marks lined up when I started I see what you mean now. I referred back to the manual and while it did say rotate to tdc I didn't realize the links were supposed to be there as well.

Edited by silviaz
On 12/14/2019 at 10:42 PM, Rusty Nuts said:

you need to do all cylinders at TDC  your firing order is 1 3 4 2 so rotate one full turn after no.1 then do 3 and so on. check out some youtube vids if you haven't done one before.

Great news!! Got the mechanic he didn't have to take the timing cover off,  and did the compression test had 190-210 across all cylinders. Which seems quite high service manual says 156. But cranked it didn't have any usual noises. Tomorrow will be the test to see if it turns on fine.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good morning all, Bit of a random question but figured I’d finally throw it out after wondering for a long while. Before I start, I'm hoping to do this purely out of personal preference. I think it would look better at night, and don't mind at all spending a few hours and dollars to get it done. I've copied this from a non-Skyline specific forum, so I apologize for the explanation of our headlight switch setup that we all know. Here we go: Zero lights (switch off) Parking lights (switch position 1) being a rectangular marker on the outside of the housing, my low beam being the projector in the centre (position 2), and a high beam triggered by my turn signal stalk. Most North American cars I’ve owned of this era have power to the amber corner (turning indicator) light as part of the first switch (parking lights). I’d love to have these amber corners receive power when the headlights and parking lights are on (headlight switch), yet still blink when using the turn signal which is of course a separate switch. Hopefully I’ve explained my question correctly. Is anyone aware of a way in which I might be able to achieve this? Thanks in advance
    • My heads are cathedral port! It's likely possible, but I don't want to add any extra moving parts (I know they don't move) between the heads, manifolds, etc. It will also affect how injectors/fuel rails etc sit and I don't really know if it would change how the FAST manifold goes/sits/fits. I have the LS6 steam pipes already as I have a very late LS1 block so it should be fine. I couldn't find anyone who had ever actually used one for this purpose, it seems 100% of people grind the water pump. The thermal spacers are 12mm and are half way to the cost of the newer water pump anyhow... so if it comes to that I suppose I'd rather buy a new pump. The bearing in the pump I do have is a little.. clunky, but it hasn't done that much time and I never noticed it when the car was together in the past few years, so..
    • The bushing has failed, not all that uncommon for a car of this age.  Any mechanic should be able to push in a new bushing for you, or you can probably buy the entire lower control arm, complete with bushes.
    • Could you not use "thermal" spacers to give the clearance, like the ones I used between the blower and head? That raised the manifold height by around 10-15mm Albeit the ones I used were for cathedral ports, but I assume they have similar for rectangular ports????
    • Thanks Paul I reached out to Autotainment but they no longer work on JDM cars as the guy who used to do the work moved on and is no longer doing that kind of work. I am talking with Level Up Audio though.
×
×
  • Create New...