Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

im looking for a replacement radiator (see here if u happen to have one) as i think my current one has blown (car overheated and it was leaking coolant), my problem is though im not 100% sure what radiator i currently have, and i dont know how to check.

here are some pics with radiator in it if it helps determine what radiator i have. and more to the point, are there any major differences between the r32 and r33 (gts-t and gtr) radiators?

pics:

http://irg.ausgamers.com/silvia/engine1.jpg

http://irg.ausgamers.com/silvia/engine3.jpg

http://irg.ausgamers.com/silvia/elecfans1.jpg

thanks in advance for any help

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/47934-radiator-differences/
Share on other sites

Looks like an RB20DET radiator.

The R33 and R32 GTST radiators are almost identical.

Also.. I've had the same setup as yours (2 x 12" Thermo's) and it would overheat on warmish days with the A/C on. It took a while but it would overheat eventually.

Even though it appeard to be at operating temp it used to often spit out coolant.

I removed the 2 thermo's and slaped the origional clutch fan on and overheating and coolant spitting problems went away.

Get some thing with a shroud! That setup is honestly no good.

Pop down to a jap wrecker and get a generic factory twin thermo setup with shroud!

as u can imagine there isnt very much room in an s13 engine bay with an rb25 in it.

im gonna see if i can stick a fan between the air con radiator and whatever replacement radiator i get, then perhaps get a smaller fan on the right hand side (side nearly touching pulleys). i dont think a normal clutch setup would work? (do u mean the crank driven one?)

They are probably pretty much all the same. I just installed a RB25DET in my 32 GTS4, and the only difference was in the top radiator hose.

It's probably best to get the radiator that comes from the same car as the engine - can't go wrong with that.

Are you sure it's the radiator? Import engines have a tendency to blow hoses anywhere on the engine, because the Japs don't take care of their engines, and don't use coolant in the cooling system.

For your overheating problems, you need to build some sort of undertray to:

1 prevent the air going down in front of the radiator and out under the car

2 draw the air out of the engine bay so that air has to come in through the radiator.

You could also re-wire the little thermo out front of the A/C radiator so that it comes on when you activate the A/C - presently, it's probably activating thermostatically.

i did a compressed air test on it, and there was definitely a leak from the middle of the radiator. im assuming i lost/was losing all the coolant down to the leak (about half way down radiator) and hence the overheating. at least i hope that was the cause, but nonetheless the radiator did have a leak, so hopefully it was just that.

generally speaking the temps were reasonably ok until the day it happened, so i think the cooling is sufficient, although ill look at getting one bigger thermo fan to replace the two smaller ones, hopefully having similar effect whilst giving more leeway to the pulleys of the engine, as small frontal impact and the fans mandle up all the pulleys.

ive got a few pics taken of the radiator if anyone is able to spot what it is, but presumably its the rb25 one, taken from the half cut.

http://irg.ausgamers.com/silvia/rad1.jpg

http://irg.ausgamers.com/silvia/rad2.jpg

http://irg.ausgamers.com/silvia/rad3.jpg

http://irg.ausgamers.com/silvia/rad4.jpg

http://irg.ausgamers.com/silvia/rad5.jpg

as can be seen, whoever put the radiator in decided to just drill holes thru it for the thermo fans, although the leak wasnt directly near any of the holes.

as for the thermo fans, i think they are all permanently on anyway.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • In all the track days I've done over the past few months I've only had 1 issue with braking and thats with my current EBC pads (can't remember the colour, but they're not a track pad). I don't *think* I have had issues with brake fluid getting too hot, my understanding is that when that happens you will have quite noticeable brake loss - which I haven't had.  I'm using just regular ol' Penrite Super DOT4 fluid. I use this fluid in everything and my cars always seem to stop so I see no reason to change, except ... for the 335i. I need to do a fluid flush and was thinking about my fluid of choice and wondering if I should consider using something more high temp? Its not a super fast car by any standards but I'd hate to do a flush and then find myself with no brakes when I get. to Wakefield.  I guess, my question can be summed up as "How fast do you need to be driving to need higher temp brake fluid?"  I remember high temp fluid was considered a must have back in the day when I had my GTR. 
    • For anyone that comes here looking for answers on what can go wrong with gts-4 to rb25detneo swap. The Gloria's awd sump is different and does not fit. The rb25neo from stagea are exactly the same sump bolt pattern and axel alignment. Castings numbers are different on Gloria's blocks and oilpans if they need to be identified.
    • I have information on this for anyone that comes looking again. https://www.facebook.com/share/p/18gsbFaYTU/ The rb25det neo from the stagea has the same sumo as rb26 and r32 gts4 (and other awd models). The sump that has caused so many problems during swaps are from the awd neo Gloria's. The casting numbers on the block and oil pans are different so this may help identify if you can't confirm where the motor came from
    • Not feasible to fix the boot lid you had? Damage looked minor/hard to even see :p Source: Drove into something recently and you should be happy you didn't!
    • Another new used boot arrived at the painters, it was sent back as there was nearly as much damage as the original one I want to replace  Finding a clean used boot lid is proving problematic, and I'm not keen on dropping $1500 on a new one from Mazda Sigh....
×
×
  • Create New...