Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey, 

I've had an issue with an IWG EFR turbo for about 1 year now ... I'm unable to hold anything much above spring pressure in the top end (above 6000 rpm). I've tried 3 port (with a variety of restrictors) and 4 port boost control ... 3 port gave spring pressure (@ max DC), 4 port I can manage another ~6 psi on top... nowhere near what I would expect. I've looked at WG actuator rod alignment, which is not perfect (had to machine some spacers) but seems to be an unlikely cause.

Going a larger spring works (I've tried up to 24 psi) but it's for a S15 which struggles for traction in lower gears (needs boost by gear). 

Has anyone seen this before? Or can it be considered typical behaviour and I should just tune around it?

Any advice would be much appreciated.

Current Build:  SR20 + VE head + EFR 7163 TS + Twin Port Turbosmart WG actuator + 3inch Exhaust

 

 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/479488-unusual-boost-control-issue/
Share on other sites

Quote

Sure you have the turbosmart plumbed correctly? How is it controlled - by your aftermarket ECU?

Yep, Turbosmart actuator was plumbed following the image below for 4 port testing. Boost control seems to work fine at lower RPMs... so I don't think its the plumbing. I'm using a Haltech Platinum Pro for the ECU. 

Its behaving like it has really high back pressure, I can use normal duty cycles (~20%) at lower RPMs (0-4000) but I have to quickly ramp in a lot of DC at rpm increases (e.g. 65%). If I use >65% DC at higher RPMs boost quickly jumps from ~16 psi to ~30 psi (probably maxing out turbo) as I move out of the linear range for the MAC valve. 

Ba8CDQiy65gparux2qtkn4wBpFhTWDrMzvToqcN7Nu0P_Eve4Fv1TUtzaoIofg9RpWILwNZSa21H6-hs7tlynSo8YysbMeYPbR5PL2rXE9_aDnR6LIgx2mBromzWo6XtCFXB1aeJ

 

 

 

Edited by Davets
Quote

Drill & tap a sense port for a boost gauge on the ex manifold and find out?

Yeah good call probably something I'll investigate in the future, but I'm a little worried about introducing a leak. From what I've read, unless something is seriously wrong, backpressure should not be an issue given this setup + boost level... BW MatchBot predicts an EMAP of 29psi@7000rpm with 20psi boost.

5 hours ago, Davets said:

Yep, Turbosmart actuator was plumbed following the image below for 4 port testing. Boost control seems to work fine at lower RPMs... so I don't think its the plumbing. I'm using a Haltech Platinum Pro for the ECU. 

Its behaving like it has really high back pressure, I can use normal duty cycles (~20%) at lower RPMs (0-4000) but I have to quickly ramp in a lot of DC at rpm increases (e.g. 65%). If I use >65% DC at higher RPMs boost quickly jumps from ~16 psi to ~30 psi (probably maxing out turbo) as I move out of the linear range for the MAC valve. 

Ba8CDQiy65gparux2qtkn4wBpFhTWDrMzvToqcN7Nu0P_Eve4Fv1TUtzaoIofg9RpWILwNZSa21H6-hs7tlynSo8YysbMeYPbR5PL2rXE9_aDnR6LIgx2mBromzWo6XtCFXB1aeJ

 

 

 

You say if you increase the duty cycle past 65% boost will go to 30 psi. Is this not the result that you want? As you go past 4000rpm there will be a huge increase in the pressure on the w/g to open and therefore will require a corresponding increase in the pressure to hold the w/g shut.

Quote

You say if you increase the duty cycle past 65% boost will go to 30 psi. Is this not the result that you want? As you go past 4000rpm there will be a huge increase in the pressure on the w/g to open and therefore will require a corresponding increase in the pressure to hold the w/g shut.

With 4 port control it can hit 30 psi with 70% DC but it's not controllable / consistent as small changes in DC results in massive changes in boost pressure (can't hit the pressures between 16 and 30 psi). I believe this instability is fairly standard behaviour for 4 ports.

Sounds like an EMAP sensor should be the next move...

 

  • Like 1
Quote

Do you have any specs on the boost control solenoid you are using?   What frequency are you controlling it at?

Both 3 port and 4 port soleniods are Turbosmart eBoost2 MAC valves, which don't seem to have full MAC part numbers on them...  I'm driving both via a DPO on a Haltech IO expander box @20-30 Hz. Pretty sure this is the 4 port. Are turbosmart solenoids driven differently? 

How have you set up your wastegate duty cycle and boost target maps? 

Does it start high and tapper down? Also depends what duty cycle is set at, had similar issues a while ago with a wrx with efr7670

Quote

How have you set up your wastegate duty cycle and boost target maps? 

Does it start high and tapper down? Also depends what duty cycle is set at, had similar issues a while ago with a wrx with efr7670

Duty cycle starts at 20% then tapers up with rpm.

I've attached a log when I was using 4 port and 7 psi WG spring. Boost is 17 psi at peak (4200 rpm, 20% DC) then tapers down to 12.8psi (6500 rpm, 45% DC). 

unnamed.thumb.png.ef1f90439d98dfcef0775fdca0a679dd.png

Edited by Davets
33 minutes ago, Davets said:

Duty cycle starts at 20% then tapers up with rpm.

I've attached a log when I was using 4 port and 7 psi WG spring. Boost is 17 psi at peak (4200 rpm, 20% DC) then tapers down to 12.8psi (6500 rpm, 45% DC). 

unnamed.thumb.png.ef1f90439d98dfcef0775fdca0a679dd.png

what happens with no closed loop control, just a set duty cycle?

it looks like you are getting the opposite result to expected.

2 hours ago, Ben C34 said:

what happens with no closed loop control, just a set duty cycle?

it looks like you are getting the opposite result to expected.

Here's two logs both with 4 port and 10 psi WG spring. Top one is with constant 20% DC, bottom one has 30%. The 30% DC run got another 4-5 psi at peak boost, but only 2 psi at the end of the run. 

unnamed (1).png

Edited by Davets

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I have copied the images in the original post from photobucket to the SAU servers to make sure they stay available.
    • Mate you saved be from dying in the Perth summer. AC wasn't changing direction and just going into diagnostics mode fixed it. You're a legend and I would shout you a beer if I could!
    • Unfortunately effort gone to waste, you will have substantial issues with how the manifold and wastegate have been integrated. You would be so much better off with a modified stock manifold like this: https://hypergearturbos.com/product/rb25detexgatedmanifold/   OR literally just getting a off the shelf Sinco or 6Boost manifold as myself and others have mentioned.  
    • Yuck. But it's kinda the same principle, moving timing around to make car run bad but sound good.... I went for a more spirited tuning drive to iron out a few things. Car no longer stalls, and it loved to dip RPM low when you clutch in. After tuning this (and the 4-5 tables that HPTuners/LS1 OEM ECU wants for idle air correction) it's now behaving somewhat normal. All expected because there's a new TB, new Intake manifold and that new TB which is 102mm vs 78... has an entirely different IAC passage which is smaller because ????? Unfortunately at this point I went to make further fine tuning changes to avoid it flaring up, you know... _tuning_ the HPTuners dongle died. Well to be more accurate - The USB cable died in a fashion that anyone who has ever charged a phone will recognize. After the app demanding I resync it 50 or so times (which all 'succeeded' but all failed) the device does not want to sync and I've logged a ticket with support to see if it's fixable. US Support said it was a 'storage issue' but after removing the SD card inside it and formatting it/fixing it the issue does persist. Unfortunately usually the fix is "Turn in your old dongle and pay $700 for the upgraded one" it's cheaper because I get some free licence credits I unfortunately don't need. However I'm 10 minutes down the road from HP Tuners AUS/VCM so at least I won't need to post it, and logged a new ticket for support over here. Definitely drives different. My SOTP dyno believes it's probably making 310-320kw instead of the 280 before.  It scrambles for traction a little now whereas it previously different. It drives like a bigger cam car up top even though the cam is smaller, likely due to the cam not being advanced 6 degrees. The timing is deliberately low and the fuel is very rich so who knows if this will improve on the dyno. It may, imperceptably. Also funny is removing the pineapples definitely makes the car squat more and axle tramp less. So this behavior of having more top end, squatting more, and scrabbling for traction more makes me think = more power. But I could have just been sitting on the threshold of that kind of behavior before. Time will tell if my butt dyno is calibrated right. I need the exhaust leaks fixed before dyno tune for obvious AFR related reasons - I repositioned the pipes but I'm not confident it's fully sealed even if it is better. At least the car does drive around while I cannot tweak/tune it for now. And I have aircon again. medium success!
×
×
  • Create New...