Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

G'day All

Well it's been a while since I've owned a skyline and I'm looking into a R34 GT-T, I sold my last one over 5 years ago at 120xxxkm & the one I have my eye on currently has just under 190ks. My hesitation lies in the possibility of re-selling down the track when it's more likely going to have done 220ks...do you think the R34 will retain value past 200,000km and a market for buyers at that km? I'm not massive into modding etc, would just be something to enjoy owning once again. Cheers, Neo34

3 hours ago, Ben C34 said:

As time ticks by the ks matter much less of they aren't verified.

Does the car you are looking at have full history to verify the ks? Did your previous car?

 

It has some import papers but nothing else, I'm strongly considering spending the $ and getting a check from Japan if it's going to assist in verifying ks 

13 hours ago, neopowered34 said:

It has some import papers but nothing else, I'm strongly considering spending the $ and getting a check from Japan if it's going to assist in verifying ks 

For me, it would depend on condition at these kms. 100+ kms on the clock and you know you aren't buying a low km car. 
At that point you should be looking at condition more than anything else. 

You could get a check, but i'm not sure if it would be worth it. If it were me, i'd rather spend the money on a decent mechanical inspection by a Skyline expert (or at least someone familiar with them). 

Regarding your concern around re-sale value, at these price points, I would expect these to hold their value over the next 10 years. However, I would not expect this to appreciate. If you were super keen on buying something that will appreciate, I would suggest looking at a stock, low kms GTT or equivalent.

Condition is the only thing that matters. My car is at 230k km and has had 2 engines, 4 different transmissions, 2 rear subframes, 3 different sized front brake setups, every suspension bush changed at least twice, some as many as 10 times. 3 different radiators, 3 ECUs, etc etc etc.

Some parts of the car are still original.

52 minutes ago, Steve85 said:

 

Regarding your concern around re-sale value, at these price points, I would expect these to hold their value over the next 10 years. However, I would not expect this to appreciate. If you were super keen on buying something that will appreciate, I would suggest looking at a stock, low kms GTT or equivalent.

Thanks for the reply and I agree with your projection; I’m specifically wanting something that will at a minimum hold value i.e a bayside blue GT-T or a Stock low km GT-T with factory options. PMd you something for further discussion 

  • Like 1
1 hour ago, niZmO_Man said:

Definitely do a history check. Could have been smashed and fixed, could also be a good condition import, who knows.

Will do, it’s $95 USD...but a small investment for a 20k + car

22 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

Condition is the only thing that matters. My car is at 230k km and has had 2 engines, 4 different transmissions, 2 rear subframes, 3 different sized front brake setups, every suspension bush changed at least twice, some as many as 10 times. 3 different radiators, 3 ECUs, etc etc etc.

Some parts of the car are still original.

This is true. 99.9% of Skylines now are some variant of Grandfather's Axe/Ship of Thesus. Condition and kms are nearly completely disconnected nowadays.

Nearly ?

6 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Remove dash, replace with MoTec C1212. tell next buyer no idea of KM.

I'm after one that's as close to stock as possible, this would probably hurt the value but yes would stop Km going up ?

On 15/01/2020 at 9:02 AM, KiwiRS4T said:

Checkout the steering wheel, has paddle shift, may have been a conversion or replacement....

2 hours ago, neopowered34 said:

Checkout the steering wheel, has paddle shift, may have been a conversion or replacement....

VIN is JN1GCER34A0202109 which shows as factory auto, good spotting.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yea the photos aren't the best. When I was pulling the bumper and headlights out there was a bodyshop guy looking on for it, there is a slight bend behind where the passenger headlight is, but we're talking a few MM and there is a little bit of a bend for the reo. That said it's supposedly well within the "Drill a hole in it and pull it out with a slide hammer to be close enough" and be on our way. The other option is to buy a GTR reo for the GTR bumper bits but this is a $2000+ fix for something Mr Hammer can probably do 99% of the job for and everything will/can line up pretty closely-to-good-enough.
    • That's a write off for sure... Part out? 😛 I kid. It looks like the rad support has a minor minor bend in it too where the rep support sits near. Could just be the photos (and me not wearing my glasses right now). Worst case is you can buy a new radiator support, have it swapped over, and leave the car in paint jail for 12 to 18 months while you build the motor to handle twin turbos or a Harrop SC...
    • It seems the definition of "Gregging" something might need to be expanded?
    • This is why I suggested that there is really nothing that can safely be done in the engine bay at this budget level. Just the work to reassure yourself that the engine won't instantly crap itself the moment the boost gets turned up will wear out the piggy bank long before the first turbo gets installed. Spend $10k and still not have any extra performance? My tip is a version of our standard advice from 15 years ago about buying a GTR, which is not to buy one unless you can afford to buy two. The new version is not to modify a GTR unless you have all the funds required to do it all at once, properly, and enough to rebuild it after it blows up.
    • Oh, I forgot to mention this before.  It is accepted that your taking on risk buy turning up the power on a 30 year old stock motor. You can lower the risk with the ECU engine protection, but this is more money on sensors. CAN wideband, oil temp, oil pressure, coolant pressure, fuel pressure, air temp, etc. It adds up quick.  I am a huge fan of running all of the engine protection the ECU offers. You'll have to decide for yourself how you want the engine protection setup and what you think is worth monitoring. 
×
×
  • Create New...